geetee66 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Posted March 14, 2014 Nice work! Too bad the guy who drove the 1:1 car is such a scumbag! Really!? I didn't know that Maybe I should've printed some decals, so it says 'Scumbagtious' down the side of the car! What did he do, to get a reputation like that?
geetee66 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Posted March 14, 2014 Well, that's just great. I've built a sex offenders car. If I'd known this about him before I built it, i think I would've changed the paint job to something different.... Gene Snow. Scumbag.
High octane Posted March 15, 2014 Posted March 15, 2014 I've seen a few so called "candy" paint jobs ruined because the person painting the body didn't know when to stop when he was spraying the candy coats. You need to see the base coat underneath. For instance, too many coats of candy red will give you a maroon color. Go EASY on the candy coats.
geetee66 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Posted March 15, 2014 Sorry about that, man. It doesn't diminish the quality of your work in the slightest. Cheers Carl. I'll do my research next time to avoid building a nonce's car..! You're absolutely correct, Nick. The candy coat must be applied progressively, evenly and not too thick, or the base colour will lose its effect. I'm currently fiddling with the tinwork inside the body, so hopefully finished pics will be added in the next day or so.
geetee66 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Posted March 15, 2014 I got the headers fitted today I think that's all for the chassis, I just have to finish the tinwork and the chute rope and it'll be done I'll post some 'under glass' pics with the body, tomorrow. Thanks for looking
Mister Twister Posted March 16, 2014 Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Excellent detail work...Really impressive chassis. keep at it! Edited March 16, 2014 by Mister Twister
MitchP Posted March 16, 2014 Posted March 16, 2014 Again, wonderful work and the decals came out beautiful. The mistakes we make in life and the punishment doesn't dull the accomplishments IMO. However, society doesn't normally see it that way. Case in point: politicians commiting adultery (although it didn't hurt Bill Clinton) If I might address two more questions about the painting discussion: I use rattle cans and if I attempt a 2 color candy coat effect, it'll be when the weather warms up. Otherwise, I'll stick to Testors custom One Coat colors. Once I've misted and sprayed a reasonable number of gold coats, how long must I wait before attempting the same process using the red? How do you know if you're overcoating the gold and reducing it's original purpose? The other question is I really like the color of the blower and hat. Is that the new sprayable Alclad line of paint? I also see what appears to be a slightly yellowish tone at the top of the exhaust pipes and flange. Is that also an Alclad paint designed to appear like heated chrome color? I've gotten some advise from ClayK who did the awesome 1/24 handbuilt "Blackbeard's Revenge" pro mod and he gave me a combination of 3 colors to use, although he was painting on alum I think. Thanks!
geetee66 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Posted March 16, 2014 Ok, here it is. Finally finished. It wasn't an easy build, by any means. There's still a lot to like about it, though. I'd recommend it to anyone who loves nostalgia drag, as it has a lot of great details. I know some of you experts will see glaring mistakes, but I admit to only a basic knowledge of Drag cars and I just wanted it to 'look' right. I bought the Polar Lights version of the Hawaiian, which is identical in almost every way to this car and what I learned from this, will make that build a doddle. Anyway, enough blah blah.... Here are the finished pics: Thanks for looking!
brett Posted March 17, 2014 Posted March 17, 2014 gorgeous work Guy, one of the best examples I've seen, Stellar effort mate,
geetee66 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) Again, wonderful work and the decals came out beautiful. The mistakes we make in life and the punishment doesn't dull the accomplishments IMO. However, society doesn't normally see it that way. Case in point: politicians commiting adultery (although it didn't hurt Bill Clinton) If I might address two more questions about the painting discussion: I use rattle cans and if I attempt a 2 color candy coat effect, it'll be when the weather warms up. Otherwise, I'll stick to Testors custom One Coat colors. Once I've misted and sprayed a reasonable number of gold coats, how long must I wait before attempting the same process using the red? How do you know if you're overcoating the gold and reducing it's original purpose? The other question is I really like the color of the blower and hat. Is that the new sprayable Alclad line of paint? I also see what appears to be a slightly yellowish tone at the top of the exhaust pipes and flange. Is that also an Alclad paint designed to appear like heated chrome color? I've gotten some advise from ClayK who did the awesome 1/24 handbuilt "Blackbeard's Revenge" pro mod and he gave me a combination of 3 colors to use, although he was painting on alum I think. Thanks! Cheers for the nice comments everyone. You guys are pretty much the only people apart from me, who will ever see my builds. Your opinions matter a great deal to me, especially when I see what the rest of you are up to. Mitch, I waited about a week for the gold to gas-out, then I sprayed clear over it and waited a week for that to gas out, before I hit it with the candy red. My plastic spoon tests showed the metallic effect was increased with a clearcoat between the gold and candy. I applied the candy very progressively, taking time to check for patchiness or over-application. As soon as I had an even coat which had consistent colour saturation, I stopped. I left the candy to cure for a week or so before I sealed it with a clearcoat. The Alclad-looking paint is from a rattle can. I got it at an automotive parts store. I think it's intended for craft use and like Alclad, it doesn't like to be touched with fingers. Clearcoat dulls it and makes it look like flat silver. I heard that Alclad works well over gloss black, so that's how I prepped my surfaces. Plus, it helps you see where the paint is thin. The heat-stain was brushed on, using Tamiya smoke, clear orange and red with some metallic copper and a bit of clear blue. It's a bit trial and error. I used some sprayed sprue to test my colours, before I applied it to the model. I built up the orange gradually, allowing each coat to dry completely. I added a bit of red to the top portion of the pipes, mixed in a little metallic copper and dulled the top part down with the smoke paint. Be progressive, light and don't try to rush it. Edited March 17, 2014 by geetee66
MitchP Posted March 17, 2014 Posted March 17, 2014 Thank you my friend for that clear and concise information. I have a lot of practicing to do but I can see from your efforts it's well worth it! I don't want to over use the effect on the headers, but it's great knowledge to have for future reference when the exhaust is a major viewing point, like the Chi-Town Hustler reissue. I'm currenty de-chroming the blower, hat, intake and valve covers from a 392 Hemi I need to stuff into a 1950's Ford truck build. Originally a flathead in a contest build, my detailing skills were well-meaning but very fragile on the 3x2 barrel and it self destructed waiting for me to get motivated on the chassis and bodywork. Now, I'll prolly miss the deadline, but it no biggie. I think the Alclad is just the ticket for the de-chromed engine parts. It was meant to be a fire chief's gasser style responder pickup, but even if I don't cut-out the hood for the blower I'll just leave it off; it should be fine. I'd love to shoot it in your color scheme, but I've got a couple cans of Testors "One Coat" semi-metallic red which should give it a nice fire dept color. Plus, I have gold leaf decals from the St. Louis Fire Dept., a couple of quick entry resin fire axes and a rack of extinguishers for the pickup bed. That gold leaf on yours really pops! If I might ask, the body holder you're using looks like it's only for painting the outer body and appears to have only had the red mist from the Rambunctious paint job on it. Where did you get it and do you use it often? I could really use something like that for my paint booth as we're in the middle of ANOTHER foot of snow coming down and outside painting is impossible where I live until June. Thanks for being patient and answering all my Q's!
booboo60 Posted March 17, 2014 Posted March 17, 2014 Well can't ad anything that all our other fellow brothers have said. Except, I was going to do the same car. Have the one in Tin, but think ill wait a month or 6, lol. Great job, I really like the Battery too, it looks like it would really power the Electrical components, lol. Sweet!
geetee66 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Posted March 17, 2014 Thanks guys Mitch, the paint stand is Tamiya. It came with a turntable and clamps, for painting small parts. Should be easy to get from a Tamiya dealer. I've used mine on every build. I also use it to keep the painted body in a safe place and for when I apply the decals (although I then tape the rotating part of the stand so the body doesn't turn when I'm in the middle of a decal) Here's a link to a pic of it: http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/tamiya-air-brushes-accessories-57000/spray-work-painting-stand-set-74522 Your truck sounds like it's gonna be very cool! Lookin forward to seeing it 'under glass'
Burnout Posted March 17, 2014 Posted March 17, 2014 That's one of the nicest builds of a Polar Lights F/C that I have seen. Congrats on a job well done.
jriley49 Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 What a great paint job, on the body and the chassis. Great details in the cockpit. Real nice work.
Harry P. Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 Very nice work all the way around. The chassis detailing is beautifully done.
High octane Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 What an awesome build on that funny car Guy, but it would look WAY better on MY shelf. LOL!
booboo60 Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 " I waited about a week for the gold to gas-out, then I sprayed clear over it and waited a week for that to gas out, before I hit it with the candy red," "that's what I was looking for, thanks for sharing, great looking build, an I still like the snowman team! And Cars, not so much Gene and what he was alleged to have done, but funny how money makes this go away for some so called victims or blackmailers? U decide, lol. Crazy stuff, "let's stick too model and car building topics, please! Lol
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