blueoval92

woke up this morning to the sight of my 66 mustang ive been trying to get titled for almost 4 months sitting on a trailer in my front yard and my dad handing me a newly issued title. time to get on the tools!!!

buddy of mine has an 05 duramax with a ppe programer and lift pump with 14" stack out the bed, thing blows clouds at idle.

i so want this truck, nothing rolls coal like an old cummins

got it off with oven cleaner. it didnt break it up like other things ive stripped instead it like ate the primer and left the paint intact in one big sheet that just slid right off. was pretty cool actually. thanks for the help.

i went to my local pep boys today because a friend of mine who works there was telling me about how they now have a large performance section now. I must say its pretty impressive for around here because nobody nearby has an in store selection like they have. they have Nos tanks and pluming for it, weind intakes, edelbrock cams, holley and edelbrock carbs, carb tuning parts and kits, water pumps, ingition parts and boxes, pretty good seletion of arp bolt kits and its all right on the shelves. i also noticed while looking around they had a end display full of revelle streetburner series models and a few snaptites. I was just wondering if anybody knows more about this. not that i plan to start buying from them, it just kind of caught me off guard so to speak.

here is my problem. i have a body i have been trying to strip for 3 weeks now. i painted it with duplicolor copper plate system and have tried everything i can think of short of brake fluid or sanding. It has sat in a purple pond, La's totaly awesome, simple green, and such. it barely flaked it on the edges where it was thinnest but nothing more than that. Does anybody have any suggestions i can try. I was told brake fluid works very very well but can harm the plastic on some models so i would like to stay away from that if possible.

like i said i do it out of habit, ive never had trouble with this until now and i usually allow about a day for all primer to dry before i spray and color. final grade of sanding is 3k and i never use rougher than 800. i checked it a couple hours ago and was able to peel off some paint from the area that messed up, the plastic is smooth as can be, the primer is what messed up. gonna let it soak some more over night and scrub it down and try again.

its the amt 3 in 1 1925 model t kit.

i use the sealer because i find it gives a little more gloss to the paint, and its how i have always painted other things so i do it out of habit, have never had trouble until now. the reason i have to strip the whole body is because of the paint im using, its duplicolor's copper plate system and the way i sprayed it makes it very difficult to repaint just the roof and make it all match with the way i faded the rest of the body. the body was already painted and i was about to spray the clear when i noticed the imperfection.

another one is Lokar tv, i dont know what channel it is but the two old guys on it have a nice shop.

horsepower tv has a pretty cool shop in my opinion. also the show counting cars has a pretty nice shop in some shots.

I have never had this trouble before but on my current project i sprayed my usual duplicolor primer and a coat of filler primer to fill any pin holes then sealed it with primer sealer. have done this on all plastics i have ever painted even my model cars and all the primers are from duplicolor. I sprayed my paint and let it cure for the past 3 days and just looked at it tonight and i had what looked like file marks on the roof, i sanded the roof down to the primer and it looks like someone took a small rasp and passed it in a small spot. i sanded a little more to the plastic and its smooth as can be. was only in one spot but i have to strip the whole body. has anybody ever had this problem?

how about these: BDR 529 86-523 2z77767

so im very displeased with alclad 2 microfill primer. decided to try some alclad i bought a while back and wanted to use their primer, it clogged my airbrush and what did spray out before the clog was not very good, it dried almost as fast as it came out and was like a powder on the parts that just rubbed right off. I know my brush was clean because i cleaned it a couple hours ago very thoroughly, i think i will stick to my normal primer instead. got the body and floor pan painted with the copper plate system, im pretty pleased with the results. its not even but gives more of a kinda weathered look, will try taking pics with a different camera and try to post them later. it really is something to see, its a way different copper than anything i have seen from testors or model master or tamiya.

so still no luck with pics, wish i knew why. I got the frame painted, couple engine parts painted, and have started spraying on the copper, kinda tricky to get to lay down even, i guess its the kind of paint. but 1st coat is looking good, about 4 more to get it to the shade i want.

got the parts all primed and started stripping a few chrome parts. engine halves glued and intake is painted, should have the frame and rest of engine parts painted tonight and get the firewall glued to the body. may even paint some interior if i have time. for some reason my computer changed the format of my pics and i cant upload them. will work on it and post some pics if i am able.

anything bearing the dodge or chrysler name, the ford maverick and pinto and mustang II, VW G60, hummers (except the real ones), mid 70's and up chevy el camino, chevy monza, i think thats a pretty good list.

well its been a while since ive been able to get to my bench, and sadly i have loss some interest in my current builds so hoping to renew that interest i caught a idea while walking around in pepboy's today. I came across duplicolors copper plate system and decided to try it on the AMT 1925 model t 3 in 1 kit i picked up at my local hobby shop. plan to basically do a out of box build. the goal is to K.I.S.S. and just make a clean build. Doing the spoon test right now to see how the copper plate system will work then i will start priming pieces later tonight hopefully. if this doesnt work i guess ill be ordering some BMF copper sheets.

ive used it on sale items before, they never once told me anything.

i just stripped some parts i painted with model master black, i used LA's totally awesome,, i let it sit for about 48 hours and it stripped it paint, primer and all.

i have thought about making my own frame but dont really want to. if all i have to do is make some wider cross members then i will be very happy. i may even Z the frame so i can get away with a less aggressive channel on the body.

well im getting the body on trade from a member here and i do not know who the caster of the body is. as far as the style i want to build it will be a radical channeled and chopped body, straight axle rear, drop spindle front, raked front grill, no hood with custom support rods running from radiator back to firewall. Im going for a super custom build, no where near stock. This is a crazy idea ive had in my mind for some time now and cant wait to see what it could look like. I think ill look into the kit fat brian mentioned as well as the 5 window devil face kit because ive read that it has a few sets of wheels and tires and a couple engines all in the kit. I will probably end up buying 3 kits just to build one car lol, cant put a price on a dream i guess.

would that happen to be the 2 in 1 kit with the devil face on the grill?

I was wondering what would be a good donor kit for a 32 ford tudor sedan resin body. Im looking for a good detailed chassis and possibly interior. more so the dash.