W-409 Posted June 11, 2014 Author Posted June 11, 2014 Sorry guys I'm late with the reply. But finally the Olds got some progress! Anyway Thanks for the comments! I think you may have misunderstood me, on the real cars that ribbed panel is stainless steel, with only the tops of the ribs polished, but you could come close by using aluminum Metalizer (the buffing type) and lightly buffing the tops of the panel to give it the illusion that it's polished stainless. I knew the ribs were polished stainless steel. By painting them I tried to say that I would need to try paint them to look like polished stainless if I wanted. Today I took this one back to the bench. It needed some sanding and smoothing, but nothing too much and I was able to mask off the top and spray some color on it! It wasn't very successful try, though as there are some cracks visible on the rear end. I don't know why that happened, but it will need to be sanded. If I don't sand through the paint I'll just spray another coat on, but if I do I have to start all over again. Anyway the hood got some Primer.
Slammed1 Posted June 12, 2014 Posted June 12, 2014 Those cars have great curves,the roof line is my favorite part and glad you didnt chop it. Your engine looks great.
slusher Posted June 12, 2014 Posted June 12, 2014 Glad to see your back working on this build again Niko..
DynoMight Posted June 12, 2014 Posted June 12, 2014 What color are the rims, I think I missed it.. Certainly a bronze color...
W-409 Posted June 13, 2014 Author Posted June 13, 2014 Thanks Everyone! I'm happy to have it back on the bench, too as it is a nice car and I think the stance came out pretty good. I'm going to sand the body soon and I'll see if I'm able to just shoot more paint on it or if I have to start all over again with the body. The wheels are painted with Revell Copper. I can't remember the number for it, but I think Revell has only one Copper paint color.
DynoMight Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) Thanks Everyone! I'm happy to have it back on the bench, too as it is a nice car and I think the stance came out pretty good. I'm going to sand the body soon and I'll see if I'm able to just shoot more paint on it or if I have to start all over again with the body. The wheels are painted with Revell Copper. I can't remember the number for it, but I think Revell has only one Copper paint color. Thanks Niko, I figured it was Copper... I would wetsand (1200, 1000 grit) the car and put a light coat over it. But don't burn through the paint, go easy. And then clear coat it. That should fix it.. Edited June 13, 2014 by DynoMight
Dragfreak Posted June 14, 2014 Posted June 14, 2014 Glad to see you back working on this Niko, it's a neat car
W-409 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Posted June 15, 2014 Thanks Guys, I appreciate the kind words! Thanks Niko, I figured it was Copper... I would wetsand (1200, 1000 grit) the car and put a light coat over it. But don't burn through the paint, go easy. And then clear coat it. That should fix it.. Yep. That's my plan. Only problem is that there is only a little paint as the cracking started before I was able to shoot any wet coats on it. So it will be hard to sand so that it won't go through the paint. But I hope I can make it and then just spray more paint on it, then the second color for the top and then some clear...
DynoMight Posted June 15, 2014 Posted June 15, 2014 Yep. That's my plan. Only problem is that there is only a little paint as the cracking started before I was able to shoot any wet coats on it. So it will be hard to sand so that it won't go through the paint. But I hope I can make it and then just spray more paint on it, then the second color for the top and then some clear... I'd invest in a airbrush if you already don't have one.. a Iwata revolution is like $80 here and a good air compressor is around $100... They also sell airbrush kits at hobby stores around here, so they're probably around you too...
W-409 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Posted June 16, 2014 I have an airbrush and I really like it. It's a Badger 250 that works really well and it's quite simple to use, too. The problem why I use spray paints is that I haven't found a paint that works with the airbrush. Revell and Humbrol Enamels work well otherwise, but my experiences with Revell clear are not very good. It flaked off with BMF and Humbrol's clear will turn yellow during the years. My plan is to try Tamiya Acrylics with the airbrush next, but I'll need to gather some information about them first. I know a couple of modelers here in Finland have used those paints succesfully with an airbrush, so I'll have to ask them about painting those and what clear is suitable. I'll have to practise using Alclad Chrome, too, so the airbrush will be in use really soon, I guess.
StevenGuthmiller Posted June 17, 2014 Posted June 17, 2014 Do you have access to Testors Paints Niko? The Testors clear lacquers work quite well, even over enamels. I've never tried spraying them over acrylics but they're not as "hot" as an automotive lacquer, so they're not as prone to etching or lifting under coats. Steve
Jon Geddes Posted June 17, 2014 Posted June 17, 2014 Looks great! A model I'm working did the cracking bit on me as well, only my primer coat did it. It was really old paint, so I suspect that was the issue in my personal situation.
W-409 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Posted June 17, 2014 Thanks Steven and Jon! Steven: I remember seeing Testors' paints somewhere here in Finland. I just can't remember who sold them, but I will have to try their clear lacquer for sure if I can find it somewhere. This might be a dumb question, but I want to make it sure so if I find Testors paints I don't pick the wrong bottle . So is this the correct stuff? Another thing I've been wondering is if Tamiya's TS-13 Clear works with Enamels. I'm going to test that soon. Jon: With old paints it's possible to get interesting results... I've tried that, too. I don't know what went wrong in my case, as the paint wasn't too old, but I hope light sanding and re-spray will work fine on this.
xtremescaledetail Posted June 18, 2014 Posted June 18, 2014 The detail work is looking great very clean work .
W-409 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks for the kind words... Better late than never! Finally I got inspiration to give this body a light wetsand and repaint it. I sanded with 1,000 and 2,000 grit sandpaper and I sprayed a couple of thin coats and two wet coats on the body. At least so far it looks pretty good, hopefully it looks good when dry, too so I could take the tape off and mask everything else but the roof, which will be painted silver. It's great to have this one back on the bench. If the painting goes as it should, I hope this to be finished really soon.
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 3, 2014 Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks Steven and Jon! Steven: I remember seeing Testors' paints somewhere here in Finland. I just can't remember who sold them, but I will have to try their clear lacquer for sure if I can find it somewhere. This might be a dumb question, but I want to make it sure so if I find Testors paints I don't pick the wrong bottle . So is this the correct stuff? Another thing I've been wondering is if Tamiya's TS-13 Clear works with Enamels. I'm going to test that soon. Jon: With old paints it's possible to get interesting results... I've tried that, too. I don't know what went wrong in my case, as the paint wasn't too old, but I hope light sanding and re-spray will work fine on this. That's the stuff Niko. Or at least one of them. Testors makes 3 or 4 different Lacquer gloss coats, (I don't know why) I use Testors # 28139 "Ultra Gloss Clear Coat" for most applications, but I have gotten to like the one you pictured (#1834 Wet Look Clear) for final coats. If you're only using 1 or 2 coats, I think I'd go with that one. I also have Testors # 1261 Gloss Coat. Haven't found a real good use for that one yet, but it is the economy stuff. About a buck cheaper than the others. Good luck!! Steve
W-409 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Posted September 12, 2014 Thanks Steve for the great tips! I will definitely try those when I find them somewhere. If not in Finland, then I must order them online... Thanks Shane for the kind words! Your builds are something that keep me motivated. You do such a nice and clean work. There was still a minor paint issue after the repaint so I sanded it smooth once more, and sprayed a really light coat of red on the trunk area where the paint was cracked. Luckily it turned out smooth, but as I painted a really light coat, the color turned out being flat rather than shiny. Well, I hope clear coat will fix that. After removing the tape I did a mock up on the chassis. Tomorrow I'm going to a local Model Car Show and I'm taking this one with me to the Primer Table. After that show I will paint the top with silver and clear coat this thing.
slusher Posted September 12, 2014 Posted September 12, 2014 Looking good Niko. I had a 59 Chevy I painted that keep cracking on the top only. Sometimes things can be a mystery.
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 12, 2014 Posted September 12, 2014 Looks perfect for clear coat now Niko! A coat or two of good gloss coat will really shine it up. Your color coats don't need to be shiny to produce a good finished product. Most lacquers will leave you with a dull finish too. Steve
Jantrix Posted September 12, 2014 Posted September 12, 2014 Looking good Niko. I had a 59 Chevy I painted that keep cracking on the top only. Sometimes things can be a mystery. Amen to that.
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