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Matt Bacon

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  1. Thanks, guys… the thing that really surprised me is how small and neatly styled is. I’ve not really had chance to compare one in real life, and in pictures I’ve just assumed it was as big as other US cars of the period. But I put it up against the Revell Foose 65 Impala and it’s tiny! It’s actually similar in size to the 1/25 E-Type in the cabinet… I’m sure they got bigger over the years but the 67-68 models are real petite design classics, IMHO… best, M.
  2. That looks fantastic, in a mean-looking Sci-Fi way. Beautiful detail painting on the inside and the overall finish is to die for… Brilliant photography as well. I love it. best, M.
  3. The AMT 1967 and 1968 kits combined, with @Snake45s suggested modifications. The kit is a bit dated, but the scrubs up very well with the aid of @Snake45s improvements and online reference (RK Motors have sold a LOT of 68 Camaro restorations and restomods....) best, M.
  4. I think to really be able to tell you need to put a block of black foam to fill the glasshouse, and stand well back and zoom in with the camera. As it is, the line of the nearside window is hard to see because of the “view through” of the far side. Standing further away will reduce the fish-eye distortion of the camera lens and give you something more directly comparable with the real car picture. best, M.
  5. That looks great, Rich. Beautiful finish and detailing, and that’s one of the best later ‘vette color schemes. I thought this was one of the best Revell auto kits I’ve built… best, M.
  6. Busy evening yesterday and some final touches today... Time to clean it up and then beauty shots for Under Glass tomorrow... best, M.
  7. Probably on the home stretch now... The "wood" was worth doing: I think it does add interest and a touch of pizzazz to an otherwise dark cabin. But the center console is especially hard to see! It took a bit of wiggling and a few nerve-wracking moments, but the chassis, cabin and body do all fit together! It's definitely worth following the instructions and fixing the cabin in the body before adding the chassis. The rear view mirror is an MCG etch part, made up of four pieces folded and glued together. I used the bigger Polyglas L60-15 tyres on the rear wheels for a bit more street attitude and I'm happy with the stance. It means I have another "big n small" pairing for a different muscle car as well... Just a few small details left and the decals now. best, M.
  8. Got some chrome work done: The rear window is BMF, the rest of the window trim is chrome pen. The grille is SMS Hyperchrome over Tamiya Gloss Black. Gratuitous engines, because these pictures are actually in focus. I've made a coil (which is where the loose end goes), and I need to run a lead from the starter to the battery. Since both the coil and battery live on the body rather than the chassis, I'll add the wire at this end, but final connection will have to wait until the final assembly stage. Anybody know where the coil goes on a period Camaro? Modern/restomod ignition setups seem to be fitted in the top of the firewall, more or less where the heater plenum is on this one. I'm assuming on the firewall behind the distributor, or as close as fits, but if anyone knows for sure... I've used some of the etch pieces from the Model Car Garage set I bought for the badges and scripts for the interior . Making four tiny window winders each from three pieces of increasingly small etch was a barrel of laughs, I tell you... The pedals are a big improvement on the kit efforts, big being the operative word. And as you can see, I decided on the wood trim option, just to give some added interest in the all-black interior. The dash details are quite nice (though having now gone for the wood some of the sliver trim needs revisiting). The later issue of the two kits has got gauge decals, which are very handy. The Citadel 'ardcoat gloss varnish hasn't dried in these pictures, hence the slightly milky look, but it will end up crystal clear and pull the decals down over the molded detail as it dries. best, M.
  9. Slow but steady progress... Engine's completed apart from decals. Cabin under way, in shades of black. Detail painting in the engine bay. I'm glad those extra bits were in the box! I'm sure one will fit inside the other... best, M.
  10. There this version that sits on the bench on a heavy base: https://a.co/d/1TvwCQc (Amazon.com link, shortened so it isn’t showing a preview) best, M.
  11. Me too: I made a couple of “grippers” with foam pads on T-section aluminium that fit into the PCB “jaws”… Best, M.
  12. I can believe it… but does an asymmetric fan really make that much difference to the “noise” when it’s hanging off the front of a 302ci VB with an exhaust system that is consciously not working hard to hush up the “thrumble” as you wind it up? I would have thought too that a bit of fine tuning of the shape of the fan cowl and the distance between the fan and back face of the radiator would have solved any resonance issues as quickly as chopping a couple of blades out of the fan… best, M.
  13. Triggered by building a '68 Camaro with a 302.... why is the cooling fan "3-blades-gap-2-blades-gap"? Does it do something to balance the engine? Or provide a cycle of a bit more and then a bit less cooling? The kit parts are clearly a replica of the real thing, rather than just short-shot, so I'd love to know what the engineering reason for it is... I think I've only ever seen it on this Camaro and a Corvette. Everything else I've built has had evenly-distributed blades (admittedly with anything between 4 and 12 of them...) which I assume makes for smoother operation and consistent stress/wear on the bearings... best, M.
  14. Personally, I’ve always thought there’s a lack of clarity on what constitutes a “Model building Q&A” and “Tips, Tricks and Tutorials”. Any Q that starts “How do I…?/“What’s the best way to..?” usually has an A made up of tips, tricks and tutorials… On the other hand, the How do I? questions are mixed in with “Which kit has this engine? Or “Does anybody make a kit of..?” Questions. I’d like to see a “Techniques, Tips and Tutorials”section covering everything to do with building and finishing a model, and a “Kit and Hobby Q&A” covering off everything to do with kit or part availability, hobby history, model memorabilia and all of that build-adjacent stuff… best, M.
  15. I've stripped all the heavy chrome (mostly because the bumpers have really bad mold lines OOB, so they have to be cleaned up) These have been repainted with SMS Hyperchrome over GS Ueno Black gloss, and the light lenses made with crystal clear 2-part epoxy. Proscale Le Mans Blue with their own 2K clear coat. I need to get used to it some more, but the color is accurate, and the 2K is thinner and more period-appropriate-looking than Zero Paints 2K "Diamond"finish, although it's not as easy to get a glass-smooth finish with... Distributor drilled and wired with Tamiya detailing wire... ...and after some online research into 1969 Chevrolet 302 firing sequence, the "plugs" are connected... best, M.
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