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Posted

There were (are) some Stock and Super Stock 'cuda racers that replaced the rear valance panel with one from a 6 cyl. car or Grand Coupe. I like the clean look so I filled the holes in mine.

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Another common practice was to remove the door mounted mirrors for better aerodynamics and less weight so out comes the putty.

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I actually lost one of the mirrors so this idea works out for me. I did find the transmission pan though!

I really do like the way that Revell put those recesses in the doors for the mirrors and the door handles.

WF

Posted

Got 'er painted. Oh, you want pictures? Not until I do some repair work. Silver shows every flaw and even some stuff that I did not know was there! Pics later

WF

Posted (edited)

Wasn't so frigid last night so I shot some paint on the 'cuda:

photo117-vi.jpg

My original intention was to paint the car with Tamiya's Silver Leaf. I shot the car and was not at all happy with the way it turned out.

Rather than strip the paint, I used it as a base coat for Testors' AMC Sterling Silver. It was a major improvement. Very smooth with lots of metallic flakes. Now that the car was "flaky" I felt that the shaker scoop should contrast with the main color so I painted it red.

I also painted the taillight panel with semi-gloss black.

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Now, on to foil!

WF

Edited by 6bblbird
Posted (edited)

Paint is polished and it's time to foil.

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Silver is so shiny that it's hard to see the foil!

If you build an E body, remember to foil the area below the windshield. These cars always came with a polished, stainless steel cover in this area. it would show up better if the car was a contrasting color.

I'm going to re-do the flat black weather strip. I thought that I had masked it well. The camera shows everything!

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WF

Edited by 6bblbird
Posted (edited)

Just about done! I couldn't wait for the sun to come up so I shot these with a flash. The flash really brings out the flake in this paint.

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She's all decaled and striped.

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I love the way the headers look with the collector extensions. ( no tethers required.....yet)

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I made side glass so that I could add a class designation and more decals.I still have to add a competition number and possibly a sponsor on the 1/4 panel and a name on the doors. I was worried about the fit of the rear valence and it was a p.i.t.a. You can see where it popped down. Next time, i'll trim more from the spring hanger and remove some material from the inside of the valence.

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All in all it was a fun build although it did challenge me at times. Things to watch out for when building one of these:

1. The rear valence fit. The rear spring shackles must be filed way down in order to get the valence in place.

2. If you use a wired distributor make certain that the dist. cap is as close to the block as possible so that you cn close the hood!

3. Installing the window glass. It just barely fits the window opening. Be careful when gluing it in place and don't leave any foil in the recesses. There is no margin for error.

4. Remember not to glue the chassis to the tub untill the tub is installed in the body.

5. You may want to remove some material from the sides of the chassis pan behind the rear wheel tubs to help with installation and you might also want to remove the material on the radiator support that fits into the fenders ( no one will notice if you do). It will make it much easier to join the chassis to the body.

WF

Edited by 6bblbird
Posted

"Looks awesome!

When you do get your collector teathers, make sure they are NHRA approved! "

Let's see...... Since this build is supposed to be circa 1985, I won't need those tethers for another 30 years ! Whew :)

  • 2 weeks later...

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