Getting into it, questions. (long read)

[om617]

If i want cheap stuff i use Ebay. Select known brands,then "price-shipping-low first" and tons of stuff often have free shipping,also to the US.

[ZTony8]

Since you're into the tuner type of cars go for Tamiya,Aoshima,and Hasegawa kits.Not only are they the subject you like they're easier to assemble than an AMT, Revell,or Monogram kit.Ninety percent of the work in the foreign kits is the painting of them.

[Jantrix]

Owen, as for paint. A lot of us are using Duplicolor and Plasticote automobile paints available in most decently stocked auto parts stores. A much better selection of colors, that go on well. It's a lacquer so primer completely with a like-brand primer. Clear will be necessary, and I would use a like-brand on that as well.

The cans are fairly large and you can easily get a few models out of them. Here's my usual suspects for paint.

Edited July 22, 2014 by Jantrix

[Tom Geiger]

Owen, as for paint. A lot of us are using Duplicolor and Plasticote automobile paints available in most decently stocked auto parts stores.

Agreed! Owen, going the auto paint route opens up a whole world of colors. I use Duplicolor primers exclusively on my models. They dry very flat to the body and don't obscure detail. They are essential if using auto paint, since they seal in and protect the surface of your model. Straight auto paint without primer will react with the plastic and ruin your model. Most of us learned that one the hard way!

Also going this way, you can look up paint codes for recent cars, and may be able to match them exactly. And you can hold off on using your compressor, these spray cans work very well on models, and produce very nice finishes. Most colors you will need to clear coat for the shiny finish.

If you don't have a local hobby shop but have a Michaels or Hobby Lobby nearby, you can get a lot of supplies and models there. Each of these stores issues a weekly coupon for 40% off a single non-sale item, so you can save some money as well. Michaels sells a glue called Zap-A-Gap that I use for most of my work. It's a CA glue, but much thicker than the basic kind (which runs like water!) so you can get a little on a toothpick to apply. It's not in their model section, rather in their craft glue aisle.

[Tom Geiger]

Sandpaper! I don't believe this has been addressed. You can buy sandpaper, at Walmart or Home Depot. I like the 3M brand, the cheaper stuff is poorly done.

I cut mine up into little 1" x 1" squares on a cutting board. In this cabinet I have grits all the way up to 600. I hardly ever use the 80 or 120 grit, the 220 and 320 I use for rough putty work.

The Japanese kits you may be building will require less clean up than most older US kits.

[Harry P.]

Sorry for uncertainty. I meant I can't buy from off here or international. I might be able to sway their opinions but for now I'm stuck to U.S. Sorry for the confusion, didn't mean to start a passive aggressive flame war.

Don't worry, there's no problem. Maybe you can work something out with your parents. The internet really is the best (and easiest) way for you to find just about anything you need.

[fumi]

If you must buy within the US, I have been using Model Empire (http://modelempireusa.com) for quite a long time and their price on import kits seems to be reasonable.

You can also find good deals on Star Models. I think Steve deals in used kits so sometimes the kits are opened with parts cut out, you might want to ask him about the kit's condition beforehand. http://resinrealm.net/Star/STARModels.html

As for paint, if you are just starting out you should probably stick with hobby paint for now. I prefer acrylic because they are easier to clean up.

Edited July 22, 2014 by fumi

[johnbuzzed]

You're 14 and have built just two "glue bombs"? Do yourself a favor- get your basic Revell or Monogram kit and paint at Wal Mart, even if the paint is not to your liking. You might be able to get other supplies, such as an x-acto type knife, glues and sanding sticks there, too- or maybe at an Ace hardware store, if there's one nearby. Then, take those basic building needs and build a box-stock model, following the instructions and taking your time. Use what tools you get or already have correctly, clean your brushes well after you paint and take your time with the rattle can. Do your best to build a non glue-bomb. We can and will answer any questions that you have along the way.

Get a couple of easy, basic kits under your belt first. Keep it simple-don't look to add aftermarket parts right away. There are plenty of adult modelers with a lot of experience who have problems with that stuff, trying to compensate for poor basic building skills. Starting out with the more exotic, imported kits and parts might not be the best thing to do- they ain't cheap and things can be a bit particular. Plus, ordering on-line creates shipping and handling fees, which can add up.

And while you might not have a great selection of hobby shops, etc, near your home, nor a lot of $$$, there are ways to get places and get some $$$. Chores and yardwork might lead to an allowance. Save every bit of spare pocket change that you can. Sometimes it doesn't hurt to just ask your parents "Please"? It didn't always work for me, but there were times when it did.

[10thumbs]

Edit, scratch out Spot Model, they're British. I'm American, I'd rather order from American companies.

Just a tip from my side, this site is international. I have no problem buying in Britain. Germany, or France either. Buy where you choose, but let your horizon shine, and not be dimmed by whatever criteria you think rules. Paying attention though, to where things are made can be a plus point, for many of us.

Michael

[1930fordpickup]

I agree with getting a cheap kit and going from there. It does not have to be the kit you want to practice with. You are just learning to do the basics anyway.

[Danny Lectro]

Hi, Owen. Welcome aboard!

Your first post mentioned Hobbylinc as a possible source of materials. Assuming you are referring to Hobbylinc.com, based in Georgia? I have ordered from them a few times, and I have had good experiences with them. Their prices are pretty good, but a couple of times I found better prices for some supplies on Amazon. So far, I haven't found anyplace with better prices on kits from the American companies, other than getting something from the very limited selection at Michael's with a 50%-off coupon. Be aware they do take a long time to ship, up to 5 days from when you place your order. Also be aware that some items are actually listed twice on the site, with two different prices. If you find something you like while browsing, be sure to do a search for it in the search box to make sure you picked the one with the better price.

I hope this helps.

[jbwelda]

be careful of that duplicolor etc automotive paints particularly on Japanese plastic. in my experience it tends to really mess up the plastic if it is put on too heavy. it will wrinkle and etch into the plastic itself, making the body (etc) into instant junk. I personally would advise buying Tamiya spray cans, but they are expensive for not much paint, however their paint and nozzles make up for the expense. but if you are having to be on a budget and get the auto spray paint, just be careful to put on very light coats at first until you see what happens to the plastic. I ruined many bodies discovering this and the problem is these companies seem to change formulations often and I could not get consistent results over a period of time. no one else has ever mentioned this so maybe its just me (the inconsistency I mean, not the phasing of the plastic, that has been widely reported).

jb

[moparfarmer]

I know the Duplicolor is not a hot lacquer as it was years ago..Like William said,,spray light coats and not thick..I use Plasticote or Duplicolor primers exclusely..Light coats then sand then paint..Tamiya is very thin and expensive with small cans..You can but the automotive stuff with a bigger can for about $8.00 per..The primers I get are sandable primer...I like the Plasticoat because the grey is lighter than the other If Plasticote make sure the number on the back of the can is T with three numbers or you will be getting a very soft primer...Good luck "kid"....

[High octane]

Owen, if there's a model car swap meet in your area you can find some cheap kits there as well as glue-bombs.

[Agent G]

Have mom go to a Sally's Beauty Supply and purchase several nail sanding boards. They come in all grits from super coarse to extra fine. While there have her get a few foam sanding blocks as well. Very useful in bodywork. Look at some of the tools as well. Tweezers are a must, several different types of tweezers will be beneficial.

By not concentrating on just hobby paint you have a larger field to choose from. You will still want a few bottles of paint for those detail jobs.

Michaels and Hobby Lobby are fine for brushes right now. Home Depot Lowes and the like are good sources for laquer thinner and enamel thinners.

There's a Hobby Town USA in Carson City and a Hobby Lobby in Reno. I know that your age is a challenge and that's a bit of a drive, I've worked in Carson City before, but if your parents see you are interested and responsible enough then a family road trip could be the thing.

G

[Modelbuilder Mark]

How do you know that?

I think it was assumed from the original post, section 3 "people won't even let minors mow their lawn". I just figured he was talking about himself as well.

[Owie]

Thank you guys for all the help and advice. I can see now that paint will be my biggest challenge. I'm still not completely sure on a kit, as some have said the Tamiya models are easier than the American models like Revelle and Monogram. I'll pick up sand paper, tweezers, and other little tools like that. I'll head up to reno and carson for some stuff, and seeing as we're going to be in Boise next week, I'll hit the Hobby Town USA. It's cool to see a community like this on the internet, and I'm excited to wade into deeper waters of hobbying. I've done Rc cars, slot cars, planes, boats, and some other stuff, but as far as artistry and time goes, this seems to be the hardest. And since some of you seem to have been involved in the Northern Nevada hobby scene, do any of you know Stan Lattin? First Place Race Raceway and/or the lexan body painting business? And I'll practice with some hobby paint on some old toys laying around. I found some metallicy graphite color I like and am going to practice with the airbrush and paint thinning stuff. But it's already pretty watery. Thanks again, and I hope to be working on something soon?

[Owie]

Thank you guys for all the help and advice. I can see now that paint will be my biggest challenge. I'm still not completely sure on a kit, as some have said the Tamiya models are easier than the American models like Revelle and Monogram. I'll pick up sand paper, tweezers, and other little tools like that. I'll head up to reno and carson for some stuff, and seeing as we're going to be in Boise next week, I'll hit the Hobby Town USA. It's cool to see a community like this on the internet, and I'm excited to wade into deeper waters of hobbying. I've done Rc cars, slot cars, planes, boats, and some other stuff, but as far as artistry and time goes, this seems to be the hardest. And since some of you seem to have been involved in the Northern Nevada hobby scene, do any of you know Stan Lattin? First Place Race Raceway and/or the lexan body painting business? And I'll practice with some hobby paint on some old toys laying around. I found some metallicy graphite color I like and am going to practice with the airbrush and paint thinning stuff. But it's already pretty watery. Thanks again, and I hope to be working on something soon!

Edited July 23, 2014 by Owie

[Owie]

Sorry, another double post, this mobile site is kinda akward and is ticking me off.

[DynoMight]

Thank you guys for all the help and advice. I can see now that paint will be my biggest challenge. I'm still not completely sure on a kit, as some have said the Tamiya models are easier than the American models like Revelle and Monogram. I'll pick up sand paper, tweezers, and other little tools like that. I'll head up to reno and carson for some stuff, and seeing as we're going to be in Boise next week, I'll hit the Hobby Town USA. It's cool to see a community like this on the internet, and I'm excited to wade into deeper waters of hobbying. I've done Rc cars, slot cars, planes, boats, and some other stuff, but as far as artistry and time goes, this seems to be the hardest. And since some of you seem to have been involved in the Northern Nevada hobby scene, do any of you know Stan Lattin? First Place Race Raceway and/or the lexan body painting business? And I'll practice with some hobby paint on some old toys laying around. I found some metallicy graphite color I like and am going to practice with the airbrush and paint thinning stuff. But it's already pretty watery. Thanks again, and I hope to be working on something soon!

Owen I would really suggest getting a cheap Revell kit. It will show you all the things you will need to do on a box-stock build, and although the Japanese have better body and interior detail, the Revells have full detail, as far as engine and complete chassis. Plus it is relatively cheap, at least cheaper than Tamiya kits; so if you do happen to mess something up, it's only a $15 kit and not a $40 kit.. Just my opinion.

[jbwelda]

its hard to really and truly mess up a model. you can always dip it in the Castrol Super Clean (make a note Owen) for a couple days and start over. its when you start cutting that the potential for messed up becomes more of a reality.

also Owen, but some Future floor wax (now called pledge with future shine or something similar). it will be indespensible in the coming future for you. glue in windows, clear parts, coat decals before or after applying, hold photo etch in place, use as a clear coat, its a modelers miracle. remove it and clean brushes you've used with it with plain ammonia.

jb