mike 51 Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 Very nice.....I must of seen one just like it back in the day a lot, it looks very familar. Probably a nieghbor owned one.
peekay Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 That's looking beautiful already, the blue is quite special.
tbill Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 stunning color combo. looks fabulous, can't wait to see it all foiled out.
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 22, 2015 Author Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks guys! Started foiling last night & either I was tired, or there is some "funky" trim on this Ford I spent a half an hour on one front fender spear, replacing it twice, & I'm still not happy with it! The rest of the side trim was a breeze, but those head light bezels......Ouch!! Luckily the '58 Ford was a bit "lighter" in the trim department so foiling it shouldn't be a huge job. Steve
horsepower Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 If you don't want to mix paints (And I fully understand that!) see if you can find U-POL Clear, it's the closest you'll get to a 2-Part Urethane without having to mix anything. It comes in a huge rattle-can, and lays down just as smooth as Nason without the mixing. You'll need a respirator or mask with good ventilation though, it's very strong, and it's hard to find sometimes, but worth it if you can get your hands on some! Just a warning to any and all considering using the two part urethane paints. THERE IS NO RESPIRATOR THAT REMOVES THE HARMFUL CHEMICALS FROM THE AIR, WHAT IS CONFUSING IS THEY CAN REMOVE THE SMELL AND GIVE YOU THE FALSE SECURITY. THE ONLY TOTALLY SAFE WAY TO PAINT THESE IS WITH A FRESH AIR MASK, BUT USING A GOOD FAN TO BLOW THE AIR AWAY FROM YOU, AND ONLY SPRAYING THEM OUTDOORS WILL WORK OUT FOR YOU SINCE WE ARE ONLY USING SUCH SMALL AMOUNTS AT A TIME. The reason I did this in caps is I was one of the first auto body painters to start using a lot of urethane paints when DuPont first released the Imron line in the late seventies, it was almost two years before finding out about the fact that the respirators didn't actually protect you from the harmful effects of those paints that I purchased a fresh air mask that uses a forced air mask, it took another two years before discovering that the effects of the chemicals are cumulative, I quit doing painting for a living in 1980, because I got tired of waking up feeling like someone was sitting on my chest. It hasn't completely gone away, but I still have problems, I can't smell some things that everyone else can, and my sinuses are a mess. It's been thirty five years ago that I stopped painting for a living and I'm still paying for the things we didn't know about urethane paints, I'm just trying to keep someone else from having the same problems I have.
horsepower Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 Whats the best way to remove those floor plugs? Great build BTW I've had pretty good luck using two different tools, one is a scraper that came from Harbor Freight in a set, it's about 1/4" wide with a slight angle to each end, and the ends are beveled to a sharp edge and the angle on each end is opposite to the other end so it's easier to get into different areas, the other one is a flat blade for Xacto #2 handles and I think it's supposed to be a gouge, but is for carving. It works good for me when I use it like a scraper, pulling it across the plugs instead of trying to cut them away by using the blade normally.
Custom Mike Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks for that info Del, I had no idea the Respirator wasn't keeping the bad stuff out!
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 22, 2015 Author Posted February 22, 2015 Just a warning to any and all considering using the two part urethane paints. THERE IS NO RESPIRATOR THAT REMOVES THE HARMFUL CHEMICALS FROM THE AIR, WHAT IS CONFUSING IS THEY CAN REMOVE THE SMELL AND GIVE YOU THE FALSE SECURITY. THE ONLY TOTALLY SAFE WAY TO PAINT THESE IS WITH A FRESH AIR MASK, BUT USING A GOOD FAN TO BLOW THE AIR AWAY FROM YOU, AND ONLY SPRAYING THEM OUTDOORS WILL WORK OUT FOR YOU SINCE WE ARE ONLY USING SUCH SMALL AMOUNTS AT A TIME. The reason I did this in caps is I was one of the first auto body painters to start using a lot of urethane paints when DuPont first released the Imron line in the late seventies, it was almost two years before finding out about the fact that the respirators didn't actually protect you from the harmful effects of those paints that I purchased a fresh air mask that uses a forced air mask, it took another two years before discovering that the effects of the chemicals are cumulative, I quit doing painting for a living in 1980, because I got tired of waking up feeling like someone was sitting on my chest. It hasn't completely gone away, but I still have problems, I can't smell some things that everyone else can, and my sinuses are a mess. It's been thirty five years ago that I stopped painting for a living and I'm still paying for the things we didn't know about urethane paints, I'm just trying to keep someone else from having the same problems I have. I'm thinking now, maybe I'll just stick with the lacquers. Steve
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 22, 2015 Author Posted February 22, 2015 I've had pretty good luck using two different tools, one is a scraper that came from Harbor Freight in a set, it's about 1/4" wide with a slight angle to each end, and the ends are beveled to a sharp edge and the angle on each end is opposite to the other end so it's easier to get into different areas, the other one is a flat blade for Xacto #2 handles and I think it's supposed to be a gouge, but is for carving. It works good for me when I use it like a scraper, pulling it across the plugs instead of trying to cut them away by using the blade normally. That's how I used the curved blade shown. I scraped it across the plugs at a 45 degree angle rather than cutting or gouging. Takes awhile, but it worked quite well. Steve
66belair Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 That is one nice looking car, I don't think I have ever seen a 58 in person. Simply beautiful.
John Goschke Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 Thanks guys! Started foiling last night & either I was tired, or there is some "funky" trim on this Ford I spent a half an hour on one front fender spear, replacing it twice, & I'm still not happy with it! The rest of the side trim was a breeze, but those head light bezels......Ouch!! Luckily the '58 Ford was a bit "lighter" in the trim department so foiling it shouldn't be a huge job. Steve You could take the easy way out on the bezels, Steve, since chrome bezels were an optional accessory on all '58 Fords, even the top-line Fairlane 500!
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 23, 2015 Author Posted February 23, 2015 You could take the easy way out on the bezels, Steve, since chrome bezels were an optional accessory on all '58 Fords, even the top-line Fairlane 500! Thanks John, but already done. Actually, they don't look half bad! I had to do each one with 3 pieces of foil! I'll just paint the buckets. Steve
John Goschke Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 Nice work, Steve! Multiple pieces are the way to go on those small areas with lots of inside and outside curves. That color combo is definitely making me nostalgic for my old Fairlane 500 Town Sedan (sniff, sniff ).
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 This interior has been the proverbial "silk purse from a sows ear" scenario! But it certainly looks better than it started out. I scratch built some door panel trim, added a set of PE window cranks, painted & flocked. At least it will pass as an "interior" now. Finally moving along at a fair clip with this project! Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll be finished up, or at least very close. Stay tuned! Steve
Ramfins59 Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Steve, instead of using those flat PE interior cranks and handles try getting the resin ones from Norm Veber. They have "dimension" to them and IMHO look a lot better and more realistic. You can either paint them chrome silver, or spray them with either Alclad or SpazStix, which I have yet to try.
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 Let me know where I can get them Rich. Is there a website or something? There are times when I could use them. I used these because I happened to have these left over from a '60 Ford set. I'll be using the rear view mirror & one of the "Fairlane 500" scripts for the conny kit as well. steve
afx Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Here are the handles and widow cranks. Very nice work on the build Steve.
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 Here are the handles and widow cranks. Very nice work on the build Steve. Ok. Now, how do i find some? I can't find anywhere online where I can get them, or for that matter, anyplace where I can see what he offers, other than Fotki pages. Steve
Ramfins59 Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) Steve, you'll have to send Norm Veber an email at: ReplMinCoMD@aol.com and order the parts (and a catalog = $3.00 ?) He unfortunately doesn't have a website or pictures of his stuff, but, like Modelhaus' resin products you can be sure of excellent quality. I believe the price for the door handles and window cranks is $5.50. I just ordered 3 pkgs. that I'll pick up from him at the NNL East show. I like to have enough on hand for all of the older 50's kits and promos that I work on I believe that Norm will only be a "spectator" at this year's NNL because he said that he is trying to catch up on all of his current orders. His is a "one man shop" and his stuff is so good that he has trouble keeping up with all the orders. I give him credit for wanting to fill his order backlog before wanting to produce stock to sell at a big show, although it would be great for him if he could manage to do both. Edited February 28, 2015 by Ramfins59
slusher Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Very nice detailed interior Steve. looks great..
Tom Geiger Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 I'll echo that I also use those same interior door handles from Replicas & Miniatures of MD in my builds. They are amazingly perfect for such small resin pieces and I don't know how he sells them so cheap for the volume in each bag! Here they are mounted for painting. That base is one of those small paper bathroom cups. I just poked holes in it for the perfect paint stand.
tbill Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 interior is breath taking, excellent work! I too will echo the comments on Norms door handles, incredible parts, details in them are unreal for such small parts. in my opinion, the best part is the little 'stubs' on the back of them, drill a small hole, push them thru, glue from the back, awesome parts, buy with confidence.
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