Need to decide how to do chrome trim

[SpencerC]

Trying to decide whether to use this bare metal chrome adhesive foil or paint the parts that are supposed to be chrome. The window trim could be fairly easy but the sides would be hard. It's a 68 mustang so it has that cool swoopy silver lining on the side near the side scoops/vents. I tried the chrome foil before and scratched up the car so bad I had to strip the paint and repaint it. But I think I could learn from my mistakes. What do you guys think? I there any other way?

[Guest]

Bare Metal Foil. Use a sharp blade, light pressure, let the blade do the cutting, go slowly.

[johnbuzzed]

Bare Metal Foil. Use a sharp blade, light pressure, let the blade do the cutting, go slowly.

Yep, what he said. Paint might seem easier and quicker but the results can be messy and ugly. One thing you can try is to light scribe around the areas to be covered with BMF before you paint; this adds some depth to the lines on which you'll be "cutting" the BMF and makes it easier to follow those lines.

[Harry P.]

There is no better way to simulate chrome trim than Bare Metal Foil. Painting the trim silver doesn't look anything like chrome trim.

[Jantrix]

Frankly since the first time I used BMF, there has been no other option. Period. It takes practice but the results are soooo well worth it. Get a scrap body, something from the 50's and just practice with no stress.

[cobraman]

Make sure you use a brand new blade if you decide to go the BMF route.

[Jon Haigwood]

I have been wanting to give Mylar reflective sheets a try

[SpencerC]

Okay so clearly bmf is the correct route, but something interesting happened lAst night. As I was cutting a piece of foil off the car it lifted some paint off with it. It looked just like it had before so I realized I hadn't been scratching it, it was just pulling paint up. How can I stop this? I painted over the parts that got pulled up and added a laquer clear coat. Will this be enough to protect my paint?

[cobraman]

Make sure your paint it dry before you clear and make sure you let the clear dry fully before you foil. Peal the extra foil off slowly and carefully and you should be ok. How are you pulling off the excess foil ?

[SpencerC]

Well I did the clear coat so it should dry while I'm at work. Should I do two coats? I am kinda pulling it off slow. It varies. Is there anything else I could do? Maybe a way to lower the tack on the foil?

[cobraman]

I have had slivers of foil pull up paint a time or two but I believe I cut too deep when trying to trim. When that happens I just shoot some color into a paint can top and then touch up with a small brush. Normally you can't even notice. Just use a new blade and don't try and cut too deep and you should be ok.

[tbill]

fairly new to BMF myself, but it gives amazing results. I have yet to have it peel up paint yet, so, I want to ask, what kind of paint do you use [enamel/lacquer/ or ??] and how long are you letting it dry?

when you cut the BMF, how are you doing it? I find a new blade is a must [i use an exacto knife], and I find the weight of the knife itself is plenty heavy enough to cut the foil, no pressure exerted by my fingers, just drag the knife along and let it cut. I wonder if maybe you have a combo of still not cured paint, and a little heavy handed on the foil cutting?

[D. Battista]

when you cut the BMF, how are you doing it? I find a new blade is a must [i use an exacto knife], and I find the weight of the knife itself is plenty heavy enough to cut the foil, no pressure exerted by my fingers, just drag the knife along and let it cut. I wonder if maybe you have a combo of still not cured paint, and a little heavy handed on the foil cutting?

Sounds like that to me also.

And yes I agree it's the best and most realistic looking way to do chrome trim.

You don't want to try to lessen the tack on the foil..

On long lines lay the blade down a little.... don't try to cut with the tip. and as tbill said the weight of the knife is enough to cut the foil. Think draw not cut, don't press.

It was also said to get a scrap body and practice.... then you will get the feel for BMF better, and you won't risk the learning process as much on your project.

Practice... practice... practice..!!

Good luck...!

Edited May 2, 2014 by Davemodeltech

[Funkster]

How long do I let the paint go til I start to use the bmf?

[freakshow12]

I usually won't foil for at least a week but part of paint lifting is the prep before paint but that is a whole different topic. I echo the others that a fresh blade and the weight of the knife is all it takes. Also, when you burnish it down don't go much past the edge of the trim. On windows I burnish the high points really well but only lightly on the edge. Then after it's cut and the excess is gone I finish burnishing it down. That way very little is ever stuck to the paint very well. Also I black out the sides of my blades with a sharpie so I can see where I'm cutting

[slusher]

Enamel paint and clear will need more time the Lacquers. Like Fred at least a week but 2 will not hurt.

[cartpix]

The paint pulling up, may be from the paint not getting enough "bite" into the body. Did you sand the body, before you painted it? Did you use primer? If so, did you sand the primer?

[Brett Barrow]

Did you spray the gloss lacquer over a gloss enamel basecoat? If you don't get the timing right, the dissimilar paints won't bond to each other. If you're going to spray a clear over a gloss, you have to do it early, before the base is fully cured, or you have to scuff the base coat (or use a flat) so that there's a mechanical bond between the two.

[Danno]

Everyone has offered great advice. The only thing I would add is: Don't give up! It gets easier the more you do it.