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Stingaree,,, could use some help


Psychographic

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As life gets in the way for a lot of us, so did it for me in the spring of this year. I just plain lost the drive to build anything and started concentrating on some painting. I got an email inviting me to a smaller sites 2nd annual contest. I thought maybe if I threw my hat in the ring it would inspire me to build something. I wanted to build a bit out of my comfort zones. As I usually build customs, I thought I would do a drag car I had in mind for about a year. I wanted to take a showrod and try to make it into a somewhat realistic racecar. The kit in mind is the Stingaree, if you're not familiar with it, a good example of a stock build is about half way down the page on this link.

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=33007&sid=9244eb0ff87a67e95f977bd67490b751

My plan was to scrap everything but the body and make a streamliner style front engine dragster out of it.

The first design on a frame.

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The stock kit frame in the back, the new one in the front.

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Scratchbuilt front wheels

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Parts box rear wheels and the back halves of the kit wheels.

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Scratchbuilt seat

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Rear cast from a Swamp Rat 30 kit.

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I need to cut the seat down.

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The frame just about ready for paint. The front axle assembly is also from the SW30 kit.

P8130039_zps82cd470d.jpg

P8130040_zps3fd74313.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
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It goes through the seat! OK ya got me on this one. I used busted up Swamp Rat 30 as a reference for my frame. As that car is rear engine I had to get creative on the rear. Remember now, I did say somewhat realistic. After thinking about how to solve this, I thought of the gears in a quick change. if that design can hold up to a 410 sprintcar, why couldn't a similar piece be machined to drop the driveshaft lower.

P8280094_zpsd895713e.jpg

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Fitting the engine. After a few tries on making four matching pipes for one of the zoomies I decided to make one, then mold and cast it to get eight that match.

P8150044_zps6e47fdcf.jpg

Now for some bodywork. The back was entirely too wide, wider than a stock Corvette, I removed a wedge out of the center of the body which narrowed it up 3/4 of an inch. After laying out the cut I cut the roof right behind the windshield so the stock one would fit, then I made the wedge cut and cemented it back together.

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After that was dry, I made a series of vertical cuts along the bottom of the body, pushed it flat and taped it down to the bench. Then I filled in the cuts, let it dry. The bottom halves of the body needed a little massaging to fit, then I added the rockers to it.

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The last body mods included filling the engine compartment with a L-88 hood scoop, extending the rockers a bit, reshaping the exhaust cutouts, and making the splitter for the front.

P8190048_zps6810a0f2.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
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What's your question about SR 30? One possible drive shaft cure would be to offset the engine and run the drive shaft parallel to the engine compartment. You'd need to unwiden the rear tires and modify the rear axles to move the third member to one side.

Of course you could really push this and get a jet motor and run it to the side also. Sort like this:

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/nbphotoflash/tags/rogergustin/

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What's your question about SR 30? One possible drive shaft cure would be to offset the engine and run the drive shaft parallel to the engine compartment. You'd need to unwiden the rear tires and modify the rear axles to move the third member to one side.

Of course you could really push this and get a jet motor and run it to the side also. Sort like this:

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/nbphotoflash/tags/rogergustin/

I'm using the transmission from SW 30 and would like to know how the linkage works.

As for offsetting the engine, the body is just too narrow.

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