rickd13 Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 I am using Tamiya lacquer spray paint out of the can (Black TS-14). I was wondering how much time do you wait between coats? Do you wet sand between coats? If you do not wet sand between coats, how do you handle any imperfections in the paint before you apply the final coat?
B-Train Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 I wait about 15 minutes and only wet sand if there are any imperfections.
Pete J. Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 Everything you need to know about Tamiya rattle can synthetic lacquers.http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?category_id=8&type=article#.VOVsjXmBGpo
Exotics_Builder Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 I wait about 15 minutes and only wet sand if there are any imperfections. Ditto that.
Drake69 Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 Tamiya.... the bane of enamel paints everywhere.... Acryllics and lacquers are the ONLY way to paint. Such a dream to use.
High octane Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 I myself wait 'bout 20 minutes in between coats, but I'm sure only 15 minutes would work just fine also.
martinfan5 Posted February 20, 2015 Posted February 20, 2015 I am going to pass on the "Mark Taylor" way of painting with Tamiya paint from the can The entire paint job should only be done using mist coats, and you build it up that way, and in the process, you will get a smooth surface , you want to wait about 5 minutes in between mist coats, the point is that you NEVER do a wet coat.
jbwelda Posted February 20, 2015 Posted February 20, 2015 who is mark taylor? > the point is that you NEVER do a wet coat. are you (not) doing that to avoid orange peel or something? jb
martinfan5 Posted February 20, 2015 Posted February 20, 2015 who is mark taylor? > the point is that you NEVER do a wet coat. are you (not) doing that to avoid orange peel or something? jb You get a overall smoother finish is what should be the results.
Matt Bacon Posted February 20, 2015 Posted February 20, 2015 I don't know who mark Taylor is either, but I agree with him. Make sure your plastic and primer coat have no imperfections, and then repeated light coats of Tamiya acrylics will do the job. Leave the paint for at least 24 hours in an airing cupboard or dehydrator, and it'll "shrink back" as it cures to leave no sign of surface texture. And if you want to, a polish with Novus "Fine Scratch Remover" polish will bring it to a lovely lustre: bestest, M.
DaveM Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 Great paint job, Matt. How many coats did you end up using for that?
jbwelda Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 >Tamiya acrylics I don't believe we are talking about acrylics are we? I was thinking the regular Tamiya paint cans TS series, I thought that was lacquer? but I will try this method next paint job I use Tamiya paints on. it will be hard to restrain myself from a flow coat though. jb
pharoah Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 Tamiya.... the bane of enamel paints everywhere.... Acryllics and lacquers are the ONLY way to paint. Such a dream to use. I'll second that.
jbwelda Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 i have a related question: assuming one is spraying Tamiya from the can (as opposed to decanting it and using an airbrush) how does one achieve a "mist coat"? from backing away from the subject when spraying and only letting a mist of paint hit the car? because when I have done that, not necessarily with Tamiya paint, it basically makes for a very grainy surface, I assume because it is drying before it hits the surface of the model. will doing that enough achieve the aim of a smooth paint job? or is there some other secret to it. and if that is the secret, how far away from the model should the paint can be? thanks for any guidance here... jb
Erik Smith Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) Tamiya paints are very forgiving. I have found you can apply wets coats, so wet that they appear to obscure details, but not enough to run. After it dries, it's magically thinner and all the details are fine, along with a smooth paint job. As for mist coats, I just move the can faster at about the same distance if doing a wet coat. Edited February 23, 2015 by Erik Smith
jbwelda Posted February 24, 2015 Posted February 24, 2015 thank you. I would most like to hear from either of those advocating, directly or indirectly, the "Mark Taylor" method described above. How do you achieve the mist coat? jb
Pete J. Posted February 24, 2015 Posted February 24, 2015 A mist coat is achieved by putting very little paint on. That is done with a rattle can by moving across the model very quickly, not by moving back from the model. If you back away from the model you get a "dry coat" which is the beginings of orange peel. If you want to understand this better, then I repeat, read this from the Tamiya web site. http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?category_id=8&type=article#.VOvzEnmBGpp
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