LeadFred Posted January 5, 2014 Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) Hi, I have another build that i want to show what i have started, And it is the first build for me that is very much scratched parts. The hole chassie is going to be scratched with aftermarket item and my own aluminum parts. And this is the mock-up that i have constructed a jig after. And i will give my best to this build,because this is a dream if i can reach the final steps. And i must say,that the hardest part of this kind of building (for me) is not to "Detail" the car, It is the location of parts,while you may not lose proportions + to the body then to sit nicely over the chassis. If i only can get through that chapter of the building i´ll think the rest is more easy to do. It is not "easy to super detail but i have done a lot of work with wiring and photo-etch so i can be more prepared of that,this scratch built chassie is new ground for me. Pray to the Modelcar god for me not to lose faith. I will update this by the way it goes further Fred Edited January 8, 2014 by LeadFred
tyrone Posted January 5, 2014 Posted January 5, 2014 you got my attention... this one is looking great... keep us posted.....
comp1839 Posted January 5, 2014 Posted January 5, 2014 i agree with tyrone and the chassis jig is a great idea.
Mooneyzs Posted January 5, 2014 Posted January 5, 2014 Fredrik... You are off to a great start. I have always loved the looks of duster pro mods. Making a jigbisnone of the best aids to help with the build.
LeadFred Posted January 6, 2014 Author Posted January 6, 2014 Hi again, I just wanna tell you that the chassie i have build was a little to hi in the rollcage,the trouble of that was that the body did´nt come down as i want, ( And to chopped it a little bit was to much work with,so i started to build a new one. It is less work to build a new one than start to modified rhe old one. I can use the same size in almost every strip from the old chassie and just do a little lower rollcage on this one. and ofcourse i started with the rollcage this time,in case that it wont fit again it have´nt take such a waste of time. And i can tell you that this time it fits,so the rest wont be a problem,but is is very difficult to build this chassie And i´m going to start a new topic of a Mustang Pro Mod just because i test fit the old duster chassie in the Mustang body,and guess.....It fits perfect. I will post some new pictures of the new start of the Duster chassie so you can see. Pictures of the Mustang Pro Mod are posted in that Topic Fred
Skypower Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 You have some serious skills and I'm learning a lot following your builds. So thank you.
pharr7226 Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 I like the jig. I just bought a bunch of silly putty that I planned to use a paint masking. But, you've given me some ideas for other uses.
DrKerry Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 you got my attention... this one is looking great... keep us posted..... You know it's gonna be good if you got Tyrone's attention . I'll be watchin this one too!!!!
LeadFred Posted January 7, 2014 Author Posted January 7, 2014 Thanks For all great feedback, If you find my Topic helpful with my pictures,thats great. I gladly share this with you. I want to show you a very helpful tool that i use when i assembles the chassie and rollcage. it is made of steel and they are heavy,but thats some of the point because it stands still when you need a stod. And also if you want to mock-up a wheelbase against a body and you want to make sure that the wheels are at an angle. To fix the wheels for the moment you can use something like silicone putty.(its like bubble gum) It is important when you measure the shock absorbers and the lower suspension arms, if you are not careless with it, it is high risk then when you assemble everything that the wheel does not sit where it should. Fred
ScaleDale Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 How did you get the angles of the roll cage bends to be so symmetrical? I use wooden molds and a heat gun and it's still very hard to do this. Your cage looks like it was pulled from the Chris Alston ChassisWorks catalogue. Excellent work. Dale
futurattraction Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 Fred, I agree completely with Dale. Your cage looks so perfect! Do you have any secrets???
LeadFred Posted January 8, 2014 Author Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) No Secrets, For the symmetric roll bar i always start with the rear rollbar where the highest point is. and always check the center of the jig,and always bend the styren strips with a sharp flame from gas burner. Practice on some scrap pieces first so you get to know how the strips reacts to the heat. You can mark the strip where you want the bend and make one or two quick moves through the flame just so that the stripe becomes soft in a small area. Then bend it to the angle you should have ,and hold for a few seconds until set,if you want to adjust some few degrees you can do it without the heat. I have done this over a candle flame, and it works but it's harder because the heat is blurry and you soften areas that you dont want a bend on. the sharp flame from a Gas burner heaten up a very limited area. It is much easier to work with. My burner fills up with the same as cigarette lighter gas If you want to do two bars with a bend who have exactly the same angle,you do the same as above but you hold two styrene strips at the same time. or you could use a adjustable angle tool,see the pictures. if you use the angle tool,you can keep the styrene strip fixed to the angle and then heat and bend it to the angle, (as a template). And do not forget all measuring,without that your lost, take extra length at each end and start from the middle, sometimes the bend are fine but in the wrong place, then you have an adjustment I´ll hope you find this explanation useful. You know i´m a Swede,but i´ll try my best to be understandable. Fred Two Strips at the same time. Strips are bent at the same time on freehand,two identical bends. Here i keep the strip in preparatory before tha heat. Direct after the heat,bend it and hold to set. Edited January 8, 2014 by LeadFred
ScaleDale Posted January 8, 2014 Posted January 8, 2014 The little butane torch is a good idea. My heat gun likes to soften up large areas, which makes free form bends more difficult. Your protractor is really nice! Mines just plastic. The Swiss have all the cool stuff.. Dale
Skypower Posted January 8, 2014 Posted January 8, 2014 Thanks Fred I will continue to watch and learn. I really appreciate you taking the time to teach as you build it really helps us new guys a lot. I was trying to use a candle, and did find that the area heated was too large and caused some distortion in the bar. I also love your tools, I will be looking for something similar myself to help me with my builds. Thanks again Bob
DrKerry Posted January 8, 2014 Posted January 8, 2014 Fred, no problem understanding ya, great tips. I to use a small butane torch that is used for shrink tubing, same concept. I use mine when I do my demolition derby cars and tube bending like you do. Thanks for sharing on how it's done!!!
blackbeard Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 fred you have any more updates on this great build
jeff f Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Great information , we are always trying to push ourselves and learn new tricks.
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