Nice kitty...

[charlie8575]

I run into that bubbly business on pretty much every gluebomb I've worked on, especially when two parts aren't quite touching and the glue fills the gap. Maybe clean it up as close as possible, then weather the rest to look like dirt and rust?

Good luck with the windows; will a new set from an AMT '63-'64 Impala interchange?

Well, I might resort to a resin chassis from Greg Wann if I decide that's the best route, but I'm going to try and repair what's there first. I suspect with a little filler and some flat black (think undercoating), I can get it to look pretty good.

Those windows have been suggested as a backup if I need them. First, though I need to get that existing unit extracted.

Charlie Larkin

[1930fordpickup]

Charlie you might want to put a some tape on the glass while you are trying to get the window out . One slip will not make your day. Yes I have seen glue look just like this on several old glue bombs.

[Tony N]

Charlie

I would check on using a old AMT 64 impala windows. I have a convertible 64 Wildcat with a bad window frame and I tired the 64 Impala windows and it looks like it will work. The Impala tub fits, but is just a little narrow. You could also use part of the rear frame also, the Buick has its wheels forward more.

[slusher]

Charlie

I would check on using a old AMT 64 impala windows. I have a convertible 64 Wildcat with a bad window frame and I tired the 64 Impala windows and it looks like it will work. The Impala tub fits, but is just a little narrow. You could also use part of the rear frame also, the Buick has its wheels forward more.

Charlie, Tony has a good point on the XMT 64 chevy glass.. Would a chisle knife work on the glued in glass?

[Tom Geiger]

If the glass is glued in really tight, especially if it's glued around the window frames (as opposed to just on the runners on the bottom of the roof) you may be better off just leaving it be and masking it off for paint. You still need to fix the melt on the roof, but can hide the glass runners under a headliner.

[charlie8575]

A short update, as I meant to post yesterday, and didn't get a chance.

Even after a couple of days soaking in soapy water, those decals still won't budge. Wow. The only thing I can think of is SuperClean. Anyone else have any other ideas?

The 1963-64 Chevy glass has been bandied around pretty thoroughly, and I may try it. Assuming the window comes out, it can be polished out pretty easily.

The chisel-blade isn't a bad idea, either. I was able to score around most of the approximate outline of the stretchers, as noted previously. The body went in the freezer on...Sunday, I believe. I simply haven't had time enough to check on it yet. Depending on progress, I might try that next. Worst case, as Tom suggested, I'll simply have to mask off and paint-in-place after masking it.

After removal from the freezer, I'll see what's going on. The interior bucket is in the water now, and will be going in next.

Charlie Larkin

[om617]

A short update, as I meant to post yesterday, and didn't get a chance.

Even after a couple of days soaking in soapy water, those decals still won't budge. Wow. The only thing I can think of is SuperClean. Anyone else have any other ideas?

I used a super sharp scalpel to peel off decals on an old AAR Cuda. No force was used to be sure i did not peel the plastic,it worked out nice.

[charlie8575]

Interesting idea on the scalpel. I'm not the best with knives, but it might work. Let's see how things are going with the dis-assembly.

Charlie Larkin

[Tom Geiger]

Charlie - Did you try to pull the decals off with tape? I've been successful doing so (even when I didn't want to remove the decals!). I'd try stickier tape like duct tape. Let it sit over night, then let 'er rip!

[Greg Wann]

HMMMM..... about getting the decals off you might try some plastic polish like you would use on headlights OR sharpen a coffee stirrer. I get them from Starbucks. Just sand the end down like your chisel blade. It could be sharp enough to scrape through the decal yet not damage the bodies surface. Also if it slips it may or may not cut you. I can get them sharp enough to cut through silicone on my molds. I'm working on the chassis mold.

Edited October 16, 2013 by Greg Wann

[James2]

Interesting thread, have you tried decal solvent to remove them?

Edited October 16, 2013 by James2

[charlie8575]

Charlie - Did you try to pull the decals off with tape? I've been successful doing so (even when I didn't want to remove the decals!). I'd try stickier tape like duct tape. Let it sit over night, then let 'er rip!

Hmmm....the problem would then become removing the duct tape adhesive. It's not a bad idea, though. I might give it a whirl. I wonder if good masking tape would work, too? That residue will come off with good dish soap and lukewarm water.

Interesting thread, have you tried decal solvent to remove them?

Honestly, I hadn't even thought of that. To make sure we're talking about the same stuff- you're thinking something along the lines of Solvaset or something similar?

Charlie Larkin

[James2]

^^^ Yes any of the softening solvents.^^^

[Bob Ellis]

When I read your post about the Wildcat, it reminds me about myself. I have bought many built ups and found the glass is hopelessly melted to the roof.

Except for the stuck glass, the body itself is very nice. Worth fixing. I have had 0% success freezing the plastic. Xactos, small screw drivers and the Dremel are only ones that work for me.

Shipping tape should pull those bad boy decals off.

I hate to tell you that nothing short of a Dremel will solve you glass problem. Make sure you run the Dremel on a slow speed as fast rpms will melt the plastic and even gum up the grinding wheel. Work slow and at different angles.If it slips, you may lose details. Fortunately for you, all the grinding will be in the center where repairs will be easy.

Good luck

The others are correct, I believe. The 64 Impala should give you the glass. Same roof but maybe you will need the shorten lengthen the glass runner under the roof.

[charlie8575]

Thanks, Bob.

I'll update when it comes out of the freezer- a busy last couple of days combined with a rather nasty cold has had me pretty well sidelined building-wise. I'll probably play with it tomorrow.

Charlie Larkin

[Greg Wann]

Charlie,

Here is a pic of the two chassis I made today.

[charlie8575]

Greg, those are GORGEOUS.

I'm still fiddling with mine to see what I can do to salvage it, but if it turns out to be a no-go, I'll be contacting you.

The windows are indeed pretty well in there. I'll be re-soaking the body and trying again, as it did seem that there might be some hope as a little bit was coming loose.

More updates very soon.

Charlie Larkin

[Greg Wann]

Thanks, Charlie, yes, they turned out really well. I am even impressed. i will do the glass too. I will make a resin buck that Mike will use to create vacuum form windows like he did with the Fox Mustang. I will do the interior parts, hoods, boot and mold of the convertible body. I don't think Modelhaus does these parts.

Edited October 24, 2013 by Greg Wann

[Tom Geiger]

^{Charlie is there a modern full detail chassis that would fit under this Buick??}

[gwolf]

Charlie, great job on this restoration. I restored an old AMT 32 Ford earlier this year and it was a huuuuuge pain in the butt. However, when I was done i just wasn't satisfied doing a kit straight out of the box for quite a while. It may happen to to you....

Here's my resto:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75266&hl=

[charlie8575]

^{Charlie is there a modern full detail chassis that would fit under this Buick??}

The short answer is no, Tom. I could probably kit-bash a Revell 1962-64 Chevy frame to fit under it, but then I have to deal with getting all the other parts to fit like the engine, transmission and interior. I would also have to stretch the Xs to fit the Buick wheelbase and much longer overall length.

Many years ago, I discovered that I am not a good plastic surgeon, and while I'll make small modifications to parts or perhaps swap pieces here and there, I do not do wholesale alterations well, and where especially right now, I work on a rather tight budget, I can't afford the extra kits or the cost if a serious error is made.

Charlie Larkin

[charlie8575]

Charlie, great job on this restoration. I restored an old AMT 32 Ford earlier this year and it was a huuuuuge pain in the butt. However, when I was done i just wasn't satisfied doing a kit straight out of the box for quite a while. It may happen to to you....

Here's my resto:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75266&hl=

If you haven't yet, take a look at Greg's work. Very nicely-done.

Charlie Larkin

[gwolf]

If you haven't yet, take a look at Greg's work. Very nicely-done.

Charlie Larkin

Thanks Charlie!

[Ju Ju]

Any progress on this project ? Was looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

[charlie8575]

Any progress on this project ? Was looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

Actually, I do have a small update, but no really good pictures. I'll try to do something with that this week.

The body is still WIP re: getting the decals off, although they're finally starting to loosen. I'm also still tinkering with the interior. If the glue doesn't become brittle and easy to separate, it's a nightmare. I think I'm going to have to mask the windows; I don't see any way around it.

I also discovered the engine from the AMT 1962 Electra is an absolute, total exact fit. I'll be using the front cover, or at least the brackets, from the '66 Wildcat engine (which didn't fit because it was designed a little differently). This will allow a fairly conventional 401-powered car, although I did find a nice picture from a parts catalog of a repro of the air-cleaner decals. I'll have those printed out on photo paper and attach them.

That's where things stand.

Charlie Larkin