Throwing in the towel.. for now

[WigWag Workshop]

Good Day Folks!

Please don't take this has a negative, but I am giving up trying to build "shiny" things for now. No matter how much I try, I just can not complete a shiny build. I have read tons of how-to's, take my time, and take it one step at a time. I always end up, mucking up the finish by the time I am about to complete a build. So I am going to take a step back, and "perfect" my weathering skills

-Steven

[DynoMight]

Hey, it's your model! Build your model how you want to build it!

[angelo7]

I am in the final stage of a truck build and in the very last clear coat (second coat), the clear comes out yellowish, and part of the body is white (yellowish now). So I feel your pain too.

Edited September 28, 2014 by angelo7

[chunkypeanutbutter]

I never make any shiny models. Possibly because I never have good clearcoat, but usually because I don't care. Weathering is more interesting to me, anyways.

[The Creative Explorer]

Even though taking a break isn't a bad thing, the only thing that stands in between your desired finish is practising. Even though once a while I make a decent finish, I still struggle and still have to learn. I had to learn a very hard lesson today.

Get yourself a couple of sparebody's and use them for practise, didn't work? too bad and take the next.

Also, I usually tackle the body first, before I really get into the build. That way, I don't have a almost completed build with a screwed up body.

[Jantrix]

I feel your pain. It's such a buzz kill when things go wrong. Paint perfect, decals perfect, clear..................... wrinkles the decals and the whole thing ends up on the dip. I did the same thing. Built a half dozen flat or weathered cars and then back to trying the shiny again. Don't give up. Come back to it later.

[crazyjim]

SHINY :) RULES!

[High octane]

I hafta agree with Jim on that. While I don't use an air-brush, a spray booth, a dehydrator, I still get good finishes out of "rattle cans." I guess I've been lucky so far.

[Snake45]

I've gotten pretty good and pretty well known for shiny finishes, but there's a lot you can do with flats, too. I've done a couple models in primer and plan to do more of them. They're fun!

Right now I have on the bench a build where I'm attempting to portray '60s factory paint, but now 4-7 years old and with little if any shine left to it. One of the Model Master factory colors, un-cleared, seems to be working pretty well for this.

[Tom Geiger]

I'm with ya! Most of what I build has patina. Both 1:1 and model cars! I just don't identify with mile deep paint and unrealistic shine!

Edited September 30, 2014 by Tom Geiger

[chunkypeanutbutter]

^ the Suburbanite tire! I only had one of em, and it found a similar home.

I just broke down and made a shiny truck. I figured I don't want to make a new truck kit all rusty.

[vintagedragcrazy]

hey tom that pa weather sure is tuff it can even rust a vette man don't you just hate when that happens

vince

[slusher]

You can always use enamel if clear coat is to hard but give enamel at least 2 weeks to dry. Another thing you can do is put masking tape on the top and both doors where you touch the most. I do this and whip my hand many times.

[southpier]

rusty 'vette . . . ha ha