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Hey guys, I recently started building again. I started with a Nascar Ford Taurus. I bought it thru ebay. When it arrived the box was partly smashed and had been opened. I started having trouble when I was putting the rollcage together. The parts would not line up for assembly. I finally got it to stay together. Then it came time for the decals-they are about 3/4 length of the body. I got ready to apply them, and when I attempted to put them on the side of the car,they began to tear apart. I used a decal solution, so I am thinking maybe the decals might have aged. The small ones were easy to do. Needless to say, no more Nascar kits for a while.

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The older the kit.. The older the decals. I don't build nascars but I'm fairly sure there are modern after-market companies that make very good quality decals for NASCAR kits, both new & old.

Worth investigating if you're into doing more of them ??

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Because we all know that 10+ year old decals should be in perfect condition.

Well i bought about 30 Chimneyville decal sheets 14 or so years ago, all kept together, in plastic leaves in a folder....all bought at the same time, same seller. I cut out, placed in water some FHP decals............all broke up on the sheet, totally no use. I then opened the 2nd pack of them i also had, worked perfectly welll..............

Humidity and sunlight can affect decals but i doubt basic normal care would damage them

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I do the exact same thing, Jules. Put all my good sheets in a folder with plastic sheets & in a good safe Tupperware box, in a nice cool draw. Never sees sunlight. What you need to remember though is, technology has come a long way & with that so had quality. Today's decals are much more resilient & far better quality than previous years/kits decal sheets. If you're using old stock it's probably a good idea to lightly clear coat them first ??

Cheers Cliff

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This talk about coating decals before using them. Can someone tell me more about?

Scott

Scott... It's really only necessary if you think the decals you want to use are fragile/old. If you clear coat them first ( acrylic or lacquer ) thinly, this coating will strengthen them & less chance of breakage ??

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Scott... It's really only necessary if you think the decals you want to use are fragile/old. If you clear coat them first ( acrylic or lacquer ) thinly, this coating will strengthen them & less chance of breakage

I'm still not really understanding this. Can you spray clear coat from a can? Or would I be better off with a thin coat of something like Future acrylic floor wax? And doesn't the clear coat wet the decals? Or keep them from getting wet when you do dip them?

Scott

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I'm still not really understanding this. Can you spray clear coat from a can? Or would I be better off with a thin coat of something like Future acrylic floor wax? And doesn't the clear coat wet the decals? Or keep them from getting wet when you do dip them?

Scott

I'm assuming you can use a spray can... I don't use cans I use my a/b. I don't know what this Future Floor wax stuff is, so you'll have to ask someone with knowledge of it.

You are clear coating 1 side of the decal... Not both ? You can't spray the side that gets put on the body etc.... Ahhhhh..... ? Lol

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Interesting. A couple of more questions. How does this effect using a decal setting solution like Micro Sol or others? How flexible are decals for going around contours and such after clear coating them?

As far as our friend over in Australia, Future is a clear acrylic liquid floor wax sold in this country. A lot of modelers over here use it to clear coat models. Some air brush it on. Most people I know, just use brush a coat on using cotton balls out of all things. This stuff is great. It's self leveling. Dries fairly fast. It does not yellow the way some other clear coats do. And since it's made for floors, it's pretty tough. On the kitchen floor it may wear off in a few months. But, as long as you don't step on your models, it works pretty good.

Scott

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Scott, personally I don't know of any effects, with contouring & the setting solution, because I've never had to do the clear coating on any decals I've used in the past. ? But I know there's quite a few guys that do. As for Future... I know of it, as many guys here use it, but I couldn't comment on it's wear/tear/sturdiness etc because I've never used it. Quite happy with using BASF Glasurit Auto 2-pack that I have ??

Hopefully someone else can provide the information you seek regarding contouring/setting solution issues ( if any? )

Cliff

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys! I had a D.I. who told me that the only stupid question, is the one that isn't asked. Took that to heart, probably why I survived. Anyway, I have been trying to find Pledge With Future on the label. I can't find it. I see products, but none with that label. Can I use one that doesn't have that label. I saw a guy on Youtube using the kind I mentioned. Would appreciate your help. Happy Fathers Day to you Pops out there. Tmrrw I get a double burger-Fathers Day and my Birthday. Nice n cool here-mid 90's

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Future will do a great job of coating them as will the laquer/enamel clear coat, though that last one is fraught with danger I believe.

you can also buy decal protector from the same company who makes microsol and microset.

before using decals cut a piece off the sheet that you wont be using and stick it in some water to see if it holds together. or just pretty much do as I do and coat them as a matter of course.

coating does make it so you have to trim carefully through the protector film and down into or through the paper surrounding the decal. trim close enough that the edge you leave will be acceptable on the part receiving it, when it is put down.

another funny thing about decals, those instructions we all typically ignore, turn out to be right. don't just let your decal soak in the water (though that might be necessary with the protector layer in place or with exceptionally old decals), just dip them into the water for about 10 seconds and then put them on a slightly damp paper towel for a couple minutes. maybe sprinkle a little water on them time to time. then they should slip right off the paper and they wont break apart so easily I have found. (its that first test of whether they have released from the backing or not that will get you though)

no guarantees of course but not having to use an overcoat really makes them a lot easier to use. but if they are going to burst into a million smithereens, you really got no choice.

jb

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Mr. Just. How dare you suggest we follow directions! Yeh, that came up in our last MCCM meeting. I mentioned that I followed directions on a kit that another member had just built, and did not have the same problems he had. There was then a lot of joking and teasing about reading and following instructions. Your right, the instructions are there for a reason. And after almost 50 years of building, I find that it still helps for me to stop and read the directions.

Scott Aho

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Samuel (And Scott), Testors makes an excellent Decal Bonder in a spray can, I've used it many times with great results. It's the only thing in a Testors rattle-can that I can actually spray and not make a mess! It works great with Micro-Sol and Miro-Set too, get a can and try it!

Edited by Custom Mike
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