I tried Alcad 2 ...and it is pretty good!

[Brett Barrow]

I've always felt that Alclad looks more "in scale" than kit chrome. Like all things in this hobby, it takes practice.

[Sixx]

On my black base coat, I clear it first before the Alclad chrome. I use a cheap 2 part eurathane clear, polish that up, then shoot the chrome

[Guest]

Actually that's not correct. Apparently you missed this part of purepmd's quote: The trick to the Alclad is very low pressure; 8-10 psi, and such light coats that you cannot even see the mist. You have to watch the part very closely to see the shine appear.

Still, you have to primer, paint and spray twenty to thirty light coats of paint on a part that only costs $1.25 to have re plated. It's not worth it IMO.

[Quick GMC]

Still, you have to primer, paint and spray twenty to thirty light coats of paint on a part that only costs $1.25 to have re plated. It's not worth it IMO.

No, you don't. You're off by 17-27 coats. Where did you even get the idea you need to spray that much? It's beyond absurd.

1 coat primer, 2 coats black base, 1-3 coats alclad. That's 6 total. They can all be done in the same day and you can move on with your model.

On my black base coat, I clear it first before the Alclad chrome. I use a cheap 2 part eurathane clear, polish that up, then shoot the chrome

I wanted to try this, but completely forgot. Have you found it makes a difference?

[Guest]

No, you don't. You're off by 17-27 coats. Where did you even get the idea you need to spray that much? It's beyond absurd.

1 coat primer, 2 coats black base, 1-3 coats alclad. That's 6 total. They can all be done in the same day and you can move on with your model.

Ummm.. from Monty's post explaining how someone else did it. Page one. I don't/won't use Alclad myself. Like I said. Not worth the hassle.

[Monty]

Ummm.. from Monty's post explaining how someone else did it. Page one. I don't/won't use Alclad myself. Like I said. Not worth the hassle.

Yes, I posted up a friend's results to refute the contention that Alclad only works well on smaller parts. Why would he lie about the number of light mist coats it took to get that kind of shine? He figured out a way to get a remarkable shine, and I'd say it's kinda hard to argue with the results.

Sure, you can always just pay for the plating & shipping costs when you send your parts off, but to the best of my knowledge there are only two places who take this kind of work on, and and you may be waiting 4-6 weeks (based on other threads I've read) to get them back. In addition, members of various modeling forums have posted poorly done work from both places, shown that sending them off for plating is no guarantee against cr@ppy work.

Meanwhile, with a little effort...

[StevenGuthmiller]

I guess it's all up to interpretation. Some prefer Alclad, others chrome. I use both depending on application. I believe a good builder will use anything & everything at his disposal. That being said, I'm not sure how chrome can be "out of scale" Brett. Steve

[Guest]

Yes, I posted up a friend's results to refute the contention that Alclad only works well on smaller parts. Why would he lie about the number of light mist coats it took to get that kind of shine? He figured out a way to get a remarkable shine, and I'd say it's kinda hard to argue with the results.

Sure, you can always just pay for the plating & shipping costs when you send your parts off, but to the best of my knowledge there are only two places who take this kind of work on, and and you may be waiting 4-6 weeks (based on other threads I've read) to get them back. In addition, members of various modeling forums have posted poorly done work from both places, shown that sending them off for plating is no guarantee against cr@ppy work.

Meanwhile, with a little effort...

I didn't say he lied about it. Read all of the posts. I mentioned his process and then got quoted and told I was wrong by Quick GMC. I also agree with him that twenty to thirty coats is absurd no matter how thin the paint is. I've had many parts re plated and only got one bumper that wasn't perfect. All I had to do was send it back and it came back perfect. So, Dale at LittleMotorKarCo does guarantee his work. You can bet your kit stash that if I (or anyone else) had sprayed these bumpers and wheel covers with Alclad, they wouldn't look like this.

I'll pay $5 per bumper/grille and $1.25 per wheel all day long.

[Cato]

Off on a slight tangent here.

I just left the spray area where I applied Alclad II to my Roll's firewall which was a large aluminum casting in 1:1.

Now I wasn't after pure chrome-like results. I actually mixed 3 drops gold, and roughly 50 / 50 white aluminum and chrome, applied over TS-14 black.. Alclad, shot lightly is a nice finish and easy to work with if you keep all the equipment spotless.

Sadly the result came out a soft, light, almost magnesium finish with a nice sheen. I then went back with pure chrome and hit the raised edges. That was a better look for a natural large casting. Would have been brighter but went over the previous gray finish, not the black base.

It will be in my work thread when I add the details and plumbing to the firewall.

Sorry to disrupt the chrome vs. Alclad battle.

[Quick GMC]

I didn't say he lied about it. Read all of the posts. I mentioned his process and then got quoted and told I was wrong by Quick GMC. I also agree with him that twenty to thirty coats is absurd no matter how thin the paint is. I've had many parts re plated and only got one bumper that wasn't perfect. All I had to do was send it back and it came back perfect. So, Dale at LittleMotorKarCo does guarantee his work. You can bet your kit stash that if I (or anyone else) had sprayed these bumpers and wheel covers with Alclad, they wouldn't look like this.

I'll pay $5 per bumper/grille and $1.25 per wheel all day long.

That's incredible looking.

It really all comes down to what you're more comfortable with, and what you feel is best for you.

[martinfan5]

What if I told you that there was something out there that was better than Alcald, and you didnt have to send it out to a Chrome platter?,

I forgot about this stuff, this is just one a few different version of the stuff, but its a rub, and I have seen a few do entire bodies with the stuff, and it blows Alcald away, it cost less than $20

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10011510

Here are a few pictures that were posted on Facebook, now, I cant tell what was said, as I dont speak or read the language that the poster does , but its the same product, or one of the very similar ones out there, as you can see.

Edited September 21, 2014 by martinfan5

[StevenGuthmiller]

What if I told you that there was something out there that was better than Alcald, and you didnt have to send it out to a Chrome platter?,

I forgot about this stuff, this is just one a few different version of the stuff, but its a rub, and I have seen a few do entire bodies with the stuff, and it blows Alcald away, it cost less than $20

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10011510

Here are a few pictures that were posted on Facebook, now, I cant tell what was said, as I dont speak or read the language that the poster does , but its the same product, or one of the very similar ones out there, as you can see.

Check out item #221467571175 on ebay. Buy it now price of $15.90 plus &4.80 shipping. If it works as well as it looks, it'll be well worth the $20.00 price tag! Steve

[Quick GMC]

I have it, I mentioned it earlier in the thread.

You need to prep just like alclad. Ultra smooth and ultra glossy base.

You can use any color as a base, but the base color will impact the final finish.

Over a white plastic spoon is the most accurate. Black base is nice, but darker. Blue base is nice too for exhaust detailing.

I haven't used it a lot yet. I got it from HLJ.

One thing to keep on mind is that it's essentially lead dust. If you have respiratory issues then you need to take it into account. It comes with gloves and a mask.

It's messy. VERY MESSY.

It can be better than alclad, but the prep is absolutely crucial.

Edited September 21, 2014 by Quick GMC

[sjordan2]

Compared to Alclad and not the Asian powder (Kosutte Ginsan), I have seen equally good results with spray-can SpazStixx. Admittedly, I have not used any of these.

Edited September 21, 2014 by sjordan2

[StevenGuthmiller]

I have it, I mentioned it earlier in the thread.

You need to prep just like alclad. Ultra smooth and ultra glossy base.

You can use any color as a base, but the base color will impact the final finish.

Over a white plastic spoon is the most accurate. Black base is nice, but darker. Blue base is nice too for exhaust detailing.

I haven't used it a lot yet. I got it from HLJ.

One thing to keep on mind is that it's essentially lead dust. If you have respiratory issues then you need to take it into account. It comes with gloves and a mask.

It's messy. VERY MESSY.

It can be better than alclad, but the prep is absolutely crucial.

I guess my main question would be, if you rub it on, how well will it work with parts with deep recessed areas. A plastic spoon is one thing, a 1966 chrysler front bumper & grille is another! Steve

[Quick GMC]

That's the main problem. Tamiya makes really dense pointy q tips that definitely help, but the recessed areas would be a problem. However I don't mind because those areas would have a shadow ona real car and it adds a little depth

[ChrisBcritter]

One thing to keep on mind is that it's essentially lead dust. If you have respiratory issues then you need to take it into account. It comes with gloves and a mask.

Lead? Some of the tutorials I see on YouTube refer to it as graphite.

[Quick GMC]

Lead? Some of the tutorials I see on YouTube refer to it as graphite.

It could be. I have seen shavings from a pencil being used, but not as good of results as this stuff. There has been speculation as to what it actually is.

[ChrisBcritter]

Has anyone tried to use this stuff to remove wear marks on chrome parts, and will it blend in?

[Mike_G]

Has anyone tried to use this stuff to remove wear marks on chrome parts, and will it blend in?

I use "aluminum plate" buffing metalizer for that- spray a little puddle on a piece of cardboard and let it gas out for a few seconds then rub my finger in it and tamp it on the chrome part's surface. The metalizer will stick to the plastic better than the chrome, then you just buff it and it blends right in.

[Bob Ellis]

Using Alcad and vacuum metallizing has one thing thing in common;

Before the process can begin, the plastic component is washed and coated with a base coat, so that the Alcad / metal layer is smooth and uniform.

I believe a clear coat is sprayed on the part before chroming by vacuum metallizers as opposed to a gloss black for Alcad.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Using Alcad and vacuum metallizing has one thing thing in common;

Before the process can begin, the plastic component is washed and coated with a base coat, so that the Alcad / metal layer is smooth and uniform.

I believe a clear coat is sprayed on the part before chroming by vacuum metallizers as opposed to a gloss black for Alcad.

Not sure what it is exactly that they spray on the parts before plating, but it's some sort of "yellowish" coating. Steve