77 replies to this topic

[gasser59]

The StraightLine Modelers group is doing a community project of gassers and I wanted to join in on this so here's my build. I picked up a cab body from a SLM member and am using the bed and some of the components from the AMT '40 Willys coupe and pickup kit. As you can see, the bed is taped together for the moment and I'm currently working on the working scratch built straight axle. This will help determine ride height. The picture shows the truck a bit too high at the moment. May need to either re-arch the front leafs or make new ones.

Thanks for following along and comments welcome.

Edited by gasser59, 14 March 2012 - 04:39 AM.

[Dr. Cranky]

You've mocked it up with the right look, I can't wait to see more.

[a/gass]

drop the rear for sure the front is close - to get the front correct the center of your engin crank (or bottom pully- harmonic balncer)cant be no higher than 24 mm (or 2 foot in real life) any higher and its a street freek or not track legal.
hope this helps you some.

[Speedster]

Good start!

[W-409]

Looking really good so far. Front axle work is incredible. Great to see '41 Willys Pickups too, and with your building talents this is going to be really great. Can't wait to see more.

[gasser59]

Thanks fells especially Michael. I lowered the engine mounts a bit and I'm right at 2mm. Progress continues...

[rustybill1960]

Great Subject!!
Like what I hear and see!
Thank You for sharing
Later
Russ

[Mooneyzs]

Brad... this is going to be a killer model my friend. I will be following this build for sure. I can't wait to see what you have in store with it.

[jeffs396]

KEWL!!!

[eviltwincustoms]

Very cool build, I have always like the Willys be it a car or truck. Definitely will be peeking in on the progress of this one!

[Jantrix]

drop the rear for sure the front is close - to get the front correct the center of your engin crank (or bottom pully- harmonic balncer)cant be no higher than 24 mm (or 2 foot in real life) any higher and its a street freek or not track legal.
hope this helps you some.

Great info! I always wondered what the difference was. Thanks very much.

The Willys looks like a great project. Looking forward to seeing more.

[Truck parts]

That is off to a great start. Looking forward to seeing it done.

[gasser59]

Been continuing working on the straight axle and its mostly done. Thought I would share with you how I do this with photos and a brief description.

Below is the rough cut of the steering knuckle cut from 3/16" square aluminum tubing as well as the axle cut from 3/32" OD round tubing with the T in place. The T has had a piece of wire insulation inserted to take up some of the slack once the metal pin is installed at the end.



This next pic shows the knuckle cleaned up, rounded off and the holes drilled out for the spindle and the pin. at this point, I've glued in the pin for the spindle tubing. I use X-Acto handles with the two cross slots in the head to hold my drill bits and drill these holes by hand.



Up next is the 1/16" aluminum tubing has been added over the metal pin for the spindle.



Next, I need to add the steering arm to the knuckle. Again, I use piano wire that has been shaved on the edge of my cut-off wheel on my Dremel Stylus. It also has a slight bend in it that faces away from the knuckle.



Here's the steering arm glued in place with the rod end in place. In this case, I used plastic ends from the parts box, I think they're from a sprint car kit. This plastic piece was drilled out for the steering arm to fit into.



Finally, here's the knuckle in place with a temporary pin holding it in place. Before attaching the knuckles, I used a polishing cloth to shine up the aluminum to resemble chrome. Final piece to make is to make the tie rod that connects the two knuckles together.



Stay tuned and thanks for following along.

[John Pol]

Wow nice job so far what do you use to glue it altogether with?

John Pol

[Jon Cole]

Such quality work is humbling. Thanks for sharing this.

[gasser59]

Thanks for the comments fellas. I use green label Zap-a-Gap exclusively on my metal to metal and metal to plastic parts.

[brett]

Excellent little tut Brad, thanks for sharing it

[gasser59]

After work, I was able to fabricate the tie rod from stainless stell tubing from RB Motion and another piece of 0.015 diameter piano wire that's bent at the ends to go into the steering arms. The hole in the steering arms were filled with another piece of wire insulation but much thinner. This should allow the wire ends to pivot without coming out.

[JB_Hobbies]

Great start! nice job on the front end too!

JB

[gasser59]

A bit more progress over the last couple of days. Front axle is done, the chassis is painted and the Cragars and some of the engine components have gotten a shot of Alclad. I changed all of the tires and am happy with these. The pie crusts were too short for the ride height. Still deciding on an injection system. May go with the Enderle as shown here but it seems a bit out of scale. Its sitting upside down for the picture.



As always, comments welcome and thanks for following along.