Jump to content

Vince Nemanic

Member Since 17 Dec 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 06:00 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: GSL 25th Anniversary 2015 Pics

04 May 2015 - 01:07 PM

Chris and Ace-it was a real pleasure meeting you guys, and just an amazing weekend,  You guys and everyone else there are good modelers and even better people.

For those of you out there who have not gone to GSL or any other big NNL or contest ,the models draw you there but is the PEOPLE that make he show.  Getting to know the other model builders is the real treasure, the advice and any trophies won are just gravy.

In Topic: GSL Countdown - What's in it for you?

29 April 2015 - 04:17 AM

Joe, I'll be boarding a plane in Sacramento a couple hours after you ...I hope we can meet today.  I'll be wearing a blue t-shirt with an Eagle in front, and will land about 4:15

In Topic: GSL Countdown - What's in it for you?

28 April 2015 - 05:52 PM

When MSG's custom modeling book was new, he had the book and his 40 Ford from the cover on a table as he was talking to a small group of modelers.  I congratulated him on the book and then said that many people had made VW bugs look like 40 Fords, but that he was the first to make a 40 Ford look like a VW bug.  Mark gave me a big smile and said "Nemanic, you're a pain in the a**"  I took it as a compliment, and he STILL is my friend!  What a guy!

In Topic: 1/25 AMT Piranha Super Spy Car

22 April 2015 - 07:26 AM

The above should read "sand DOWN the ENDS of the piston barrel mounts" .  I thought I caught all of the mistakes before I hit post. LOL.

In Topic: 1/25 AMT Piranha Super Spy Car

22 April 2015 - 07:21 AM

I'm starting to build this, so I thought I might address some of the questions about fit. As a disclaimer, these maybe peculiar to my kit.  I also dechromed a number of parts such as the front suspension and shocks.


Of course, there are mold lines and ejector pin marks to deal with.  I found that is VERY important to remove these and to test fit a LOT. some of the ejector pins are raised from the surface of a part and cause alignment problems.


The most puzzling problem is that a lot of the locating pins are too long (or the holes are too shallow).  It is probably easier to drill out the holes. If you don't fix these on the engine it will probably be a misaligned mess. I had to drill almost every mounting hole on the engine, and sand own the semicircular piston barrel mounts. Incidentally, the engine has nothing in common with the Corvair units in the following kits that I have: 69 Corvair;  Astro I, or Meyers Tow'd.  The AMT guys really liked redesigning Corvair engines!


There is no precise mounting method for the upper part of the chassis pan. I puzzled over this for a few days.  What I finally came up with is to sandwich the floor pan, upper floor pan, and upper body together. The upper pan still could move around a bit, but it helped me position it some. I still have the upper pan a bit crooked, but I think it is about .020 inch tone side.  It probably would have been much further off if I hadn't sandwiched it.  If anyone has a better way, let us know. I did check that the engine will install correctly with the pan parts clued together, but do not glue in the brace above the transmission.


I'm currently working on the roof and doors. I found that the lower edge of both doors need to have their corners reshaped slightly to match the openings in the body- this took about 30 seconds for each corner. There was a lot wrong with the drivers side of the roof. First, the front corner of it curves downward, which creates a much larger gap than the passenger side has (that side fit perfectly), and it does not meet the corner if the door opening by about .030 inch.  I had to sand down the front edge of the roof from just behind the front mounting pin to the front edge of the roof. I think s piece of sheet plastic needs to be put on the front of the roof to reach the door opening, but I have not done this yet. I am expecting to need to shim the door openings once the roof is mounted. I also found that the windshield will mount with the roof glued on.  Yes, I am planning to paint the model after the roof is on.


There are a few sink marks on the body top and pan which will nee to be addressed.


For those of you who, like me, want to do the race car or a "standard" Piranha, make sure you read the website I referenced earlier and look at all of the sections. The rear if the body is not the only difference!  You also will need an engine swap.


I'm not knocking the model. It was one my holiest grails, and is pretty well engineered for its day. This build is meant to be a test run of sorts as I m planning to do more. Most of then above faults only take a few minutes to fix and are minor compared to most kits with opening doors and 60s engineering (e.g. the Henry J).  Good luck with your kit and I hope that this helped.