Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

WOW !!! a stock Opel GT ....built beautifully .....I picked up two and a half of these at a model show ...I think ..anyhow not sure how I'm going to build them, but I'm sure at least one will have a very large engine in it with BIG tires on the back ....LOL

Posted

Thanks fellas!

Very nice! One suggestion, the trim around the tail lights should be chrome. How about engine pics? I am starting my second one of these, same color scheme, but slotted wheels from AMT's 69 Corvair. What color did you use?

Thanks Lee. I just looked at pictures of the 1:1, I see what you mean about the chrome around the tail lights. I missed that when I was researching this car. Do you think the raised area on the kit body is too big? The chrome rings seem fairly subtle on the 1:1. The paint is Testors "Competition Orange".

Posted

I will post a pic of mine tomorrow. You also got the rear bumpers reversed and upside down.

Those are the "custom" bumpers. That is how they are supposed to go. I had already installed them before you helped me find the stock ones.

Posted

Looks like the "custom" bumpers are the stock bumpers mounted upside-down!

opel-gt_zpsf2b2e5fd.jpg

It does look like that at first glance. If you look closely, tho, you will see that if the stock bumpers were turned upside down, the bumper guards would cover part of the tail light. Also there is some curvature to the pan below the lights, while the area beside the license plate is basically flat. This kit is a "3 in 1", stock, custom, drag. I used the "custom" ones. I would have preferred to use the stock bumpers, but I thought they were missing from the kit until Lee helped me find them. The way they are molded on the sprue, I thought they were a custom front grille! Oh well, sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you.

Posted

It does look like that at first glance. If you look closely, tho, you will see that if the stock bumpers were turned upside down, the bumper guards would cover part of the tail light. Also there is some curvature to the pan below the lights, while the area beside the license plate is basically flat. This kit is a "3 in 1", stock, custom, drag. I used the "custom" ones. I would have preferred to use the stock bumpers, but I thought they were missing from the kit until Lee helped me find them. The way they are molded on the sprue, I thought they were a custom front grille! Oh well, sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you.

You're right on the custom bumpers... they are shaped differently than the stock ones. The kit is wrong on the taillights, though. The embossed rings around the taillights/turn signals on the model (what are supposed to be the chrome bezels) actually intersect on the model. On the real car there is a gap between the taillights and turn signals. The kit taillights are also way too big. None of that is your fault, of course... it's bad kit design.

Posted

i agree with you about the tail lights, Harry. I think if I had noticed the chrome bezels in the first place, I would have drilled the holes a little bigger and put in a piece of aluminum tubing for a bezel. BTW, I put a mirror on it, just for you! :D

Posted

Very nice model, Hugh.

Not much you could do about the taillights without major surgery.

Use a small round grinding bit in a Dremel to remove the molded-in trim rings... glue a piece of sheet styrene onto the back (inside) of the rear panel with liquid cement... fill in the existing holes with discs cut from sheet styrene glued to the new "backer plate"... add Bondo... sand the rear panel smooth... drill new holes for lights in the correct size and location. Use rings cut from aluminum tube for the bezels.

Another way to go: Use a Dremel to remove the entire existing rear panel, make a new one of sheet styrene, drill for lights, glue in place, Bondo, sand, etc.

A bit of work, but not "major surgery" at all.

An even easier way to go: fill in existing holes, smooth the back panel, put BMF on the back sides of the light lenses... then just glue the kit lenses and new aluminum tube bezels in place on the surface using clear acrylic as your "glue." No need to even drill new holes. Super simple.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...