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Yeah, that is way cool!
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The biggest enemy to resin is humidity. Here are a couple of photos of a vacuum chamber I built some time back. It was built out of a ten inch piece of PVC pipe I found in a dumpster at work. I added a interior LED light to better see what is going on inside. I use it to de air silicone before I pour it into a mold box and to remove humidity from my resin material. If you have attempted to try to make your own parts and the resin grows and starts to look like foam in a can it is full of humidity. Resin can reach a 160 degree temperature and the humidity will start to boil and foam up. After some time I bought a dehumidifier. After it was in use for 24 hours, the bucket was full. I could not believe how much moisture can still be in an enclosed shop even using air conditioning and also live in a dry state. A big problem with parts you may purchase that have dimples or warts on them might actually be from the silicone mold not having been de aired first. A silicone product may say that it does not need to be vacuumed but this is a CYA statement on their part. Many times I mix, vacuum and pour and vacuum again even on molds that are not very tall or thick, however you want to view it. Humidity and room temperature can effect the silicones ability to cure. I pour a small amount of silicone over a part with lots of detail like a wheel or grille or a dash and vacuum it. A small bubble can trap in detail crevices causing the part to come out with a wart on it. A small bubble can form just under the surface of the silicone next to a part too. Once pressure is applied that small area will get pushed in and a part can come out looking bad but to the eye the mold can look like there is no problem and from experience that can be frustrating to learn. Sometimes once the mold is inspected the problem is obvious but once it sets for awhile it can look normal again, A Jeckyl/Hyde affect. A air bubble tapped in silicone can be affected by normal air pressure too. if you notice a bump, stick a exacto knife blade in it to relieve the air pressure. The tubing you see has a drain valve attached to it. I usually just hold my gloved thumb over it so the vacuum draws down. The material will start growing and you want to make certain it does not go up and over the top of the container making a big mess.. The front clear cover is about a half inch thick.
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But it's a more-door. It's nice to see what others have done with this and it's nice that it's being re-released. But it's a more-door. It would have been so cool if it had been tooled as the two-door wagon.
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Wow! Simply beautiful workmanship. The paint is amazing! Great job. Later-
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This has possibilities. More background here https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2019/07/18/stroppe-built-baja-edsel-added-to-off-road-motorsports-hall-of-fame-display/#&gid=1&pid=1
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Chinese Tariffs: Effect on Injection Molded Plastic Articles Made in China
Ace-Garageguy posted a topic in General
Lately, there's been speculation about the cost of plastic kits rising due to the current administration's trade relationship with China. I recently received this communication from one of the companies in my professional network, and thought I'd pass it along to help allay fears of looming price increases. from www.ICOMold.com: The recent announcement regarding a 25% tariff on certain products coming to the United States from China has some customers wondering if that will affect their pricing. It's a fair question, considering we have a manufacturing plant in Shenzhen, China. The answer is NO, the new tariffs will not affect the price of our plastic parts, nor the pricing for injection molds imported to the U.S. from China. According to the revised Harmonized Tariff Schedule, the codes we use for injection molded plastic parts, CNC machined plastic parts, and injection molds are NOT subject to the 25% tariff, and we will not be taking any pricing action. It's also important to clarify that customer-owned injection molds that we manufacture in China, that stay in China, are not subject to tariffs. This may seem obvious, since they're not imported, but we've had customers ask about this, so we want to alleviate any concerns about production molds that stay in China. For more details, including links to these particular product categories in the schedule, please visit the China Tariffs page of our website. -
Geoff, this thing is looking sweet! Nice work with the trim.
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Excellent job on the chopped top. The finish is smooth and flows perfectly, hard to do with this much surgery. I also like the LeSalle grill that you used.
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36 ford sedan, cut up a vantastic kit, 38 pickup
espo replied to damodelguy az's topic in Under Glass
Beautiful looking body work on both builds. I like the colors on the sedan. The Tail Light stands seem a little long. I would suggest thinking about a light black wash on the Grill of both just to add a little depth to their appearance. -
Great looking color combination on the body. The interior matches the exterior well also. I like the updated drive train idea.
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Impossible to find fault with anything you have done here. Really well done!
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thanks, Sam, first time for purple....
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Moebius work truck
samdiego replied to samdiego's topic in On the Workbench: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Thanks, guys! The ladder is some scrap balsa from a ship model, toothpicks and some photoetch for the hinges and spreader bracket that I still need to add to the side that's showing in the pics. I've also figured out that removing the mounting flanges and putting the windshield in from the outside is way easier than following the instructions. I'll also be putting that front bumper back on for the third time. -
Finest-flake silver metallic paint??
my80malibu replied to Ace-Garageguy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Bill I would Consider Scale Finishes. Jameston, has all the Colors Imaginable in a fine grain pigment, very easy to use, and available for Airbrushing. If you want to step over to the wild side. You could consider using Wicked Colors, or Mission paints. They are Acrylic based paints. The Mission paints are especially good at Coverage without washing out ,or Hiding details. -
Poppy red - https://www.sw-rodandrestocustomcolor.com/colors/PCCL32 Hugger Orange - https://www.sw-rodandrestocustomcolor.com/colors/PCCL50 I painted a K&K Charger Tamiya red based on what I saw in the pictures - it never looked right... Then I learned the K&K cars are poppy red.
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Very well done.
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Something to consider if you're over say over 6 ft. tall. My last two every day drivers have been four doors. They have both been Chargers, and they aren't exactly small. Being over 6 ft. means I sit further back than some do. What happens is the B pillar is even with my shoulder and it is actually harder to get in and out than in a two door car. My wife is 5ft 10in. she also has this issue but at a lesser degree. I guess getting older is a factor making this far more noticeable now than in years past. Some thing I have noticed, and this is one of those mind set things, most people of younger generations are not as put off by multidoor vehicles as most of us of a curtain age. This has to do with being raised during a time when a two door hardtop or convertible was considered the most desirable car to own. Four doors and even Wagons were considered little more than taxis of the time. This may just be my personal hang up, but I think others may agree. The main thing today is we are forced to buy what ever the manufactures think we want, and it is up to us the consumer to determine which box full of doors we want to spend a ransom to buy.
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Fresh sweet corn and tomatoes for the first time this year. Tasty!
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For comments
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Odd they didn't release it in the US for July. Looks like a neat kit.
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Finest-flake silver metallic paint??
Ace-Garageguy replied to Ace-Garageguy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Thanks again to everyone who's responded. Many of the recommended silvers are colors I've never used, so you all have saved me considerable time and money by giving me some specifics. -
Sometimes, in many kits, the directions are wrong. Off to a great start. The only two things I don’t like about this kit, is the way the hood fits near the grill, and that the windshield could fit better. Over all, it’s one of my favorite cars, and kits, of all time. I’ve built over a dozen, and plan on a “do over” of the Platt car, that I did years ago. I will definitely be following this build.
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I didn't think something looked right about it, now that you say it, that makes sense..
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Galion 12 1/2 Ton Hydraulic Rough Terrain Crane
DrKerry replied to redneckrigger's topic in On the Workbench: Big Rigs
Just WOW!!! Like the work you do RNR!!! Question on the tubing, are you making the rectangular tubing or can a person buy it that size? If so, where do you get it? I want to do a wheel/axle lift on the back of a wrecker and need to find some larger rectangular tube.. -
Finest-flake silver metallic paint??
Dave G. replied to Ace-Garageguy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Model Master Aluminum Plate Matalizer . Has to be sealed with their Matalizer seal coat though or other clear. Similar choice to Snakes but it's a buffing metalizer, just don't buff it buff the clear.. It goes down silky smooth, the only trick is swirl your airbrush ( I airbrush it) to keep the metallic suspended.
