25 Ford Model-T Tow Truck - update: 05/11/13

[vintagedragfan]

aahh, it looks great Alyn, are you using any period correct reference pics for the wrecker unit or just making it look the way you want?? either way it looks great buddy!

[Mr Dedo]

Thanks for showing another method of building hinges.

The simplicity is refreshing.

[Alyn]

Charlie, I noticed that too. Seems like a lot of themes come in waves around here. It's good for keeping the ideas flowing. My wrecker boom is primarily Plastruct and Evergreen rod stock, with a bit of brass and aluminum thrown in.for some cross shafts. The main ring gear is nylon, I assume. I'm a little concerned that the nylon won't hold on to paint very well, but we'll see.

Thanks,Bill. I grabbed about a dozen reference pics off the internet and liked features from several of them, so this will be a miss-mash of those elements. I've considered branding it a "Weaver", but that's still up in the air.

Glad you like the hinges, Jeff. I've done hinges in at least 4 completely different styles and have considered doing a tutorial showing each. I just haven't had the time to put something together.

Here's an update on the most recent work on the wrecker boom. I"ve added the winch drum and gears, plus some miscellaneous details. After the boom bracing, crank and pulley system is figured out, the wrecker boom will be done.

[Danno]

Looks great!

[Dr. Cranky]

Beautiful work, keep it going.

[ScaleModelAddict]

That is sweet!

[southpier]

PVC tires .... cut them on a chop saw? lathe? resize the tube to fit the wheel, or just got lucky? could you please elaborate?

[Alyn]

thank you all for your interest and great comments.

Joe, I cut off a small section of PVC with a hacksaw and then trued up the cut in my micro lathe. While in the lathe, the PVC deeply scored to set the width of the tire. I finished cutting through the PVC with a razor saw and then cleaned up the cut with sandpaper. The edges of the tire were then rounded over with sandpaper as well. To finish it up, black Plasticoat primer was used for color (the PVC is white).

I did get lucky with the size. The PVC fit perfectly around the center ridge of kit wheel. Because of the center ridge design, there is a gap on either side of the wheel than I plan on filling with an aluminum band.

Edited November 25, 2012 by Alyn

[Custom Mike]

Beautiful work on the axle and boom Alyn, and the rest looks equally good! You never cease to amaze me with the detail in your builds, you are gonna make this one actually run, right? LOL

[Alyn]

Beautiful work on the axle and boom Alyn, and the rest looks equally good! You never cease to amaze me with the detail in your builds, you are gonna make this one actually run, right? LOL

Thanks a lot, Mike. I always appreciate you checking in.

Like all my models, this one is built to run, although I remove all internal moving parts and fill the engine block with Squadron putty as a theft deterrent.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Beautiful work.

[vintagedragfan]

the winch looks great Alyn! these old winch's used a chain rather than a cable if I'm not mistaken, is that correct! what are you planning to use? coming along just beautiful as all ways!

[crazyrichard]

that looks great !!! awsome building

[Alyn]

Thanks, Bill, and Bill, and Bill/Richard. I appreciate your interest and opinions.

Bill, the research photos I've gathered are almost evenly split between chain, cable and heavy rope. I agree with you though, that chain is likely the most accurate option. My decision was really based on whether or not I had enough small chain to provide the necessary wraps around the winch drum. Luckily, I had several feet, so chain it is.

Here's a shot of the end of the boom. A brass pin goes across the slot to support the pulley assembly. I added some small bosses on each side for added support.

I turned a pulley out of 1/4" aluminum rod. This is mounted in a brass yoke that is soldered to a brass ring. The brass pin in the previous picture supports the ring. This piece will require a fair amount of filing and shaping before it's ready for primer.

Here's the completed boom. Ive added the pulley & chain, boom supports and winch crank handle since the last update. The handle slides through the shaft and can be extended to provide added leverage for heavy loads. Bolts will be added to the holes in the base rails after paint.

The boom support rods bolt to a cross piece that can be adjusted via the 00-90 bolt and nut. By adjusting the nut, the boom can be raised or lowered roughly an inch (24" in scale) in the up or down direction.

And, here's the completed boom mocked up again in the truck bed, ready for primer and final clean up. The chain is temporary and will be replaced with the longer piece to allow several layers of wrap on the winch drum. Once I clean it up, a white metal tow hook will attach to the end of the chain.

Edited December 9, 2012 by Alyn

[dimebolt]

Looking really good so far Alyn.

Keep up the good work.

Corey

[Custom Mike]

Alyn, that working boom is great! Now you've raised the bar another dozen or so notches, thanks buddy!

[crazyrichard]

awsome boom , really something !!!!

[John Teresi]

Alyn......."WOW"........that boom is cool .......the build is AWESOME!!!!!!!!

[vintagedragfan]

looks like its about ready to do some repo's Alyn!! boom and winch turned out super cool!, of coarse I will expect a full demonstration when I get to see it awesome work buddy!

[Alyn]

Thanks, Corey. Just trying to keep up with you other truckers. (did I pronouce that right?)

Mike, you can find working wrecker booms on $ 1.99 push toys, so I think the bar's already been set. That and that georgous pickup bed you're building.

Richard, John; always appreciate your opinions. Thanks for checking in.

Bill, the whole thing is fully functional, with the exception that I may not bond the small gear to the crank shaft. Therefore, when the crank is turned, the gear doesn't move. A slight crimp in the shaft to cause a force fit, and a drop of CA would do the trick, but I figure that if I glue it to complete the functionality, idle hands may think they have the need to "see if it really works" more often than I'd like. I'll let you pretend that you're sitting behind the wheel though.

Edited January 21, 2013 by Alyn

[vintagedragfan]

I can't imagine some one would touch a model with out permission Alyn! lol

[Psychographic]

Nice work.

As for your nylon gear, you could try dying it with fabric dye.

[Alyn]

Nice work.

As for your nylon gear, you could try dying it with fabric dye.

OK Dave, I just happened to have some matte ebony fabric dye, so I slapped a coat on the main drum with a toothpick. Tomorrow I'll give it a scrape to see how durable it is. Your reputation as a master painter is on the line

Here's some of the fun I've been having over the last few days.

I added brackets on the body to support the top bows, and also a couple of loops on the rear of the tub to tie down the top straps. Both are made from brass.

Here's the top bows made from 1/16" and 3/64" round brass rod. I tapered and flattened the ends where the holes are drilled. The main bow has a notch on each side with a small piece of flat brass soldered in place. This allows an attachment point for the smaller bow.

bows temporarily attached to the tub with straight pins. Some tiny brass brads will serve as the permanent hinge pins later on. Hopefully, they'll work like rivets.

and here with the bows in the up position

I permanently glued the windshield frame to the tub to aid in building the top bows. A lot of trial and error to get the brass into the right shape.

For something a little different, I decided to cut off the rear and corner/side panels of the top. The one on the right will be used.

Here's where it sits at the moment. When done, there will be a strap on each side of the rear, extending from the top of the main bow down to the brass loops on the rear of the tub.

Edited December 15, 2012 by Alyn

[Randy D]

Hi Alyn, That top is just a great piece of craftmanship. Heck, the whole build is!!!!

Randy

[Psychographic]

To properly dye a part you need to soak it in the dye for about 24 hours. Most dyes require you to heat the dye in a pot and add the parts. The heated dye works much faster, about 20 minutes or so IIRC.

The thought of dropping a part in boiling water is a bit scary, "Surely it will warp" we thought back in the old days of racing RC cars. If it is nylon, it should take the dye no problem.

Edited December 15, 2012 by Psychographic