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Posted

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I just broke my first model part out of frustration!

I was trying to glue the rearview mirror on a '69 Camaro windshield with superglue (I'm aware that it fogs, but mine doesn't seem to fog very bad at all). Somehow, two drops of glue got on the front! Then I snapped it in half...

Now I have to rob a windshield out of another 69 Camaro :rolleyes:

Posted

Your not alone. I have done the same thing myself. I found that my instant glue will not fog if I put a drop of insta set on the glue right away.

Posted

Another anti-fogging tip is don't use super glue on clear parts!

Why would you even risk it at all with so many other alternatives? The best way that I've found to glue a rear-view mirror onto the inside of a clear windshield is to put a tiny dab of good old Testors tube glue on the mirror's mounting surface and carefully set it in place. The tube glue is thick enough to hold the mirror in position as it dries, also it gives you the chance to adjust the position of the mirror, unlike super glue.

Posted

Another anti-fogging tip is don't use super glue on clear parts!

Why would you even risk it at all with so many other alternatives? The best way that I've found to glue a rear-view mirror onto the inside of a clear windshield is to put a tiny dab of good old Testors tube glue on the mirror's mounting surface and carefully set it in place. The tube glue is thick enough to hold the mirror in position as it dries, also it gives you the chance to adjust the position of the mirror, unlike super glue.

I had no choice...I don't have any tube glue, and I don't really have anything else that would work.

Posted

I had no choice...I don't have any tube glue, and I don't really have anything else that would work.

So... You have to go get another windshield? I'm thinking that effort could have been spent going to get a different adhesive instead.

Posted

You should be able to cut some clear styrene to fit. Mr Obsessive did a real good post on here as to the best way to fit windshields made of clear styrene.

Posted

Next time before you kill the model, :unsure: let the superglue set for a couple of hours, go have some refreshments and come back. Start sanding the glue with some 600, 800,1000, and so on until you hit it with some 2000. Get some bluemagic, (wheel polishing cream, the one thats blue colored) and start polishing, then hit it with Your best car polish and You got Yourself a new windshield. Worked for me.

Posted

I second the use of Future, I've saved some pretty nasty goofs (like a paint and glue covered thumbprint dead center of the windshield) with a squirt of Windex to strip the Future, so dipping all the clear parts in Future is usually one of my first steps. It also does a great job cleaning up small scratches.

Elmers glue also works well for clear parts. It is strong enough to hold parts in place, but will break free before a part breaks in case you need to take it apart. It is white making it easy to see where you are applying it, but dries clear, and can be cleaned up with water if it gets somewhere it doesn't belong.

Posted

So... You have to go get another windshield? I'm thinking that effort could have been spent going to get a different adhesive instead.

I don't have any instant access to any hobby supplies other than what I have...and that isn't very much :unsure:

Posted

So... You have to go get another windshield? I'm thinking that effort could have been spent going to get a different adhesive instead.

I'm with Mark on this one. He turned me on to Zap Formula 560 canopy glue. It is a white glue like Kristal Klear from MicroScale in that it dries clear. It is a lot tackier that Kristal Klear and any residue cleans up with water. You can get it anywhere that sells R/C aircraft stuff. Made my life a lot easier for this type of stuff. Thanks Mark!

Posted

I don't have any instant access to any hobby supplies other than what I have...and that isn't very much :unsure:

Sounds like you need to make a list, get online, and stock up on some basic supplies.

Posted

Ditto on the Formula 560 !! Bob Downie gave me a bottle of it at one of our paloozas and it's my go to now for any clear parts. Holds very strong, dries clear, and can be wiped off with a wet paper towel or kleenex before it dries. Heck it's even so strong that my son assembled a S27 resin Ferrari kit with nothing but it for the entire car !!! And it's still together ! Great product !! :D

Posted

I use superglue for most parts, Mr. Hobby for others, but I ALWAYS use a canopy glue for windows. Its simply not worth the risk to use superglue on windows because the windows are usually the last steps. Even Elmer's glue would work in a pinch.

Posted

I use 5 minute epoxy for things like that.

Posted

I'm with Mark on this one. He turned me on to Zap Formula 560 canopy glue. It is a white glue like Kristal Klear from MicroScale in that it dries clear. It is a lot tackier that Kristal Klear and any residue cleans up with water. You can get it anywhere that sells R/C aircraft stuff. Made my life a lot easier for this type of stuff. Thanks Mark!

I might have to try this stuff- I generally swear by Kristal Klear, but it doesn't hurt to try something new once in a while.

Posted

Andy, I was hot headed when I was your age. I regret looking back now at some of the stuff I've destroyed. Then again, I didn't have the internet back then as I do now to help me. Next time something like this happens brother, just walk away and if your not sure what to do or if it can be fixed, put a post up asking if anyone can help. You could of saved that windshield and tried again. I actually learned some things just by reading this thread myself.

Posted (edited)

I would have gone with 5-minute epoxy. If you get some where it shouldn't be, wait for partial cure, then peel it up with a toothpick.

As far as not having any hobby shop nearby, you must have a hardware store? Most adhesives I buy are at the hardware store. These are adult model cars you are building, not toys. Time to step up and stock up.

Edited by Jon Cole
Posted

I remember my dad, while in the midst of a frame-off restoration of a 1:1 '38 Ford Coupe, had sent out for faux woodgraining, the inside window framing and dashboard. Upon opening the completed parts after return shipping, accidentally put a small scratch on one of the window frames. So as not to be tempted to use it that way, he immediately stooped to the ground and dragged the part over the rough concrete driveway. My jaw dropped when I'd seen him do this, but after he explained why, it sort of made sense. I suspect your snapping of the windshield may have some of this thinking behind it. :D

Posted

I remember my dad, while in the midst of a frame-off restoration of a 1:1 '38 Ford Coupe, had sent out for faux woodgraining, the inside window framing and dashboard. Upon opening the completed parts after return shipping, accidentally put a small scratch on one of the window frames. So as not to be tempted to use it that way, he immediately stooped to the ground and dragged the part over the rough concrete driveway. My jaw dropped when I'd seen him do this, but after he explained why, it sort of made sense. I suspect your snapping of the windshield may have some of this thinking behind it. :D

That's hard core, but very educational.

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