decals

[retroguy]

I would like to make my own decals and would like info on decal paper and printer...

I currently have a hp deskjet 3600 series...

thanks

[Fat Brian]

I have used the Testors decal kit software and paper before, it works okay. I wouldn't recommend the Testors software, any photo editing software should do. This is a link for paint.net ( http://www.getpaint.net/ ), it's a free editing program that has pretty amazing functionality and is fairly easy to learn. The most diffficult part for me was knowing when there is enough of the protective spray on the sheet to keep the ink from running.

[TooOld]

Paint.net is definitely worth downloading if you don't have any editing program . It has a great selection of fonts and lots of special effects . I still use Windows Paint to make my decals the size I want , It just seems simpler to me .

I also use the Testors paper , mainly because my LHS carries it . It seems okay to me . A couple light coats of sealer is all that is needed ( after the ink dries ) .

[62rebel]

why not move this to "how do i".

[Austin T]

Going on the fonts,this place has some sweet fonts http://www.dafont.com/ I think almost all of them are free.

[CadillacPat]

I would like to make my own decals and would like info on decal paper and printer...

I currently have a hp deskjet 3600 series...

thanks

Retroguy I have been making Decals for DieCast Customizers for years.

There is a lot more involved besides type of Paper but I use paper from Papilio.com after trying everything out there.

The Decal Paper from Papilio.com has always been of a consistent quality.

http://www.texascraft.com/hps/home.php?cat=250

The Printer you have will be just fine.

Even simple InkJet Printers will turn out remarkably great results on Decal Paper if your images are of high resolution and you use the correct Printer Settings.

This reply only answers the 2 questions you submitted.

If you have more just ask.

CadillacPat

[sjordan2]

I might add that, as I've learned on this forum, it helps if you can make vector-based files that reduce to small sizes with minimal degradation in sharpness. I haven't gotten the hang of that yet.

[CadillacPat]

Vector is not so necessary at our scale sizes.

If you create or work with images of as high resolution as possible you will be just fine.

CadillacPat

[sjordan2]

Vector is not so necessary at our scale sizes.

If you create or work with images of as high resolution as possible you will be just fine.

CadillacPat

I think sharpness is more necessary at our small scale detail. According to the graphic designers and IT people at my ad agency, high resolution inkjet printing mostly just lays down more ink, not necessarily more detail.

One of the biggest questions is, how will you originate your decals? If you're using screen grabs from online images, you'll get fuzzy, raster pixel images. Here's the difference, and it doesn't matter if you set your printer on highest resolution.

Edited June 2, 2012 by sjordan2

[crazyjim]

Skipping the tech talk - after you print on the decal paper, I understand it has to be coated with a clear coat. What kind of clear - enamel, acrylic enamel, urethane?? What and how many coats? Thick? Thin?

[roadhawg]

name='crazyjim' timestamp='1338673616' post='707413']

Skipping the tech talk - after you print on the decal paper, I understand it has to be coated with a clear coat. What kind of clear - enamel, acrylic enamel, urethane?? What and how many coats? Thick? Thin?

This stuff: http://papilio.com/spray%20clear%20flexible%20decal%20fixative.html Unlike other clear coats (which you CAN use, if you want to), this stuff is made specifically for decals, will remain flexible when dry, and will not crack. I've also used Model Master clear lacquer. Inkjet ink is water soluble, so if you don't clear it with something, you'll have a mess on your hands.

[CadillacPat]

Skipping the tech talk - after you print on the decal paper, I understand it has to be coated with a clear coat. What kind of clear - enamel, acrylic enamel, urethane?? What and how many coats? Thick? Thin?

Sure Jim, don't let the Tech Talk sound intimidating.

Decals are very easy to make, you just have to follow some steps for great results.

Jim you always want to spray your sealer coat (for printed Decals) as thin as possible.

Just enough sealant to create a barrier to protect the Decal ink when it is slipped into water.

More sealant in thick layers would make the Decal more difficult to conform to compound curves.

It's not such a big deal on a flat surface like the hood or the roof, but too much sealnt will make the eges of the Decal more prominent.

A thinly sealed Decal when applied properly sees its edges disappear once the final Clearcoat is airbrushed onto the model.

Here's a copy of part of my Decal Tutorials I have up on the Net titled Decal Fixative Alternative

“Decal Fixative Alternative”

For coating my Decal sheets as they emerge from the printer I've tried lots of products with good to excellent results.

I started out using cheap Painters Place Enamel #20014 in the aerosol can from the spray paint department at WalMart.

It wasn't bad and only cost 90 cents.

Then I used Duplicolor Clear Lacquer DAL #1695 also in an 11 oz. aerosol can from AutoZone.

This was a better product that dried much quicker and thinner for $4.59.

Recently, for a little over a year I've used DEFT Clear Gloss Varnish in the 11 oz. aerosol can in the Paint Stain Dept at Walmart, about $5.

By far, until now this has been the best and makes the edges of the Decals disappear after final ClearCoat.

However, tonight I tried House Of Kolor InterCoat Clear.

InterCoat Clear is a product used to protect your art as you lay down progressive layers.

It's used to coat an existing layer so it can be taped off without fear of raising the paint.

It's also used as a carrier to lay transparent colors or pearl powders over basecoats.

Well the results are fantastic.

One 1/4 oz. AirBrush cup filled 2/3 way with a 50-50 mix of InterCoat Clear and RU311 Reducer is enough to coat a full page of Decals.

It dries to an almost negligible thickness in a matter of minutes.

With this InterCoat Clear the edges of the Decals disappear as they are laid down.

The extra control of applying the InterCoat Clear through your AirBrush instead of blasting some other product out of an aerosol can gives you the ability to lay down just the barest minimum needed to seal the ink on the Decals.

The Decal film remains just as thin and pliable as if there was no coating at all.

Nothing is wrong with the DEFT but this InterCoat Clear is giving far better results.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--

[CadillacPat]

I think sharpness is more necessary at our small scale detail. According to the graphic designers and IT people at my ad agency, high resolution inkjet printing mostly just lays down more ink, not necessarily more detail.

Jordan, You always begin your image work with High Resolution, you don't wait till it comes time to print and then try to boost clarity with Printer Settings. That won't get you anywhere.

Begin with Sharpness, keep your resolution as high as possible, I use 600 dpi,

You begin with large high resolution images and then shrink down if you have to, not up, that is how you get something like the picture you show on the left.

Think about it, you want as much Ink to lay down on that Decal paper as possible.

This is why you always print at "Best" settings.

Grainy greyed out images are not the goal here.

I would ask those Ad Agency people you know if they have ever designed, created, printed, applied and then ClearCoated over Decals for scale Models.

One of the biggest questions is, how will you originate your decals? If you're using screen grabs from online images, you'll get fuzzy, raster pixel images. Here's the difference, and it doesn't matter if you set your printer on highest resolution.

Jordan you don't have to use grainy low resolution images grabbed from the Net, Why do it.

If you must use an image from the Internet you can always clean it up and enhance it in PhotoShop or other Image Editors.

Grab the image, size it, increase it's resolution, enhance it by colorizing or whatever else it needs then print it.

There is no reason why any image you use should look like the VS image on the left.

If you want to work in Vector that's fine but it is by no means necessary at our scale.

Now, when you create your image completely from scratch you simply begin with 600 dpi resolution.

CadillacPat

[blueoval92]

is there a tutorial video of how to make decals for models anywhere. they have youtube and other sites with video blocked at this camp ground to keep people from hogging the bandwidth so i cant look for it for another 3 days.

Edited August 31, 2012 by blueoval92