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Posted

Hi I would like to know what are some good rattle can paint brands reasonably priced? I kno there is Tamiya of course, but its quite expensive.

Posted

I like the Model Masters spray cans, but they are a bit pricey too.

I just used Rustoleum cans, and got as nice of a finish one can expect from a spray can. At 3.87 for a full size can, it is hard to beat.

Posted (edited)

I would say the Model Master line of Lacquer paints is decent , I dont use enamel so I wont comment on that, I have heard very good things about Mr Hobby line of paints, and some say are better the Tamiya, I am in the process of trying to buy a few cans of Mr Hobby Primer to try out

NIce thing about Model Master Lacquer , is Hobby Lobby sells them, so if you have one near you, use a 40% off coupon

Duplicolor is good as well, a lot of folks use Duplicolor , I would say its about the same price, but you get two times as much

Edited by martinfan5
Posted

I would say the Model Master line of Lacquer paints is decent , I dont use enamel so I wont comment on that, I have heard very good things about Mr Hobby line of paints, and some say are better the Tamiya, I am in the process of trying to buy a few cans of Mr Hobby Primer to try out

NIce thing about Model Master Lacquer , is Hobby Lobby sells them, so if you have one near you, use a 40% off coupon

Duplicolor is good as well, a lot of folks use Duplicolor , I would say its about the same price, but you get two times as much

i second duplicolor it goes on easy and has a great range of colors that look good...better than your rustoleum or krylons

Posted

MCW and Black Gold also has some great colors in rattle cans, however they may be a bit pricey. Yes over the years, the cost of building a model car kit has gone up. Spray paints, photo-etched parts, resin parts, decals, etc. It is still fun and may people enjoy this hobby of model cars.

Posted

apart from the quality of the paint and or cans you are using there are several things to keep in mind that can improve the quality of the paint job

first of, keep in mind some paints dry quicker then others

if you are shooting clear A over paint B over primer C you must ensure both B and C are properly cured or those coats will shrink and cause cracking of the coat A

now, this is much more likely to happen when using a combination of paint brands, lacquer and enamels

secondly: preparation

make sure you paint during the right conditions, if you have to paint outside do it on a dry, windstill warm day

make sure you have as good a base as possible, clean the model you are about to paint, if it feels to rough, sand it (then wash it again)

when you are ready to paint put your paint can in a pan of water and warm it up nicely, don't let it boil but let it get hot to the touch

this will "thin" out the paint and allow it to flow nicer

and remember, several thin coats are always better then one thick one

baseline: a good painter with lousy equipment will still do a better job then a lousy painter with the best equipment

Posted
baseline: a good painter with lousy equipment will still do a better job then a lousy painter with the best equipment

QFT, I use anything from dollar general paint to Duplicolor Perfect Match. I like PM because of the obvious factory colorways, and a new Oreilleys opened up five minutes from my home. They're about $6 and change per can but i can get a couple maybe 3 cars out of a can depending on the size of the body. And they work brainlessly for me with proper preparation. Aside from that Painters Touch from Rustoleum works well too, just a lil different technique because of the 2x coverage.

Posted

I like Duplicolor and Duplicolor clear as well for the body I buy mine at Orielly's just up the street, for chassis and other parts I use Rustoleum, Valspar, Krylon usually from Lowes or Wally World for $3 - 4 for a large can and it goes a long way on small stuff. :D

Posted

cool thanks a lot for the info given ;) I think im going to stick with duplicolor for the bodys, since they have lacquers and are faster drying.

Posted

I used to think ordinary automotive store brands were pure junk, but when I was in somewhat desperate need to a quick yellow coat for this model a couple of years ago .... (borrowing somebody else's photo here)

DSC02885-vi.jpg

.... I was amazed how well an ordinary can of Ace Hardware Premium Enamel Sunshine Yellow Gloss flowed out, hardened up, and polished out to look like a metal painted surface. No clear coat needed, it shines up quite nicely.

Posted

Duplicolor for just about everything. Of course using their primer under it.

If you watch, you can find closeouts of obsolete colors, which are great for model work. Two years ago I bought 25 cans at Ollies for a buck a can!

Posted

I am not brand loyal. I change it up depending on my needs, and what I find on clearence/sale. Recently, Hobby Lobby had a BUNCH of Testors cans on clearence, including metalizers and the laquers, so I ran to a couple locations and picked up a 25 or so cans at about $1.20 each.

For the most part tho, I only shoot Tamiya primer and Testors Metalizers from the can, unless I am painting flat black or similar for chassis work or weathering etc.

Posted

Like Mark said, there are different paints for different situations. While I love Duplicolor for main body colors, there are other paints I use for effects. I love the Testors Metalizers for when you need several metal tones. Much of my weathering involves Testors Dulcote and flat black. I will also buy most any brand of primer gray and flat / semi gloss black for the same reason I like the Metalizers... I use them for different tones, sometimes on interiors next to each other to give interest and show different materials that would be on the real car.

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