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Posted

.020" styrene sheet makes great tubs for drag car rear wheel wells, if that's what you mean.

Cut a strip of the material that's wider than you want your tub to end up. Draw it over an edge of something...this will make it take a curl.

With a compass, draw a circle on another piece of styrene, the diameter of the wheel tub you're going to want...make sure it's bigger than your slick by enough margin to allow for suspension movement. Cut out the styrene circle.

Determine how tall your tub has to be, and cut your circle accordingly. With liquid cement, CAREFULLY glue the partial circle into the edge of the curled strip you made earlier. MAKE SURE IT'S SQUARE and LET IT DRY THOROUGHLY. Trim the ends when fully dry.

Attach the entire assembly to your chassis (you will have measured everything and know where everything needs to go already).

CAREFULLY file and fit the outside edges of your tubs to fit snugly inside the body shell.

Voila...well fitting wheel tubs.

Posted

I like to use a little thicker vertical panel if possible it give me a better glueing area. If you have your car prepped like I explained to you before. Built on jig, ride hight set by using the wheel and tire combination and the body permanently mounted you are ready to build the build the wheel tubs. I have found time and again the the techniques used learned for building a real car are extremely helpful in building a model. I am lucky to have a lot of experience and even more exposure by just hanging around shops asking questions. Do a google search . Download this document and I'll explain how I use this document and apply it to model building.

http://www.swracecars.com/Files/pdf/wheel_tub.pdf

I have two approaches

1 non removable body

2 removable body

Attach some tabs to the frame rails if you feel you want to remove them for paint them after install or paint them as you go. Follow the directions in the how they do it on a real car paint as you go. If you want to make the the tubs removable set the vertical panel in place drill small holes through the panel and tab and pin it. You may have to temporarily tape it in place also to keep it vertical. When it comes to marking the marking the circumference of the vertical piece use 1/16 measurements instead of 2" . To fit the width of tub tight to the body measure it with graphic artist tool (compass ? name escapes me, for drawing circles it has a thumb dial for adjusting width.) transfer this measurement to tubb. When your done you will connect all the dots on your wheel tubb and you will have what represent the curvature of the inside of your body. Follow along on the PDF. Do the same for the other side. Don't assume the body curvature is the same. Skype me @ 7pm EST if you like.

Posted

Vince: Thanks for the pdf. I'm building a 1:1 Mustang for Super Stock and wheel tubs are one of the challenges on my build list. Between this and what I've gathered from Alston's ChassisWorks, I can do enough of the prep work to save a big chunk of change on this.

Dale

Posted

I used the tops from a couple of Tamiya spray cans for wheel wells on a 1/16th Mustang. I suppose there are multiple ways to do this with a little thought put into it. Using aluminum from a pop can could work and if the pieces were laid on a semi-soft material the ribs that you see on 1:1 tubs can be scored in with a ball end of pen.

Posted

I've found that depending what size you need, you can/could use the 'small cap' from spray paint and cut in half...

Posted

back in the days of film I remember people making tubs from film canisters

5 hr energy drink bottles

I had a friend years ago that used prescription bottles and some sheet styrene. There are all sorts of pill bottles that might give you the arc you're looking for.

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