Dad's chopped 40 Ford (few new pics 12/01/13)

[Modelbuilder Mark]

So far a very productive weekend

This will be a mild custom, inspired by a 1:1 car that my Dad built when he was in high school in vocational-tech classes in the mid to late 50's. My grandfather actually taught auto body and math, did not give my father anything in the way of money but did offer a lot of knowledge and support. The class worked on each other's cars, and of course had access to the school body shop, tools etc. While this will not be an exact replica, it will be as close as I can get based on what I discuss with my father as I progress.

This is after the chop and piecing it together, but before any "bondo". At this point, it is purely plastic, Tenax7, and some super glue. Behind the glass fit really nice, and there is almost no seem at all back there. I did add some additional styrene to the inner B-pillars for strength. So far, things are going well, this is my first chop on a 40 Ford.

That is our daughter's dog photo bombing there. These pics were taken with her cell phone, so the quality is not great, sorry. Future pictures should be better.

Edited December 1, 2013 by Modelbuilder Mark

[TFchronos]

Excellet job on the chop. it'll look nice when it's done.

[Draggon]

Nice flowing lines!

[Jantrix]

A '40 seems to me to be a tricky thing to chop. Either you get it right or it looks like hammered you-know-what. I think you got it right. Looking forward to more.

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Thanks guys. I was trying really hard to retain the drip rail, only to fnid out from my Dad today that they did remove his! LOL SO now I have to decide if I retain it, as I presonally like it, or take it off to more closely ressemble his.....hmm. What do you guys think?

[Gluhead]

Mark...sweet! You know how hard '40's are to get a good chop on. I think ya got it. Plus, hell...pops old car? Super cool.

I'm with you. I like drip rails. I think they look a goofy without them. But, they're easy to replace if you get rid of them for the sake of cannon and decide you can't stand it like that. Go for it!

[James2]

^^^^ Yeah I'm dig'n the chop myself! Can't wait to see more.^^^^

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Thanks guys.

The cut that you can not see well in these pictures because there is no filler between then is the back half of the rear/side windows.

After I cut the back half off the roof, I then cut a line ABOVE the drip rail following the curve and seperated what would be the top of the window frame.

Once that was seperate, I then cut the rear section in half (the smaller thin seem you see on the roof), I then mounted the now mid section "half" to the "b" pillars, and the trimmed part of the rear panel off and leaned the remaining section forward. I then took the top pieces of the window frames, trimmed the window openings, and fit them into place.

At this point, I am thinking I will retain the drip rail and see if I can maintain it. If is start to get beat up, then I will remove.

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Seems I failed to mention the chop is a 3 scale inch chop at the A and B pillars. After another conversation with my Dad today, I decided to remove the drip rail. So, I have some small amounts of putty and some filler primer on. Will have more pictures this weekend.

Dad said that he did have a Chevy 283 in it, with three dual carbs. Any ideas on which kit would offer a good source for these?

[Modelbuilder Mark]

FINALLY, got some more progress to post. Got the rough coat of primer on, just need to find all the little problems and clean then up.

Also, Dad sunk old juice cans into the rear fenders, and had lights set into them VS the factory taillights. These are just the starter holes after filling the void with the kit taillights.

Headlights molded in, a bit of additional filler primer in spots.

More pictures tomorrow night, I got more done but not uploaded.

[James2]

Patently waiting for more...

[crazyrichard]

hmm nice , conming from you i have high expectations

[DrKerry]

^{It's already been said but great job on the chop. Like the others have said the 40 roofline can be a task to do. It's not an easy one to chop and have it look right but you did it!!! Looks awesome!!!}

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Kerry and James, thanks guys! Richard, I really appreciate the compliment/challenge! LOL.

Well, I am having a time getting the next set of pictures off of my wife's phone (yeah, I know , I really need a digital camera, but the last one we had, my wife gave away. Just hard justifying buying another one.)

As it stands, the body is pretty much complete, the rear fenders need some final putty and sanding. I sank an antenna hole in the rear fender, but you will be able to see those pics when I post them in the next couple of days. I found some nice bullet tail lights as well. It would not really be my choice if I were doing one today, but then again, this is more like my father built back in the day.

[Jeremy Jon]

Nice chop! I agree, it's got that just "right" forward slope arc to the roof, very nice!

[DrKerry]

It's not to easy to get the correct angle in the rear curve and have it look "Right" but you did it!!!!!!

One I did in primer....

And painted

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Very Nice Kerry

[DrKerry]

Just thought I'd throw some inspiration your way. Are you using the AMT body? If so the Revell chassis fits under it very nicely and it gives you a ton more detail than the AMT. That's what is under my 40 here, motor trans and chassis are all out of it. Just a little info for ya.

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Yes, it is the old AMT kit that I am using. I may have to pick up the Revell. At this point, I have already started to cut away the molded in floor pans form the frame. For the motor, I will need to get a Chevy 283, not yet sure what my best source for that will be.

[DrKerry]

This is the chassis.

Revell's floor pan

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Well, I got the rear light insets done, and the tube for the antenna.The fenders and the body are ready for final primer and sanding.

Until/unless I get the Revell for the chassis, I started to remove all of the molded in floor plan. The frame itself is not all that bad. Now, most of the suspension parts in this kit are junk, so I will have to do some parts digging.

[ajshot58]

Revell's '57 Chevy has a SWEET 283..... very detailed! 1/25th scale, that is....

[ajshot58]

try Newt's Boneyard for both the Revell 283, and the chassis / floor pan you want. I've always had good luck finding what I want, and he's really reasonable on pricing!

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Revell's '57 Chevy has a SWEET 283..... very detailed! 1/25th scale, that is....

Are you talking about the Black Widow one?

try Newt's Boneyard for both the Revell 283, and the chassis / floor pan you want. I've always had good luck finding what I want, and he's really reasonable on pricing!

I checked them out, no such luck this time around. Thanks for the suggestion tho.

[Modelbuilder Mark]

I have had several projects going, and finally got some more done on this. (actually got more done on it, but my pics just do not come out decent most of the time) Any rate, Testor's gloss black decanted and airbrushed. Let it set up a few more days then I will polish out and clear coat.

embossing powder for the floorboards rubberized mats, and there will be no back seats. My father bought his car from a police auction, previous owner was a moonshine runner, and where the back seat was, was a tank for the hooch. Dad just never put any seats back in, but did have to return the tank as a condition of the purchase.