Harry P. Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 All the superdetailing info is available on John Haddock's website for free. Here is a link to the engine detailing manual... http://jrhscalecars.com/Super%20Detail%20Notes-Vol1-Engine.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 This one, while out of my scale parameters, is getting to be quite interesting indeed! Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzTom Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 That looks awesome! I have been using the digital camera as a great tool for about ten years now. I was doing a WIP and after a lot of putty and sanding I took a photo of what I thought was the end of that step. When I saw the photos on the computer I couldn't believe how far I was from it being finished. I'm starting to miss this kit, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 I'm starting to miss this kit, Sorry, you can't have it back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzTom Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 I think you will do better than I would have anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nacho Z Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Outstanding attention to detail, Harry! Fantastic work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Outstanding attention to detail, Harry! Fantastic work. I think I've fallen into the "Cato Zone"... Once you start adding all the various missing linkages, levers, valves, oil lines, etc... it's hard to stop. It's addictive! You add one linkage, so then you have to add the thing that linkage is linked to... and the thing that thing is linked to, etc. And since everything on this engine is controlled by mechanical linkages (no hydraulics or electronics), there is a rat's nest of levers, rods, and brackets all over the engine. I spent the day today adding various linkages... photos tomorrow., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 I think I've fallen into the "Cato Zone"... Not yet you haven't; there's not one drip, smear, corroded or snotty part on yours. And don't forget a head gasket. I curse John Haddock every day for showing the detail that led to our insanity... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Believe it or not, I actually thought about adding a head gasket. Then a sudden bolt of sanity hit me and I decided to forget it! BTW... as good as Haddock's superdetailing instructions are, I'm finding various mistakes–mostly dimensions that if followed cause parts to interfere with other parts. There's not much margin for error with all of those interconnected rods and levers, but some of his dimensions are definitely off. I'm working on the carb today. Whew! So many linkages and levers to add... it's crazy. Hope to have a few new photos posted by tonite... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Not yet you haven't; there's not one drip, smear, corroded or snotty part on yours. Yeah, I'm finding that building it as a "fresh from the factory" car is hard enough, let alone weathering it too! I"ll pass on the weathering... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Yeah, I'm finding that building it as a "fresh from the factory" car is hard enough, let alone weathering it too! I"ll pass on the weathering... Think of it as a recent restoration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Looking great Harry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 There are a lot of levers and rods and linkages that have to be scratchbuilt... all the stuff Pocher conveniently left out of the kit. Here is how I make scale clevises for the various control rods... I start with some square styrene rod, and using a razor saw with a thick blade, I cut a slot into the end of the square rod about 3/16" or so deep. Then I drill the holes crosswise to the slot for the "bolt" that will ultimately pass through them, then I use a sanding stick to round the ends of the clevis, then cut to length, and finally drill out the hole on the cut face to accept the brass rod. It sounds harder than it is. Making one clevis takes about 5 minutes or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Here's something you haven't seen before... the left side of the engine. Some of the details are hard to see, like the horizontal magneto control rod (seen unpainted in the previous photo), now installed. The rear end of it is attached to a bell crank that a short vertical rod and return spring are also attached to... and those attach to the magneto. The front of the rod attaches to a crosswise control rod at the front of the engine. Ultimately there will be another set of rods and linkages that connect to this front crosswise rod on the right side of the engine, that will lead to the control lever on the steering wheel hub. That's a lot of rods and levers... and that's just one of the many mechanical control linkages on this engine (no way will I be adding them all!). Also you can see the scratchbuilt vacuum pump I showed you earlier in unpainted form, now installed at the left front corner of the engine, on top of the timing case. This pump also had a guide that accepts that crosswise control rod. I paint and foil detailed the generator and magneto. The "asbestos" insulation on the down pipe of the exhaust manifold was cut from the body of a pen, then wrapped with masking tape for texture... painted a "dirty white," then I rubbed a pencil on some sandpaper to create graphite dust. I put some of the graphite on my fingers and then rubbed the "asbestos" with the graphite to emphasize the masking tape texture. The clamps are just strips of aluminum duct tape. I also added a heat shield made of styrene sheet to the back side of the exhaust manifold... this shield was actually a thin sandwich of asbestos and sheet metal, and was meant to protect the ignition wires, which run through that wiring loom directly behind the exhaust manifold. I hit the exhaust manifold with several coats of Dullcote, but it still looks too shiny. Gonna hafta fix that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Great job. Just rub some graphite or Rub n' Buff on the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 The detail looks astonishing on this and I can pretend this is 1/24 to fit my preferred scale ...just keep your fingers out of the photos, Harry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Back to the right side of the engine... the carburetor. First of all, the Pocher kit carb/air cleaner is incorrect for this particular model (1934 Phantom II). The carb in the kit actually depicts the model year 1932 and earlier version. RR went to a new carb/air cleaner design in January 1932. Pocher obviously cut corners here, using the carb from their 1932 Sedanca kit instead of tooling up a correct post-1932 version. But the visual differences are pretty minor, and only a mid-1930s RR expert (or a nut!) would ever spot the differences... so I'm going to use the carb as is, incorrect or not. As with the rest of the engine, pretty much all the linkages are AWOL in the kit. Here I've started to add some of the missing details... and I'm just getting started! There are still a lot more details yet to be added! Pocher did some weird things in their kits. As you can see, the top of the carb is actually a machined brass piece instead of molded plastic, like the rest of the assembly. Why? Who knows! There are other seemingly random parts that are machined brass instead of plastic. No reason I can think of for it. Just "because," I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 The detail looks astonishing on this and I can pretend this is 1/24 to fit my preferred scale ...just keep your fingers out of the photos, Harry. My fingers are holding the camera. Not sure what you're seeing. Have you been hitting the cooking sherry again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Boy there is a lot going on with that engine ! It is looking great ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Thanks, Ray. That's the beauty of working in large scale... you can do stuff that's almost impossible to do in 1/25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) There are a lot of levers and rods and linkages that have to be scratchbuilt... all the stuff Pocher conveniently left out of the kit. Here is how I make scale clevises for the various control rods... I start with some square styrene rod, and using a razor saw with a thick blade, I cut a slot into the end of the square rod about 3/16" or so deep. Then I drill the holes crosswise to the slot for the "bolt" that will ultimately pass through them, then I use a sanding stick to round the ends of the clevis, then cut to length, and finally drill out the hole on the cut face to accept the brass rod. It sounds harder than it is. Making one clevis takes about 5 minutes or less. I am so going to use this technique!!! Could do it in square brass stock as well. Your building motto should be "Speed and Beauty"......because you are doing both, even on a Pocher Great to see you building one off your bucket list. I looked at that engine detail link Did you get your valve sequences timed correctly??? When#1 fires at TDC, #3 exhaust and #6 inlet are open....are you freaking kidding me, THAT gets into stupid minutia Edited June 30, 2015 by Twokidsnosleep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 Still adding linkages to the engine. There are so many of them, it's insane. A few scratchbuilt of styrene... Another way to do it... aluminum tubing. I flatten the areas where the linkage will attach with needle-nose pliers, then drill the hole in the linkage, then cut it off the rest of the tubing, and file the ends round. Paint and attach. I use both ways (styrene and aluminum), depending on the specific application... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 These little tidbits and pearls of wisdom are what I love about your WIP threads, Harry All very helpful for a rookie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 I'm still building linkages! Holy krapp! There are so many mechanical linkages on this engine, it's taken me several days just to add them all. I hope to have finished engine pix up tonite or tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 My fingers are holding the camera. Not sure what you're seeing. Have you been hitting the cooking sherry again? eheh .. I just meant you can't tell the scale in a photo .. you know .. and my friend Sam Adams backs me up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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