Scuderia Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 I'll definitely be following this, as I too want to cast a motor or at least a block/trans
george 53 Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 GREAT shot for your first attempt,LoLo! Is that the supercharged Z-06 Vette engine? Looks GREAT,Bro!!!
91blaze Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 GREAT shot for your first attempt,LoLo! Is that the supercharged Z-06 Vette engine? Looks GREAT,Bro!!! Looks like the supercharged LS7 from the Corvette ZR1. I plan on casting parts once I get some money, so I'm gonna be watching this. Good job so far.
Lownslow Posted July 4, 2012 Author Posted July 4, 2012 Hey Frank - what kind of clay are you using? moldeling clay, non sulphur kind. i think delmiliano was the brand. not sure on that. i stick it in the dehydrator for 10 minutes it makes it really easy to work with when its warm.
crazyjim Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 (edited) I got a cheap stuff somewhere - it's blue and seems to be identical to the Aluminite clay. Pain in the butt to clean off. I think somebody needs to invent a clay that can be easily removed with water. Good looking parts you're doing. Edited July 4, 2012 by crazyjim
Lownslow Posted July 4, 2012 Author Posted July 4, 2012 I got a cheap stuff somewhere - it's blue and seems to be identical to the Aluminite clay. Pain in the butt to clean off. I think somebody needs to invent a clay that can be easily removed with water. Good looking parts you're doing. i heard alcohol works good. i went with this stuff because the alumilite stuff was too problematic is a really cheap grade plasticine
Patrick2005 Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 I would definately take at least 2 of these when they are done!!
Lownslow Posted July 5, 2012 Author Posted July 5, 2012 motor is getting dressed should be able to pour them tomorrow heres the problem i was having before do i pour the mold for the block standing or upsidedown?
Greg Wann Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 Alumilites clay is repackaged Klean Klay. It is the best deal on the net. Some sites want 8 plus dollars for a pound of it.
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 Looks like you're well on your way to having some parts. What's the gooey blue stuff in your mold boxes, on your plugs? Some kind of mold release? Just a helpful FYI: I've posted this several times in the past, but here is a link to over 3 hours of FREE instructional videos on making molds and parts the right way. It is presented by a company that makes tools and supplies for industry. The information is correct, not opinion, and will potentially save anyone wanting to make parts from molds MUCH wasted time doing trial-and-error, and alow you to turn out first-rate parts consistently. I have NO afilliation with this company, other than as an ocassional customer, but their products and videos are 100%, and they know what they're talikng about. I really recommend anyone wanting to make parts from resin to look at the offerings here. http://www.freemansupply.com/video.htm
1930fordpickup Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 At my last job they orders from them often . They would send a truck on a route not shipped ups. Just pointing out that they have been doing this a long time , they are just smaller now than they used to be. They may be pricey but you will get a good product.
Lownslow Posted July 7, 2012 Author Posted July 7, 2012 my resin went bad but for the most part its done
mikemodeler Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 That came out really well Frank, nice job! Out of curiousity, how much resin did that take? I ask only because with the price of kits climbing, it gets harder to justify buying a kit for parts (engine, wheels, etc.) if you can resin cast copies cheaply.
Lownslow Posted July 7, 2012 Author Posted July 7, 2012 That came out really well Frank, nice job! Out of curiousity, how much resin did that take? I ask only because with the price of kits climbing, it gets harder to justify buying a kit for parts (engine, wheels, etc.) if you can resin cast copies cheaply. shotglass full. if youre going to go that route start up gets really expensive at least 80 in materials.
Art Anderson Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 I got a cheap stuff somewhere - it's blue and seems to be identical to the Aluminite clay. Pain in the butt to clean off. I think somebody needs to invent a clay that can be easily removed with water. Good looking parts you're doing. Amaco X-11 moist pottery clay works beautifully, and cleans up with water. Art
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 8, 2012 Posted July 8, 2012 Art Anderson: "Amaco X-11 moist pottery clay works beautifully, and cleans up with water." Thank you sir. Great to know.
edboys Posted July 10, 2012 Posted July 10, 2012 Great job and welcome to the wonderful world of casting. I wanted to share a couple of tips if you don't mind. Your use of clay is common practice and once you have submerged your parts halfway into the clay, press the clay tight around the part so that there is no gap or space between the clay and part. This will keep the chance for a seam line to a minimum. Also, use the end of small paint brush to press hemispherical indents into the clay before you pour your RTV. These indents will serve as mold alignment aids helping to hold the two mold halves in place while casting. Well, provided that you are doing 2-piece molds? One more thing is that you have the opportunity to break the parts down into sub-assemblies. The pulleys can now be separated from the belt before molding. The heads as well as the pan can be done as individual parts too. Here's a pic of the Chrysler 392 I do in 1/16th scale and you can see the number of parts that are separate pieces. Again, welcome to parts replication and have a great modeling adventure doing this.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now