Jantrix Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 (edited) I'm building this for a theme contest later in the year and I'm concerned about realism. I'm afraid my rusting work looks more like mud and I need to go back to the drawing board. I'm not happy with this outcome. To me this doesn't look realistic. This is all acrylic craft paints and primer so square one is about three hours in the the dip away. I want real opinions and critique folks, do not be afraid of hurting my feelings I started with red oxide primer. Then rust colors (several) applied randomly over the body with a sponge brush. Then green applied over all and the blue over that applied with the sponge brush. Then I gently scrubbed with a toothbrush using 70% alcohol. The areas where it went clear down to the primer I intended to add corn starch and rust washes to simulate rust, but I'm concerned that it just looks like mud now. I used the corn starch method on my junkman's trailer in a few spots and it came out great. But this is so much more area. I think I need to redo this and make sure I don't get down to primer and I won't have to use so much corn starch. First pic is before I started the rusting process. Next two is when I'm done. All input is heartily appreciated. Edited August 26, 2012 by Jantrix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluhead Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 It does look a bit on the thick side, Rob. I was toying around with rusting again a bit ago, and trying to improvise because my 15 year old rustall (lol) wasn't getting it done. On this, the front clip actually started out off-white, sprayed over salted gray primer. I threw some steel wool in a container and let it sit for, I don't know, about 5 days. Long enough to get some rust flakes and the water to evaporate. I mixed that in with what was left of my rustall, which was mostly the clear carrier, but it was still really fine in texture. So I screwed around with a few things around the house...and ended up using ground cinnamon. The color is just right. The texture was on the coarse side but by blowing it into the wet rust coat I was able to get a lot of the fine stuff...and then rub the coarse stuff off as it dried up a bit. Several coats of blackwash and it wasn't quite dark enough for my liking, so I ran a pencil lead over sandpaper and rubbed some in. Gotta be careful with this as a little goes a LONG way. I doubt it shows in the pic, but it also gave it a touch of that metallic-ish sheen. Hope this helps. Dr. Cranky and Chuck Most seem to be a couple who are light years ahead of me on this, so hopefully they'll spot it and give you real advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 You know I'm not a rust person, Rob, but to my eye the blue/green was put on too thick. Can't wait to see it at the MAGS show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 (edited) That's what I'm building it for Jim, but I pretty sure it won't look like this. And please, if you are reading this thread, you gotta have an opinion. Please take 30 seconds to let me know your thoughts. Edited August 26, 2012 by Jantrix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 (edited) Your rust color looks good . lots of variation in color which is the tough part. The blue paint seems too thick to me. I'm wonder if some polishing of the blue to even it out a bit would help. Not to a shiny finish, of course, but to scale it down to more of a 1/25th roughness. Using gloss, semi-gloss and dull coat selectively afterward should make the paint look right. The sanding will enhance, rather than ruin, any rusted areas you might encroach on next to the blue. You really do have the base down well. I do rusting in many layers, just like nature, until it looks right. Sometimes things I'm done get covered or even removed in the process. I'd never start this over, in any case. It will all enhance the final look! Edited August 23, 2013 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 All the paint was added with a sponge brush, specifically for the texture, but I'll admit it don't look right. It looks like the rust is above the paint. I think it's time for a re-do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Opinions wanted, I'll say what I think: It looks good. Rust color is great, and you have rust in right places! I really like it. I'm not sure if this because of the pictures, but the body looks way too thick to me. Especially from the rust holes, body should be a lot thinner, as it is in real life. Otherwise I think it looks great, and better than my first try at rusting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 Thanks guys. She's in the dip. I'll give it another try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Ron, Before I can offer any advice , I need to know whether or not you're using an airbrush on this .Sorry , stupid spell check ! Rob ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Don't go for texture in this scale and on the body. Your rust colors are good and realistic so try the hair spray method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 Donn, I'm not yet airbrushing. Soon though. When we move, the new work center will have a booth and air brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Donn, I'm not yet airbrushing. Soon though. When we move, the new work center will have a booth and air brush. Ok ! Just needed to know. I've combined some of my technique with Virgil's . Difference being , I use flat enamels , if you can imagine that ! Lol ! The airbrush allows you to apply such a subtle touch when it comes to weathering , thus the reason for my initial question . Add earth toned pastel chalks to the mix and you've got it whipped ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Thanks Donn. She's in the dip right now and I'm going to start fresh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outlaw035 Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 rob...instead of using the sponge brush to get the texture tray rust-oleum textured paint for plastic...think i got it at home dep...hope u can see it in this pix.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 I have decided to go ahead and break out my airbrush for this one. I'm still gonna try the acrylic craft paints because I like the colors. Gonna put texture only where I want the rust coming through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Rob l thought it looked pretty good and you should have knocked the rust down a little. Most rust on all builds looks high. l have yet to try weathering yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoparWoman Jamie Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 (edited) If you want the weather effect to stay without coming off, then you will need a pastel sealer from the art dept of a arts and craft store. Plus afew paint brushes and some flat clear coat as well, sand the pastel off onto a tray, spray the clear coat onto a piece of paper, and some dull coat as well. Use the brush and dip it in the clear then to the pastel and then the brush onto the model car. Once you get the weathering to what you like, seal the pastel off with the pastel sealer and then give it a paint wash of a rust color. The pastel sealer will seal the pastel from the wash. When I say pastel sealer I mean just that, clear coat will desolve the pastel very fast only pastel sealer will protect the pastel and not desovle it at all. Juyst spray it on in mist coats and quite afew coats might be needed before anything else like in washes. You can always go back with the body color and cover some of the pastel up before doing a wash though. then after everything is done, if the body to shiny for your liking just hit it with the dull coat with afew light mists. Edited August 27, 2012 by zerodude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Good info Jim, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW Dave Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 (edited) Like others have said, the colors look good but the texture is a bit heavy. The rust holes down low look good, but they are a little large overall; I'm a big fan of making lots of small holes first, then opening a few up into larger ones. My secret is to thin the panel from behind with a Dremel cutoff disc, then I slowly run over the area with a ball-shaped milling bit with a light behind it until the material just starts to blister and break through. A small dental-style pick tool works great for popping those body 'blisters' and modding them into bigger holes. Here's my in-progress '55 Chevy stakebed truck with the small holes coming through: Edited August 28, 2012 by VW Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 Yeah I was a bit heavy handed with the dremel milling bit and it punched through in a larger opening than I wanted. I will be addressing those holes again tonight. I'll thin the plastic out some more and add a little more rot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carchub Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Like others have said, the colors look good but the texture is a bit heavy. The rust holes down low look good, but they are a little large overall; I'm a big fan of making lots of small holes first, then opening a few up into larger ones. My secret is to thin the panel from behind with a Dremel cutoff disc, then I slowly run over the area with a ball-shaped milling bit with a light behind it until the material just starts to blister and break through. A small dental-style pick tool works great for popping those body 'blisters' and modding them into bigger holes. Here's my in-progress '55 Chevy stakebed truck with the small holes coming through: I really like this, how did you accomplish the larger dent in the door though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 I really like this, how did you accomplish the larger dent in the door though? Dents- Here's a hood dent I recently did. I use a small birthday type candle in a stand, heat up the body area from behind. Once you think it's hot (it shouldn't sag or catch fire!) stick something metal into the area from the front. I use an old Matchbox car. And practice quite a bit on junk bodies before attempting this on a good model! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenrat Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Given the thickness of most model bodies shallow dents can be made without heat by carefull gouging with a knife followed by sanding to smooth everything out. It's easy to go over the top when using heat and for every big dent like the one Tom has made above (which looks good - the secret is in what you use to push the dent in) there will probably be a plethora of smaller ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 The older rust gets, the darker brown it becomes, from my experience. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 It's easy to go over the top when using heat and for every big dent like the one Tom has made above (which looks good - the secret is in what you use to push the dent in) there will probably be a plethora of smaller ones. Thanks Fred, Ironically I'm thinking of this Chevy as an Aussie outback vehicle and the dent may just represent a roo deflected! Part of heating up a body is making sure that you have a very narrow flame (that's why I use a small birthday candle) because it's too easy to heat up a large area and the edges you aren't watching are shriveling up. I've had that happen. That's when you wind up with body damage that's way too intense. Also once I have made my dent, I may put putty in it and carve it out. Melted plastic tends to have soft edges where actual dents have creases and rough edges, so I may create those with putty. And the sermon... know the materials of the actual car you are modeling! Fiberglass parts and plastic grills don't dent, they shatter! Can't tell you how many times I've seen rusty fiberglass fenders (like a Chevy Cameo pickup bed sides). That's why I did the rusty Corvette model as a spoof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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