a word of caution about the Revell Z06 kit

[gasman]

I went to paint the interior today, just everyday Tamiya semi flat black laquer, but when I painted it, the paint crazed big time, I know Revell's new plastic has some issue's but this is the first time i've ever had this issue using Tamiya paint. so now its sitting in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to get the crazed paint off, then i'll airbrush it Tamiya Acrylic. so I don't have this issue again.

[ismaelg]

Hello,

Sorry to hear that. I should have said so before. The new palstic Revell is using is VERY sensitive and soft. Not only the Z06 but also the original C6, and I've been told that the Viper and new Mustangs as well. The new plastic will craze even with metalizers heavily applied. I found that even Duplicolor primer crazed the plastic. I use Testors hobby enamels for interiors and details, and they work fine. For bodies, since I use real lacquer, Moon Mud Primer from Cobra Colors works great. I've also used Plastikote T235 primer on it without problems, but for some reason Plastikote vanished from the face of the earth, at least here.

Of course acrylics are safe on anything, but not UNDER anything.

Don't dispair. I had some crazing while doing my C6 coupes and stripping and a light sanding fixed it.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,

Ismael

[Zoom Zoom]

If you are just going to repaint it w/acrylic in the same color, stripping the paint won't get rid of the visible damage; that's the plastic not the paint. The Tamiya acrylic will look like the TS spray because the surface isn't smooth.

I'd carefully sand those areas and then refinish, the acrylic isn't going to fill in any appreciable detail.

Tamiya gray primer would probably seal the surface well enough for Tamiya sprays. I didn't have any problems w/the Tamiya red I used on the seats/floor of my Viper Venom, nor the black that I used on the rest of the interior.

Sad that Revell has ignored the problem. I had hoped by now they would have reacted.

Ismael, you can get PK primer at Michael's craft stores here in the states; not sure about PR.

[gasman]

I already now I have to sand it, most of the crazing is in the interior bucket. and where you not going to see it on the finished model. the rest looks good so I may just sand it down and repaint. and not strip the whole thing

[MrObsessive]

Interesting info............

I wonder if since I use acrylic enamels if I'll have the same problem??:shock: I normally use Krylon or Rustoleum sandable automotive primer as a base...........I may have to do a test first to see. I'm going to ask my paint place if they can mix what would normally be offered in a "lacquer"........... to be mixed in an acrylic enamel instead.

[MonoPed]

I shot Tamiya yellow on my '06 Mustang, no primer, no problems. But the Plastikote pewter grey crazed the interior pieces quite a bit. If in doubt with this new plastic, test, test, test!

Brian

[Wildrice]

I primered my 06 Mustang with Duplicolor and no problems. I did notice that the plastic is way softer.

[Schumacher330]

I primed the Matt Kenseth kit with platikote and crazed crazed crazed.

[Ron Hamilton]

I used Plasticote Gray Primer, and I have had no crazing problems. I am almost afraid to apply paint at this point. I have painted the '66 Chevelle wagon in Lacquer (Model Car World), over Plasticote primer, and had no problem. I'm going to write and publish a review on the Cadillac kit on this forum in a few days.

[Steve D.]

The newly released version with the slick Cartograph decals . It is made out of new soft plastic and will craze when Tamiya Lacquer is sprayed on directly , that is , without priming first . ( I have sprayed TL on many bodies without priming first , so this is the first time it has happened to me . ) If you use the Tamiya primer , either white or gray , and dust on three or four light coats , crazing should not be a problem .

Having built three of these kits , I know Plasticote primer and Tamiya lacquer ( unprimed ) are too hot for this plastic . I'm not sure about the new Model Master lacquer , as I have yet to use it .

I just wanted to give everyone a heads - up about this particular kit and its soft plastic .

Take care and see you around the clubhouse ,

Steve D.

[Steve H.]

The only experience I've had, so far, with Revell's new plastic is the Mustang. I had the hood to experiment with (used a resin hood) and shot it with Duplicolor scratch filling primer, Tamiya white primer and Testors lacquer primer... No crazing! I shot Testors lacquer GTS Blue pearl over that... No crazing! I even shot some tamiya light gunmetal on bare plastic... No crazing!

The one common point I see with people who haven't had crazing is mist coats. As light as possible, regardless of how many passes you have to make, letting it flash cure between passes.

Just my experience...

[Jeff Johnston]

I had this problem with 2 new mustangs and the 66 Mustang. Duplicolor primer and duplicolor spray to start...then tried nail polish.

Then tried plastikote touch ups...crazing driving me crazy...

Then I used testors lacquer on one of the mustangs and I got it...the other I sprayed very light coats of duplicolor...wet sanded in between. Finally worked. On the last Mustang (the 66), I used Kustom Kolors lacquer with no problem. (this after at least 4 attempts with Duplicolor)

I will also say that I recently purchased and painted a recently released Revell 67 Chevelle. I used MCW Laquer and urethane clear.... and..... had no issues at all. No crazing, no issues.

So I am hoping this was a result of improved styrene...because I literally painted the other kits the same as I always have...lets hope this is the styrene and not luck LOL