zaina Posted October 21, 2012 Author Posted October 21, 2012 Not sure how I'm going to do the rear yet. Couple of ideas but not sure if it would work like this 1:1. Here are a couple of pix. There will also be coil overs. All you experts out there please let me know if this would work. Thanks
Modelbuilder Mark Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 what did you use for the airboags? I mad mine frim Milliput, but di not like them. I was thinking of trying to locate some "O" rings the right size.
Bartster Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) Depending on how committed to the Caddy mill you are, you might check out Crazyjim's Nail head. l've used a couple & they're Very nice! Bart. BTW, l like what's happening here, which is why l'm suggesting the Nail Headi Edited October 21, 2012 by Bartster
mrm Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 Not sure how I'm going to do the rear yet. Couple of ideas but not sure if it would work like this 1:1. Here are a couple of pix. There will also be coil overs. All you experts out there please let me know if this would work. Thanks The short answer to your question would be NO. However, it can be made to work. On this frame the floor is molded in, so you can't see it, but that chassis would most likely have one more cross member right where the floor "steps up". If you make this cross member visible, you can then make two more links, which would go from the top of the diff to that cross member. They would have to go in a triangular fashion to prevent lateral movement of the axle. Pretty much imagine a "V" starting on top of the diff case and spreading out towards the cross member. I hope this helps. Michael
IHSS Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 Not sure how I'm going to do the rear yet. Couple of ideas but not sure if it would work like this 1:1. Here are a couple of pix. There will also be coil overs. All you experts out there please let me know if this would work. Thanks In 1:1 you would need at least one bar coming off the top of the diff. to keep the axle housing from rotating backwards. And you would also need a panard bar to keep the axle centered under the car. There are a couple of different ways you could set it up parralel four link with panard bar or a triagulated four link would be another option and wouldn't need the panard bar. Hope this helps and it looking good so far. Jeff
southpier Posted October 22, 2012 Posted October 22, 2012 i think you want a trapezoid not a rectangle
mrm Posted October 28, 2012 Posted October 28, 2012 Got the four link done today Very cool and clean. That's exactly what I was talking about.
vintagedragfan Posted October 28, 2012 Posted October 28, 2012 thats good stuff Andy!, very nice bro!! you need to barrow a car that gets 40 mpg and come on down for the show next weekend!!!
1930fordpickup Posted October 28, 2012 Posted October 28, 2012 Looking like a nice rod is in the works !
Modelbuilder Mark Posted October 29, 2012 Posted October 29, 2012 Got the four link done today Are you using little "o" rings for the aibags?
zaina Posted October 30, 2012 Author Posted October 30, 2012 Thanks guys. The bags are made from rings
Mr Dedo Posted October 30, 2012 Posted October 30, 2012 yea, have to agree with everyone else, this is going to be one sweet ride
Modelbuilder Mark Posted October 31, 2012 Posted October 31, 2012 I checked out some more of your builds over at Photobucket. I have to ask, where did you get the Hubbard Engineering decals? I would LOVE to get some of those.
Jantrix Posted October 31, 2012 Posted October 31, 2012 I checked out some more of your builds over at Photobucket. I have to ask, where did you get the Hubbard Engineering decals? I would LOVE to get some of those. They are from the AMT '37 Chevy Coupe kit.
Modelbuilder Mark Posted October 31, 2012 Posted October 31, 2012 They are from the AMT '37 Chevy Coupe kit. Thanks!
Guest G Holding Posted November 1, 2012 Posted November 1, 2012 loving this one. Are you going to section or chop the grill ?
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now