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Fairmont drag car build - Hanging/hinging DS door 8/10/16


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Thanks Jason! I spent a lot of time modifying an AMT Boss 302 block to convert it into a 351C-inspired block. I added the extended timing chain housing, water jacket plugs, scallop around where the distributor goes. I also added the cut-out around the fuel pump block off plate and reshaped the intake manifold mounting surface to look like the Cleveland intake. Also added a bunch of detail to the ends of the cylinder heads. As you'll see (if you haven't already), I've also got scratch-built Moroso valve covers for it... I'm trying to decide how I want to finish a set for this build...

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Thanks, as always, for looking in Tyrone. I ended up making the extension tubes out of .042" OD stainless tubing and am adding RBM nuts to the end of them to simulate part of the fittings. They'll slip fit over some .033" tubing that's inserted into the pan. My RBM hose ends can then slide right into the extension tubes and be really secure. Hopefully I'll have pics up of that before too much longer...

Thank you, Robert. Feel free to look through the thread. There have been some stops and starts, burps, etc., along the way, but I'm making progress - albeit it slow...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Remind me never to jump the gun and glue things together that shouldn't be... LOL It was a real pain to modify the dry sump on my engine with the pan attached. I finally accomplished it, but it would have gone faster and looked a bit better if I'd exercised a bit more wisdom. Anyway, here are the progress pics with the extended sump and pickup tubs attached.

oilpanpassside_zps35d97e66.jpg

oilpandrivside_zps88cdf28c.jpg

I also made a bit of progress on getting racing harness mounting tabs and set braces added to the chassis.

harnesstabs1_zps74eca831.jpg

harnesstabs_zps9172d079.jpg

I also got started on the wheelie bars. I'm using one of my sets of PE wheel housings. I'm using RBMotion #1504 rod ends for the upper links and some way or other drilled out the eye on two of them and added stainless steel sleeves to size the hole down to .020". There isn't enough material around the housing hole to go any larger than that. The rod is .050" Plastruct. The #1504 rod ends have a .033" shank, so I made a fixture out of stainless steel tubing so I could drill centered holes in the rod. Holes are approximately .050" deep so the rod ends will have decent engagement inside the rods. The upper bars must be bent slightly so they'll clear the underside of the chassis. I haven't gotten that far yet.

wheeliebars2_zps1e0d9f39.jpg

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Stan - Thanks bud!

I appreciate it, Jason. You do some really nice work yourself!

There's more coming, so hang onto that jaw... LOL

Thanks so much Clay. I work at the speed of a glacier - maybe slower - so I guess I better be patient! haha

Chris - yes, we both have sort of a penchant for the detail, don't we. It can be a blessing and a curse. I can't wait to get some new photo etch in. I've got a handful of motor plates geared toward fitting this chassis and engine combo, including a dry mount pump mounting provision on the bottom of the plate. I'm very curious how all that will fit together.

Thanks much, HÃ¥kan.

I appreciate it, Ira.

Tyrone - Sorry bud. I didn't mean to mess things up for you. LOL

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Scott... you couldn't be more correct about it being a blessing and acurse focusing on these little details. Don't stop what you are doing, I have no doubts that you will be able to execute everything the way you want to. I know you have a vision in your mind hoe you want this to turn out and I know you will be able to achieve it. I am the same way and feel i have been in a slump with my funny car the past few weeks. I need to get back to the bench and get that fire back. I am looking forward to seeing you get the new photo-etch. I am sure it will fit and look great. Keep up the encouraging work here.

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