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Walt's Puffer Too T-Bucket Altered


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Thanks Chris and Michael. They aren't attached just yet but I've drilled an appropriate sized hole in the upper end of the aluminum rod to accept the smaller diameter brass rod. Once I'm done making the individual headers and the flange is Alcladed (is that a word??), I'll use Zap-A-Gap to put it all together. I still need to drill holes in the heads on the built up engine to accept the brass rod pins. I'm using an extra Miss Deal hemi head for the spacing.

Stay tuned.

Edited by gasser59
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I likes it Brad. New tip for me using the craft wire. I've been using solder, but I like that look a lot better.

So ya' know, I'm still a couple of weeks away from getting back to the bench. Not to mention it's hard to find my desk in this cluster.

Worst of all, most of my Minions bailed on me. Something about, "Nothing evil going down right now." Or whatever, "Cheereet kindo meleface waawaa!!!", means?

I've sent one loyal follower out to track them all down.

20150703_150331.jpg

Actually, I got all the stuff to make it from Build A Bear during a mall sidetrack.

Finally, for informational purposes Brother Mr. Teresi, it took me about a half an hour to compose this one. That'll be $30.00.

P. S. I had to edit this. That'll be another 10 bucks.

Edited by Nitrozilla
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OK, changed my mind on the aluminum craft wire. Too small of diameter and just didn't look beefy enough. Going to try my hand at soldering up some in brass tubing. With a number of the other builders here that I really aspire to achieve a minimum of their skill sets here are using brass so its about time for me to try it.

Stay tuned again.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Alright fellas, a bit of some lag time while waiting for a smaller Weller soldering iron tip to come in. Then my laptop hard drive went out on me and that's the one that has the camera software on it. I've been working on the brass exhaust but finding an appropriate sized tubing bender was a challenge so I made an adapter for the new one I ordered from an R/C place in utah. I'll take some pictures and show you guys how it all worked out. I'm really happy with the results. I started to solder the pipes up yesterday with the new smaller soldering iron tip. I also purchased a chrome electro-plating kit from Micro-Mark for these so we'll see how that goes.

 

Stay tuned. I should have my laptop back this week, at last I hope so.

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Finally some pics although not the best quality since I used my phone. They'll have to do.

 

Here's the tubing bender. It's a Du-Bro made for 1/8" tubing and comes with four 3" pieces of brass tubing. The package says it will also bend smaller but in truth, it kinks the tubing. I ordered this from R/C Planet in Sandy, Utah, part number DUB785. Its a very well made bender and with the adapter, it will bend two different sizes.

After some serious contemplation, I realized I could use the 1/8" tubing that came with the bender and make an adapter. I bent it 90 degrees and cut off the top of the bend.

Here it is in place.

And with the smaller tubing inside the adapter.

After all of that, here's the result. I'm really happy with the results.

 

Hope to get more of the other set of pipes done this weekend and then, just maybe, some electroplating done.

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Hi Brad,

Good that you found a decent tube bender.  Better is though, you found out a way to use smaller tube with that tool. 

I used that thing on my Bantam headers which are of 2.5mm tube.  I checked a US converter and this came out to between 3/32" and 7/64".  Geez, that is not very accurate.  I prefer the metric system.  I buy only brass tubing that slide fits, and then the various solid rods that go between all of the different diameter tubing.  I was then able to push a solid rod into the tube and it bent without making a crease.  Better even to heat up the brass till it glows and then quench to soften it up.  Later heat the metal up again the same way and let it air cool, then it's back to normal.

I just finished up the headers on my project and these things are not easy to do by any means.

Your's look good.  Good too that you've found some time to progress.

Michael

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So that's how you use it.  I bought one of those several years ago Brad and never got the results you did.  But the "trick" you used to make your headers makes perfect sense and it obviously works.  I'll be sure to try out your method when I do my funny car.   Nice job on those and thanks for sharing.   Cheers, Tim

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Brad.... those are the tube benders I have. I have two.. one for 1/8" OD tube and one for 5/32" OD tube that i have used on my funny car.  I will tell you what I have found out.  the sample pieces they send along with tube bender is just a tad different by this I am talking about the wall thickness of the tube.  Typically what we all pretry much get at the hobby store from K&S is .014" wall thickness. They do make tubes with thicker wall thickness. The samples that Dubro supplies were either .019"  or .020" wall. When I bemt he sample pieces I had no problems and no kinking of the tube. Now when I bent the K&S .014" wall tubes I did get some kinking. I just wanted to let you and everyone know of my findings.

I got to tell you buddy that those headers are looking great and I love what you did by making a mandrel for smaller size tubing to fit in the tube bender. I think I am going to have to steal that Idea from you if you don't mind.

 

 

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I got to tell you buddy that those headers are looking great and I love what you did by making a mandrel for smaller size tubing to fit in the tube bender. I think I am going to have to steal that Idea from you if you don't mind.

 

 

Help yourself. I have no problem with you borrowing my idea.

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