tbill Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 how are you guys doing your roofs/joining back panels? are you smoothing the seams and losing the rivets, or what? got a little project started [will be doing a wip topic soon], but the joining of the panels has me a bit miffed, not sure how to go about getting rid of the seam. all suggestions welcome, and thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJ790 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I smooth out the rivets on the roof. If you look at reference pictures of the real truck the roof was smooth with no seam or rivets on the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 (edited) I removed all the "boiler rivets" off the one I built. And will do so for any future builds. As for the seam , after joining halves I laid a piece of stretched sprue to fill the valley, after using a flat hobby file there was little needed to be puttied. Edited October 21, 2014 by Old Buckaroo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtienutz Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Glue it together fill the joint them use Archer 3D Rivets decals to replace the rivets I'll talk to you Sunday night in PSAB chat about it.http://www.chatzy.com/88597274200870 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbill Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 thanks guys. KJ, I remember reading a thread here somewhere that had a pic of a roof that was smooth [on a 1:1 brochure], but I couldn't find it again. and as far as searching on line, not a lot of just roof pictures, not like it's a sexy picture opportunity, lol. Vince, thought of the archer rivet transfers, but was thinking in 'real life', the roof was rivet-less, hope to see ya on the chat soon. Sean, good looking roof! explain the filling process for me if you would, stretched sprue I get, but the application of such isn't in my skill set yet, so any more info would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goodwrench3 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I removed all the "boiler rivets" off the one I built. And will do so for any future builds. As for the seam , after joining halves I laid a piece of stretched sprue to fill the valley, after using a flat hobby file there was little needed to be puttied. What type of putty do you normally use for this kind of filling ? I've seen posts about "don't use this or that" because of shrinking over time, etc. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Two part epoxy type putties don't shrink which is great if you need a thick layer for a major fix. The cab seam can be done close enough that you don't need anything special. I use Squadron white putty for most of my filling needs and as long as you let it dry fully before sanding it shrinkage shouldn't be an issue. Also, the rivet detail on the cab is wrong so by losing you are improving the accuracy of the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I like this stuff, easy to use , easy to sand and sticks real well. You can find it at almost any auto parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petetrucker07 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Here's the roof on mine, no putty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Here's a pic of the real trucks roof Chuck Most originally posted in another thread, the only rivets are a small strip in the center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petetrucker07 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I'm not a purest. The riot detail may be wrong, but it doesn't bother me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantacmet Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I smoothed mine out for a more "custom" look, and only left the rivets on the front, seems I corrected a kit error without realizing it. Well I'll be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Here's a pic of the real trucks roof Chuck Most originally posted in another thread, the only rivets are a small strip in the center. I can't take credit for that pic- Tim Ahlborn posted that some time ago, when Round 2 reissued the Dual Drive and discussion turned to how to deal with the mutlipiece cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I'm not a purest. The riot detail may be wrong, but it doesn't bother me. I was just saying that if you can't sand around them and loose them it's not a big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I can't take credit for that pic- Tim Ahlborn posted that some time ago, when Round 2 reissued the Dual Drive and discussion turned to how to deal with the mutlipiece cab. I hadn't seen Tim post it but I had seen you link to it in another thread and I didn't want to seem to be taking credit for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gatorincebu Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Bill, What I do is to make my own filler by melting plastic in tenax or similar solvent. What I do is cut up some bits of sprue, drop them into an empty or almost empty bottle of Tenax or similar solvent. You can vary the consistency by adding plastic or solvent. To fill the gap just brush the liquid plastic into the gap and let it dry. Second application is possible if needed. If done carefully, all you need to do is sand it some and paint. I used to use the plastic dust off the workbench. But soon stopped that practice. As I found that there were bits of abrasive in the dust. Another technique is to lay a thin strip of plastic on the seam and use tenax to melt it into place. I prefer the first method, as it is neater and works well for me. Be Well Gator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 probably a little artistic work in that brochure. The aluminum roof skins were riveted to the roof framing. Have to agree that the rivets in the AMT cab may be a little larger than they need to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goodwrench3 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I like this stuff, easy to use , easy to sand and sticks real well. You can find it at almost any auto parts store. Thanks ! It's funny -- I was reading a back issue of Scale Auto (April 2013) last night and there was an article in there where he is using this exact stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goodwrench3 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Also -- thanks for the post of the brochure photo ! Would you happen to have any that show interior photos ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brinx Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 If it helps, I will try to hide seams and such with paint schemes and accent stripes. I the case of the Freightliner, I did that on the sides and hid the roof seam with a drag foiler (oooh, that might be a GMC term...lol). brinx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goodwrench3 Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 What did you guys use to glue the cab sections together ? I assume something fast drying -- i.e. CA ?? I can't see trying to clamp them in place and waiting for model cement to dry ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayton Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 be sure too sand the interior bucket,dash ends good so it will fit. Seems that over the years it has grown a bit,a belt sander worked for me. Or the cab bows out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbill Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 I used testors 'liquid' cement/glue and used some thin sheet styrene to reinforce the joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantacmet Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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