Hendrix Mfg. -- Recommendations..?

[mike 51]

You *do* realize that is a picture of a REAL 58 Ford..........

these kits have no plated parts and may require more "clean-up" than you seem to be comfortable with.

I think you might do better with one from Modelhaus...... *if* you really want a 58 Ford convertible or hardtop (he does both).

Edited May 12, 2015 by mike 51

[gtx6970]

Not to be a negative nelly.

But at the price point of a quality resin kit.

For me personally. I would look for an original builtup kit. Isnt the Modelhaus kit nearly $100 ?

They're not that hard to find . and the few I've watched sell on Ebay sold in the $75 range

The only Hendrix kit I have is the service truck body and it looks pretty good to me

[fseva]

kits have no plated parts and may require more "clean-up" than you seem to be comfortable with.

I think you might do better with one from Modelhaus....

I have considered Modelhaus, but can't even get to see the kits, let alone what they turn out like. If I decide on Modelhaus, I'll have to give it some serious thought as to what car I'd like. Then, I'll ask here to see if there is anyone who has built it.

Yeah, I did that and no one has apparently ever built the Crestliner by Modelhaus...

Edited May 13, 2015 by fseva

[fumi]

You can also get them from Steve Kohler at Star Models. He posts pics of the real kits on his site.

http://resinrealm.net/STAR%20Models/index.html

Star Models' home page:

http://resinrealm.net/Star/STARModels.html

Edited May 12, 2015 by fumi

[Bob Ellis]

I have the stated above '58 Ford from Hendrix, though I think it came through Model Roundup.

It is pretty much a perfect copy of the original AMT kit, less kit type glass. It has vacuformed glass. I might use the glass from the AMT 57 Ford?

All the screw posts and characteristics of the original kit are there. You could re-screw it.

It has whitewall tires with nice inserts. Takes a little trimming to get the wheel cover in the tire.

The body was straight, no thicker than the original (the original '58 AMTs are way thicker than todays kits). Had a couple of pinholes to fill.

I think it cost me $60. Except for chrome issue, really not worse than a Modelhaus resin.

You have to alcad or send out to be chromed.

[Rob Hall]

I have a couple Hendrix resin kits, a '53 Ford 2dr sedan and a '63 Ford 4dr sedan..they are decent...

[Craig Irwin]

I have a 55 Ford Fairlane and 56 Chevy Belair sedan, both very buildable, not quite up to the Modelhaus standard, but they didn't cost Modelhaus money either.

[fseva]

You can also get them from Steve Kohler at Star Models. He posts pics of the real kits on his site.

http://resinrealm.net/STAR%20Models/index.html

Star Models' home page:

http://resinrealm.net/Star/STARModels.html

Are you saying you can buy Hendrix' kits at Stevel Kohler's place? I tried it and could find no listing for Hendrix... unless it goes under another name?

[fseva]

I have the stated above '58 Ford from Hendrix, though I think it came through Model Roundup.

It is pretty much a perfect copy of the original AMT kit, less kit type glass. It has vacuformed glass. I might use the glass from the AMT 57 Ford?

All the screw posts and characteristics of the original kit are there. You could re-screw it.

It has whitewall tires with nice inserts. Takes a little trimming to get the wheel cover in the tire.

The body was straight, no thicker than the original (the original '58 AMTs are way thicker than todays kits). Had a couple of pinholes to fill.

I think it cost me $60. Except for chrome issue, really not worse than a Modelhaus resin.

You have to alcad or send out to be chromed.

I think the issue of chrome is very valid - even though Alclad claims their product is "chrome", I have never been very successful in obtaining that kind of result. I would need to buy a resin transkit, or a complete kit including everything needed. I would probably be better off elsewhere. Thanks for the info!

[fumi]

Are you saying you can buy Hendrix' kits at Stevel Kohler's place? I tried it and could find no listing for Hendrix... unless it goes under another name?

I think they are listed under "STAR Models" in the resin kit dropdown box now.

[250 Testa Rossa]

I have their '34 Ford Fordor transkit. It's an okay casting, but could use a little cleaning up. It isn't all that bad, but it's the only way to go if you want to do Bonnie and Clyde's death car.

[fseva]

I think they are listed under "STAR Models" in the resin kit dropdown box now.

Yeah, that's strange - I sure wouldn't have known that Hendrix models were buried in here! The only way I could tell was by comparing the photos of the 51 Pontiac Fastback on both Star and Model Roundup's websites. Yep, they're the same, but MR tacks on a hefty fee in the process! Guess this would make Star's more acceptable, but I'd still have to concern myself with chroming... Thanks for the reply!

[Monty]

I think the issue of chrome is very valid - even though Alclad claims their product is "chrome", I have never been very successful in obtaining that kind of result.

Alclad can help create a fantastic finish if you're willing to follow directions. It's a process. These semi wheels were done by a friend of mine (and fellow board member) purepmd:

This wasn't done in one squirt-n-blurt session; he airbrushed multiple mist coats until he got the results he wanted.

[fseva]

Alclad can help create a fantastic finish if you're willing to follow directions.

Except that those directions vary from user to user - I tried it several ways, and in some cases, the results were impressive... until I touched the surface and left a mark that would not go away. So, even if you follow application directions, this is still not the most durable of products. And there is nothing you can put over it that will help the durability, without it also reducing the reflectivity. When I see both of these things corrected by Alclad, I'll give it a shot again, but in the meantime, take off your rose-colored glasses and don't expect this kind of result, especially if you're a rookie and have a limited budget, because you will need to do a lot of experimenting before you start getting great results.

[Monty]

Except that those directions vary from user to user - I tried it several ways, and in some cases, the results were impressive... until I touched the surface and left a mark that would not go away. So, even if you follow application directions, this is still not the most durable of products. And there is nothing you can put over it that will help the durability, without it also reducing the reflectivity. When I see both of these things corrected by Alclad, I'll give it a shot again, but in the meantime, take off your rose-colored glasses and don't expect this kind of result, especially if you're a rookie and have a limited budget, because you will need to do a lot of experimenting before you start getting great results.

From what I've seen, Alclad has been pretty consistent in their directions; it's the users' interpretations that vary. Although some modelers have found other bases (non-black & occasionally non-enamel) that they like, the wheels I posted were done according to Alclad's directions. Kinda hard to argue with results like that, huh?

As for durability, if you touch some day-old Testors enamel paint jobs, you'll leave a mark. Gonna stop using them, or just try to be smarter about how you handle painted parts? There are too many people on here who've used Alclad successfully for anyone to pay attention to your whining. Like most things in this hobby (prep work, assembly, painting etc) it may require a bit of effort to learn, but that's how we get better.

Lastly, I think it's hilarious that you're talking about limited budgets but you're sniffing around for resin kits - many of which are over $50.00 and have parts that will require you to either use Alclad or send them off for plating. Perhaps you could offset the cost by selling your rose-colored glasses.

Edited May 17, 2015 by Monty

[PeeBee]

I've been using Alclad for over ten years and the application directions haven't changed, and I haven't seen anywhere that they have issued different instructions for different users (why would anybody do that?). It's very simple: Apply a base coat of gloss black ENAMEL (not lacquer, not acrylic) and apply MIST COATS of Alclad @ 12-15 PSI.

Of course, you want to make sure the surface you're spraying the base coat on is clean and smooth as glass; Alclad will reveal every imperfection, spec of dust, etc. And, I read on this forum that spraying the mist coats of Alclad at an angle to the work, rather than direct application, will help achieve the chrome-like finish your after. I tried this and it was a noticeable improvement over previous applications I had performed.

PB.

[fseva]

I've been using Alclad for over ten years and the application directions haven't changed, and I haven't seen anywhere that they have issued different instructions for different users (why would anybody do that?). It's very simple: Apply a base coat of gloss black ENAMEL (not lacquer, not acrylic) and apply MIST COATS of Alclad @ 12-15 PSI.

Of course, you want to make sure the surface you're spraying the base coat on is clean and smooth as glass; Alclad will reveal every imperfection, spec of dust, etc. And, I read on this forum that spraying the mist coats of Alclad at an angle to the work, rather than direct application, will help achieve the chrome-like finish your after. I tried this and it was a noticeable improvement over previous applications I had performed.

Well, it's that kind of embellishment of the company's instructions that I was referring to when I indicated different directions - I found several other variations on a theme at YouTube, and I believe one of the variations I found in a back issue of MCM! They all vary a bit - now, the first time I ever heard that you could NOT substitute a lacquer or an acrylic for the black, and yet I seem to recall that Alclad recommends their black and it is not an enamel - it's a lacquer. Finally, where you refer to "mist coats", Alclad says very mysteriously that you should mimic a "brushing motion"... whatever the heck that means...