1958 Chevy Impala Sport Coupe

[cchapman195]

I have decided to use my next build as a learning experiment. As I build this I will be posting pic's with an explanation of how I do the procedures in the process. My hopes is to help others new and old to the hobby learn something they did not already know. All of the techniques here I have learned from a lot of the builders here on this forum and YouTube. My main goal is to learn myself as well. I hope to show how I do something and hope that if any of you following this build know or have a different way with an easier or better outcome then please share. Good or bad criticism is always welcome. The only way for me or others is to be told how to do something better. So with that said. We will start off with the kit.

AMT '58 Chevrolet Impala Sport Coupe 1/25th scale.

I will be using acrylic paints for the entire build.

Body will be Patina Bronze.

Interior will be tan, raw and burnt sienna.

Chassis will be black and gray.

All washed and aftermarket parts are ready.

Photo etch, wired distributor and custom hubcaps from another kit.

I begin with the body.

I use a black sharpie to mark everything to be cleaned and removed.

I will be removing all emblems,

Mold lines,

and sand all parts with 400-1500 grit sand paper until all are smooth and black sharpie no longer shows.

I also remove door locks as well as they will be replaced with locks from the PE set.

Time for me to get to work. I will post more as I get work done. Thanks for tuning in.

[James2]

I have an older AMT coupe to do, I'll be following your closely!

Edited December 10, 2013 by James2

[PappyD340]

Got my trusty bowl of popcorn and I'm settling down to watch this build!! Nice start so far!!

[cobraman]

I will be watching. I love the 58's even more than the 57's. I thought the one on American Graffiti was pretty cool.

[cchapman195]

I would like to welcome and thank those of you that are following. I have made some progress, so lets get started.

First I drilled little holes where the door and truck key locks go. This is so I know where to place the PE door locks and have a place for the glue to adhere to clean styrene. I then sanded the entire body with 400 grit sand paper. The blue dots indicate the low spots. These need to be filled in to have a nice, clean and smooth surface.

The trunk lid is the worst. All them dots will get filled in.

This body is surprisingly clean. The blue mark on the bottom left is the worst. It will be tricky to fix as there are lines running across the body trim.

Next I will scribe the trunks panel lines. These are the tools I use for this.

First I use the back of a number eleven x-acto blade to run around the lines lightly. This will deepen the lines.

I then use my scribe to widen the lines and make them more noricable.

Here you can see the difference made by doing this. I do this on all doors, trunks , some window trim lines.

Now I use a fine jeweler's file to clean up the edges on the panel lines.

This is how it looks after it is all cleaned up. I have re cleaned with soap and water to get rid of any dust and oils from my fingers. This is all I have got for this segment but I will be filling and sanding and should have an update soon. Again, Thanks for tagging along.

Edited December 14, 2013 by cchapman195

[slusher]

Very nice pictures and explanation. Very solid start. I will enjoy watching your work...

[crazyrichard]

whow , very nice build thread !! ,

[Bobdude]

Thank you for taking the time to take pics and posting your progress.What you are doing applies to any body you want to prep for paint.

[James2]

Pretty good!

In the bucket picture, where did you find the small parts keeper?

[cchapman195]

Thanks everyone again for the kind comments. James, I got them at Walmart. They are around two dollars each and they are tea strainers. Great for putting small parts in and soaking washing and drying.

[FordRodnKustom]

Good technique and solid prep work. Thanks for posting educational "in progress".

[cchapman195]

Okay, for this update we will tackle body work. I personally like to use extra thick CA glue and baking powder. With this process I can fill in low spots,sand and wash all in a matter of minutes. A little extra info: I put on the baking powder and let sit a few minutes, brush off and sand within five minutes. As the CA glue sits it will set up hard. The longer it sits the harder it will be to sand. That said, let's get started.

I like to put aluminum foil into a little cup like object and put a few drops of glue into it. This way when I am done I can just roll it up and throw away. Bottle caps work great as well.

Here I put the extra thick ca glue across the low spots.

I then sprinkle baking powder over the glue.

This causes the glue to dry instantly.

I give it two minutes or so then use 400 grit sandpaper

Here you can see the right half finished.

If you wait to long more then five minutes the glue gets hard and will require files to sand it. Here all parts are done and sanded smooth. I can now finish sanding with 600-12000 grit paper. These are the files I used to remake the lines along the trim where I had to fill it up.

I will be back with more soon. Again thanks for following.

[cchapman195]

Okay, I am back with some more work completed.

All low spots filled and sanded 400-12000 grits. Ready for paint.

Time to work on sub assemblies.

I use Tamiya extra thin to tac down parts. O then come and fill in any gaps again with the Baking Powder and extra thick CA glue.

I start with the seat. Here after I cleaned up any flash you can see there is quite a gap.

I spread the extra thick glue into the gap.

I then sprinkle Baking Powder onto the glue spots.

I brush off powder and sand with 100-320 sanding sticks until smooth.

I also do it on the sides as the doors will open.

I also plan to use BMF on the seat suports. So it needs to be as smooth and flush as possible to not leave seam lines in the foil.

Time to fill in the gaps after putting the two engine halves together. Again, the CA and Baking powder method is used.

All gaps and seems are filled in.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1738_zps7560c676.jpg

All smooth.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q604/cchapman195/1958%20Chevy%20Impala%20MCM%20build/IMG_1739_zpsa7585045.jpg

Now it is time to start putting the motor together. I will be back with updates as soon as I get some work done.

[ChrisBcritter]

Just to clarify: Are you using baking powder or baking soda? I've heard of baking soda being used as filler but not baking powder.

One smaller thing: The vertical lines on the left side below the trunk lid are for the fuel filler lid; the two on the right are just indentations in the panel to balance out the lid and shouldn't be deepened:

(ignore the continental kit, it was the best closeup I could find)

[cchapman195]

Thanks for looking Chris. I am using baking powder. I have been using this for a couple years with great results.I have never used baking soda or herd of using that. Something I need to try. As for the lines below the trunk line I was not aware that was the purpose of the lines. Looking at many pics on Google Image it just showed there were lines but not a fuel filler lid. This is very good info. I assumed the fuel filler was behind the licence plate. I do appreciate your feed back and will have to get me some baking soda.

[slusher]

Very good tip I have to try this.....Thanks great build thread...

[om617]

Great idea on the powder. I have this kit as well,needs a great deal of prep work before any paint can be done.

[Jantrix]

I can tell you from experience that baking soda will leach out over time. If baking powder doesn't do that, that's very cool. I've heard talcum can be used also. Great work so far.

[cchapman195]

Thanks everybody for the comments. Rob Mathis (Jantrix), I did some research on the baking soda and people I have talked to also said the same thing, it leaches out over time. I have never had any problem with baking powder drying the glue as it is instant and can be sanded within two minutes of application. It does not shrink either. I also learned that a lot of builders adds baking powder to pledge floor polish with future as a filler putty with great results. It does take time to dry but works great. I believe I will try that sometime on this build if the need presents itself.

[FraGNet0]

Even if dr cranky doesn't aprove it.

It is a very nice build.

Thank you for the bakingpowder trick.

I already knew you could use it for weathering but this is a new one to me.

Really nice car....keep building, have fun.

[cchapman195]

Thanks Richard. I hope when it is done the good Doc himself will approve lol.

[FullTimeHobbiest]

Good work! I will be following this build closesly!

[Skip]

Interesting that you are using Baking Powder Vs. Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) they both share the same ingredient in common, Sodium Bicarbonate. The baking powder has other ingredients like Corn Starch plus a list of others. It would seem that the sodium bicarbonate is probably the catylist that fires off the superglue.

I've been using the baking soda method for well over 20 years and have never noticed any leaching in the areas filled. The application method is exactly the same as you are using. Its been used under acrylics, enamels, lacquers, spray bomb, airbrushed paints, never anything leaching out from under the paint. Normally there is a skim coat of straight superglue over it which may or may not be kicked off with Zap-A-Gap Kicker quick i sand smooth then prime with an automotive primer. I tint the baking soda with a drop or two of food coloring to highlight the filler, so if there were any leaching it would be even more noticeable.

I remember building that '58 as a young teen, it had most if not all of those same issues then, requiring a good deal of filler to make a decent model. Like what you are doing with this one, keep it going!

[GerN]

I like Bondo Professional Glazing and Body Putty (two part catalyzing) for this kind of filling and larger areas as well. It sets up in five minutes or so and is softer than styrene so is easy to sand without removing plastic. I do use CA and baking soda for strong bonds if a gap needs filling (pretty common with my hacked-up radical customs). For very small flaws, Bondo Glazing and Body Putty (one part red, like thick paint) works well and is very easy. Both Bondo products come in conveniently small tubes. Just trying to help.

Edited December 22, 2013 by GerN

[cchapman195]

Thanks Skip. I am going to get some baking soda and give it a try and see how and what if any the differences are. Gerald (GerN) I have hears a lot of good things about the bondo two part body putty. I thank you for the help and suggestions as this is why I started this post. In my first comments at the beginning of this I said this was for me to hear and learn from other peoples choices. You all have been great and given me option to look at. Thanks again to everyone following along. More to come soon.