hobbybobby Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) Cop Out Feast your eyes on the Cop Out...drag strip version of a far out police car! The body of this mean looking Plymouth Duster funny car tilts up to expose the detailed chassis, driver's compartment and big blown 426 Hemi mill. Giant M&H "wrinkled" slicks ride on deep chromed mags, topping it off, a lineup of the very latest emergency lights. Tom Daniel had developed a cutting edge "Funny Car" Chassis for the '57 Chevy kit "Outcast"... ... and the powers, that be at Monogram wanted to utilize that chassis under some other kind of car Body, so TD thought, that was a kind of a cop out; and he wasn't too thrilled about using the Plymouth Duster body, so "COP OUT" it became, complete with Cop car accouterments... We had a contest on the Coffin Corner 2 - board and my friend Chuck (Starry Eyes) challenged me, to build just for fun a boxstock kit during the contest... ... this was my choice... No idea when I built the last time a kit from start to finish, original, and only with the parts out of the box... Believe it or not, this was certainly a challenge for me! I caught myself several times, as I wanted to replace some parts by others and to improve it in some places... And somehow, did almost nothing be from this build, somehow, the building was difficult, and I had doubts whether I can complete it on time... But here it is done and except for a few color changes, Boxstock... Hope, you like it. Edited May 3, 2014 by hobbybobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbybobby Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbybobby Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
am73grand Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 What a beautifully cleanly built model!!! You did a great job on this and should be very proud. I love it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Boy Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Great job Boban. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PappyD340 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Another very NICE build Boban!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragfreak Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 How is the kit itself fitment wise? It certainly looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davewilly Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Looks pretty nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchP Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Boban: This is a great example of a clean, proper stock drag kit build IMO. I managed to get ahold of the older LAPD funny car/pro stock/whatever Camaro which has the engine mounted a bit forward ahead of the windshield. I like the fact that Monogram made such little details like wrinkle wall slicks, a big HEMI and nice tinwork available right out of the box. Your paint on the steering wheel looks just like wood and the assembly is really clean, I mean really. I used to own the same year Duster in H.S.; my first car, in lime "grabber" green with a 318 and a 3sp manual on the tree LOL. One question though - what black paint did you shoot with, shaker can or pump sprayer and did you use any clearcoat or polishing kit? I've only painted one kit before and used the vinyl floor wash & protect product to provide a clear protective shine. Quite a few others here have tried it, and it worked o.k., but now I've had professional decals made for my last two completed builds and need to pick a clearcoat to put on over the paints. Both were shot with shaker can Testors "One Coat" and when I tried to apply my first mist coat of Testors clear, there was some kind of reaction. Not only did a couple of bubbles come out on top, the the entire driver's side door had spots of irregular clear. I let it dry, wet sanded the problem areas with 3600 and after a couple hours I reshot the original base coat color with several mist coats and another two wet coats for evenness. Can you recommend any shaker clear coats which are predictable and not hot, or do you use the Novus polishing system or something else? Sorry for so many q's but your work is great like others here and the only way to learn is by asking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Nice model, great build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Good looking Plymouth FC! Building Box Stock can be a challenge (I believe I'd have trouble building Box Stock, too), but you did a great job with it. Nice paint job and good work with the decals, they fit nicely on the body shapes. How did you paint the grille? The silver "ribs" look so clean and even. Did you paint it first with silver and then by adding black wash, or....? I've built the same kit years ago and I remember it had no major fit issues. The frame was a bit tricky to assemble, but maybe it was because I was not very experienced back then. This makes me want to buy another one and build it better than I did before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Very cool and sharp build.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFchronos Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Awesome build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbybobby Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Thank you very much for the kind words! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disabled modeler Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 I like it.... May of the Monogram show rods are underrated in my opinion...most of them build into nice models and are fun to build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbybobby Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 How is the kit itself fitment wise? It certainly looks good. I have this one also never built before, so... This is the box: The kit was sealed, so, first of all, a little control of the parts, and a first glimpse of what to expect ... On the whole, it's a great kit, many parts, some are very detailed. The body had some unevenness and multiple visible seams and requires the most work, finally the body is the first thing you see... ... the usual, filling, sanding, filling, sanding... Here is one more reason, why I use very rarely, these tires from the kits... First, because they are in two parts... ... and secondly because they often look like this: ... and requires a lot of unexpected work again... When applying the decals, I was about three times on the verge to throw it against the wall... Really, I rarely had so much trouble to solve these decals from the backing sheet and even attach it to the model in one piece... No idea what it is, bad glue, old Age... ... the flames, for example, broke into five pieces... ... they are just bad... ... and one more Thing... ... who in the world makes decals, with black lettering (Hooker), to install it on a black car? Only stupid... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbybobby Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) Boban: This is a great example of a clean, proper stock drag kit build IMO. I managed to get ahold of the older LAPD funny car/pro stock/whatever Camaro which has the engine mounted a bit forward ahead of the windshield. I like the fact that Monogram made such little details like wrinkle wall slicks, a big HEMI and nice tinwork available right out of the box. Your paint on the steering wheel looks just like wood and the assembly is really clean, I mean really. I used to own the same year Duster in H.S.; my first car, in lime "grabber" green with a 318 and a 3sp manual on the tree LOL. One question though - what black paint did you shoot with, shaker can or pump sprayer and did you use any clearcoat or polishing kit? I've only painted one kit before and used the vinyl floor wash & protect product to provide a clear protective shine. Quite a few others here have tried it, and it worked o.k., but now I've had professional decals made for my last two completed builds and need to pick a clearcoat to put on over the paints. Both were shot with shaker can Testors "One Coat" and when I tried to apply my first mist coat of Testors clear, there was some kind of reaction. Not only did a couple of bubbles come out on top, the the entire driver's side door had spots of irregular clear. I let it dry, wet sanded the problem areas with 3600 and after a couple hours I reshot the original base coat color with several mist coats and another two wet coats for evenness. Can you recommend any shaker clear coats which are predictable and not hot, or do you use the Novus polishing system or something else? Sorry for so many q's but your work is great like others here and the only way to learn is by asking! No cause, Mitch, you're welcome, I'm glad to help if I can... The body had some unevenness and multiple visible seams and requires the most work... ... the usual, filling, sanding, filling, sanding... in my opinion, is the preparation of the body, the most important thing about a paintjob... ... if everything here is correct, fine and clean, polished, washed and free of any grease, then it will be great... Something that is important: before priming, I carve all the lines again, with a scriber... Since my decals were not so great, I decided to paint the body first in White, Spray can, matte White / primer... ... then taping... ... because I was at it, taping bit more... ... then black, Tamiya, Spray can, TS 14 (synthetic -lacquer spray paints for plastic models) ... ... and when the paint was still wet, the taping comes back down... Then i taped the body for the silver parts on the front... Step after this, I apply a layer of clear coat, again Tamiya, Spray can, TS 13... Thereafter, the decals come on the body... Ending with a few layers of clear coat, again Tamiya, Spray can, TS 13... Depending on how it looks already, I apply some wax and polish a bit with a cotton pad (such that are used in the application and the removal of makeup)... That's all... PS: PREP THE CAN Put your paint can for 10 minutes in a bucket of hot water prior to painting, not in boiling but in hot water... ... and then shake, shake & shake some more. Shake your spray can at least a full minute before painting (longer if you havent used the can in a while) It's a real pain but there's nothign worse than your paint coming out chunky because it wasn't properly shaken... Edited May 9, 2014 by hobbybobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Nice! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbybobby Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Good looking Plymouth FC! Building Box Stock can be a challenge (I believe I'd have trouble building Box Stock, too), but you did a great job with it. Nice paint job and good work with the decals, they fit nicely on the body shapes. How did you paint the grille? The silver "ribs" look so clean and even. Did you paint it first with silver and then by adding black wash, or....? I've built the same kit years ago and I remember it had no major fit issues. The frame was a bit tricky to assemble, but maybe it was because I was not very experienced back then. This makes me want to buy another one and build it better than I did before. After I applied the black, I left the parts open I wanted to have in silver and covered the rest... After the silver, I applied a few coats of clear, then a little diluted version of matt black that comes between the ribs, and finally, the very strong dilute matte black for the rest... ... and I wash not... ... I'm typing with the brush tip into the respective groove, the rest makes the capillary action... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Awesome job, looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay t. Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I wonder how long the light bar and spotlights would last going down the strip? Seriously,you did an outstanding job building it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPolli Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Very Nice and clean build! Seeing a build like this motivates me to go to the work bench. Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbybobby Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 Thank you very much for the kind words! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romell R Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Cop Out was the second model I ever built (42 years ago when I was 5) I dont remember my first model but i was allowed to pick my second one and I picked Cop Out. I plan to build one with a brass chassis in 1/16th scale as soon as i finish the ProMod im workin on now. Very nice job with your build keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybill1960 Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Certain is a Great build of a Tom Daniels kit Thank You for sharing with Us Later Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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