Pete J. Posted December 12, 2013 Posted December 12, 2013 I really appreciate the precision of your work Mark. It takes more skill than most model builders realize to get all these parts to fit correctly.
Scale-Master Posted December 12, 2013 Author Posted December 12, 2013 Thanks Pete and Art. No one to blame if it don't fit... You can see it in person tomorrow evening...
Skypower Posted December 12, 2013 Posted December 12, 2013 Super cool build I love those cars. My stepdad has one we sure have fun with it at track days and autocross stuff.
Chas SCR Posted December 13, 2013 Posted December 13, 2013 Very nice work Mark, Here is my first try at making A arms in brass
Mooneyzs Posted December 13, 2013 Posted December 13, 2013 Mark... this is some awesome building going on here. Everything is looking killer!!
Scale-Master Posted December 13, 2013 Author Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) Thanks Chris. The front sway bar and the stabilizer links (including the bushings) are in the bag. Too many tiny parts I didn’t want to risk losing. Mostly brass with some machined aluminum for the nuts & bolts & washers and soft vinyl for the rubber bushings. I also added the tabs for the stabilizer links to the lower control arms. Edited December 13, 2013 by Scale-Master
Scale-Master Posted December 13, 2013 Author Posted December 13, 2013 I added the seat mounting rails to the frame. And I made the brackets for the seats. This is the left, hence the engraved “L”… The seats snap onto the rails and allow the seats slide.
cobraman Posted December 14, 2013 Posted December 14, 2013 Fantastic work to be sure. Compared to this my builds look like I built them with my feet !
Chas SCR Posted December 14, 2013 Posted December 14, 2013 I really want to thank you for pushing me into doing more brass work Mark, I just started doing some more on the lathe and mill and I really like it compare to aluminum and easyer to clean up. Oh ya it looks 100 times nicer when done.
Scale-Master Posted December 15, 2013 Author Posted December 15, 2013 The interior side panels are made from a perforated aluminum. They are just loosely set in the frame here.
Harry P. Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Did you photoetch that perforated aluminum yourself or is it a store-bought item? If aftermarket, I can see a lot of uses for that stuff.
Scale-Master Posted December 15, 2013 Author Posted December 15, 2013 Would you believe me if I said I machined it...? I think it is sold by The Campbell Line for model railroading. It came loose in a lot I bought of odds and ends of modeling supplies, but it was with some other Campbell materials. Interesting stuff to work with, very soft. Easy to file, easier to bend, not necessarily where you want it to bend.
Pete J. Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Since you can't solder it in place, are you going to machine some sheet metal screws? ;)
Scale-Master Posted December 15, 2013 Author Posted December 15, 2013 Since you can't solder it in place, are you going to machine some sheet metal screws? ;) They actually fit without any need for mechanical fixturing or adhesive when the seats and body panels are installed. Same for this piece... Beginning of upper under hood framework. Snaps in since it will mounted after the engine is built and installed.
Ace-Garageguy Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Really a treat watching this come together.
Pete J. Posted December 16, 2013 Posted December 16, 2013 That is some really nice engineering Mark. Looks like a nice tight fit. Sorry I missed it Friday. Got my final exam tomorrow and it promises to be a real bear!
Scale-Master Posted December 17, 2013 Author Posted December 17, 2013 Thanks Pete, I need to make sure it can be unbuilt, painted and rebuilt, so the extra time and effort will hopefully pay off in the final assembly. The foot wells are built. I was able to attach the passenger side to the transmission tunnel and still be able to snap it in and out of the frame easily. The driver’s side was a bit more work due to the provisions for the master cylinders and room for the pedals. It “loads” from the top and locks into part of the framework on the bottom of the car. This upper panel also locks in place.
Scale-Master Posted December 19, 2013 Author Posted December 19, 2013 Some of the principle elements of the pedals assembly and the drivers side foot well. I still need to make the faces of the pedals, but I have the geometry set up. The guide for the steering shaft is installed in the foot box too. I started making the frame support work for the steering shaft. The cowl fit and attachment points have been finalized and I started roughing out the dashboard. All of these parts are friction fit/snap together.
Scale-Master Posted December 20, 2013 Author Posted December 20, 2013 These are the U-joints for the steering shaft. Here is a dry fitting of them with the links of the shaft assembly. I still need to make pins for the cross-shafts
Harry P. Posted December 20, 2013 Posted December 20, 2013 Looks to me that if you're any bigger than a jockey you could never fit into this car.
BMX Addicts Posted December 20, 2013 Posted December 20, 2013 Beautiful work!!!... It has been a few months since I read this thread and is truly a work of art.
Scale-Master Posted December 22, 2013 Author Posted December 22, 2013 Looks to me that if you're any bigger than a jockey you could never fit into this car.Even people over six feet tall can fit just fine. Don't forget the drivers side has more leg room than the passenger side. Driveshaft is brass with aluminum bearing caps for the cross-shafts.
Scale-Master Posted December 22, 2013 Author Posted December 22, 2013 I added the weights and shot a coat of black on it.
Scale-Master Posted December 24, 2013 Author Posted December 24, 2013 The shifter boot was made by machining a mold from aluminum and casting it with the same pliable resin I used for the tires and other boots. The bezel was also machined from aluminum. It fits flush in the transmission tunnel.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now