StevenGuthmiller

Chicken and Sausage Gumbo. Steve

I’m not a very good painter either. Never have been. But that’s why I eventually settled on a system that doesn’t require being a good painter in order to achieve a show quality paint job. Getting high quality paint results is without a doubt one of the most challenging aspects of model car building for the vast majority of builders. That’s why I repeatedly suggest the type of regimen that I use to people. Because I’ve learned over 50+ years in the hobby that you absolutely do not have to be a professional painter to get results like one. Steve

Shouldn't be difficult to replace the glass with thin clear plastic sheet. Looks way better than the "too thick" kit glass anyway. I use .007 clear "lay film" on pretty much all of my projects now unless the glass is some wild wrap around with compound curves. Anything relatively flat is quite easy to replace with sheet plastic. Couple of examples. Steve

I can't stress enough the importance of a good layer of clear for polishing purposes. If you plan on polishing your paint, the use of a good quality clear in a sufficient amount will not only guard against removing too much color or burning through the paint, but it has the added benefit of enhancing the color and adding depth to the paint finish. I don't even consider polishing my finishes without several coats of clear lacquer. Maybe just me but it's my opinion that clear is an integral part of the painting process and goes a long way towards eliminating any possible problems with the polishing process. I wouldn't attempt to do it any other way. With a good layer of clear, you don't have to rely on you're hopeful ability to be able to lay down a perfectly smooth paint job, and some orange peel quickly becomes a moot point with the ability to remove it without ever touching the underlying color. Steve

If you’re having issues with not being able to remove scratches, you might want to go back and revisit the entire polishing process. Are you starting with too course of a grit? Are you utilizing every grit all of the way to the finest without skipping any? Are you sufficiently utilizing each grit to it’s full measure? Once finished with the pads or paper, are you also using the Novus polish in succession? (Heavy and fine scratch remover) The scratch and swirl remover that I use has very little abrasive ability, so it serves only to enhance the luster and remove very fine surface anomalies. It’s not really going to remedy any problems of any real depth. Just thinking out loud. 😊 Steve

For the 4th of July celebrations, a big pot of oven BBQ Beef, Homemade Potato Salad, Watermelon, and Chocolate Bread Pudding with Ice Cream for dessert. Steve

Goat Cheese “Juicy Lucy” with Tomato Jam and Oven Fries. Steve

Thai Sweet Chili Shrimp and Vegetables with Jasmine Rice and Fried Dumplings. Steve

I agree! Fill them with styrene if at all possible! Steve

I use Turtle Wax “Scratch and Swirl Remover”. Steve

Ribeye with spinach salad and a baked potato with butter, sour cream, onions and bacon. Steve

Big pot-o-beef stew. 😊 Steve

Shrimp and Sausage Creole with Rice and a Spinach Salad. Steve

Smoked Brisket and baked beans. Steve

Here’s a few meals I’ve prepared over the past month or so. Grilled Pizza, with Alfredo sauce, bacon, mushrooms, fresh mozzarella, arugula and balsamic vinegar. Steve

I don't do fancy custom paint as a rule, although I wouldn't necessarily be afraid to go there. It's just not my genre. My stuff is predominantly factory stock, so my paint work reflects that. I don't remember the last time that I posted anything in this thread, but here are a couple more recent and my "newest" favorite paint jobs. Steve

Keep working on it. It might take a little while to get the hang of it, but I guarantee you that once you do, you'll never go back to doing it any other way. In all honesty, there is no comparison. Just go to a few shows and you'll quickly discover that the vast majority of the best car modelers on the planet are using foil for their trim. There's a reason for that. Steve

Could be. Or it might just be that you got a hold of a bad sheet, or the surface that you're applying it too isn't smooth enough. Foil works best when applied to a smooth, glossy surface. BMF was selling some bad product a couple of years ago due to supply disruptions during the pandemic, but have since returned to original production. You can do whatever you want, but what I will tell you is that I have models in my collection that were foiled decades ago that look exactly as they did 30 years ago, and I don't have to be concerned about what they're going to look like 20 years from now. Properly applied foil will last a lifetime, regardless of the environment or the amount of handling. Nobody can honestly guarantee the same for something like Molotow. It's a complete experiment. Molotow is an ink and was intended for use as a graffiti artist material and was never intended as a permanent solution for anything. It's for that reason that I don't expect it to have any long term viability and don't use it anywhere on my models. BMF is real metal and can be expected to perform as real metal would. I understand that there are those who become frustrated with the occasional subpar workability of BMF, but those who persevere and overcome the occasional difficulties with it are rewarded with a material that in my opinion, looks better than the other options, as well as something that they will never have to watch deteriorate before their eyes. BMF revolutionized the model car hobby probably close to 50 years ago now, and I highly doubt that any of the current "replacements" are going to ever have the same impact as foil has. I think of it from this perspective. Other than a slightly better finish, there's literally almost no advantage of a product such as Molotow over the old Testors "chrome silver" enamel paint. It's not any easier to apply, (except for the pen, which doesn't do a very good or accurate job anyway) and it is about as durable as the Testors enamel was too, rubbing off very easily with even average handling. Okay, so I've rambled enough, and anybody that knows me, knows my stance on chrome inks or paints versus foil and plated parts, so I'll just leave it at that. They're your models, so you need to decide on what will give you the best results. I decided on that, with respect to trim on models, probably close to 40 years ago, and have found no evidence that any changes have become necessary. A few more examples. Steve

Certainly! Just be sure that you have the correct foil, (original, or “new improved) Stay away from the “Ultra Bright” foil. It’s much harder to work with. Before I began replacing door handles on my projects with resin/3-D printed parts, I always used foil for everything, including door handles. You just need to take your time. These are all finished with BMF, and I have many more examples in my collection. Steve

Use foil. 😉 Steve

I’ve never been much of a sports car fan. Most of them are ridiculously expensive, and I’m not much into stuff that is completely unobtainable by the average human being. That said, I do enjoy my 2005 Honda S-2000. If I had to pick a favorite, it certainly wouldn’t be anything modern. I don’t find most of them particularly good looking. Probably a 1956-1967 Corvette, a baby bird, or possibly a early 60s Jag. The rest of them you can have. Steve

If the blue is a lacquer and the white is enamel, you should be able to remove the white with possibly some mineral spirits without damaging the lacquer. Chances are high that even if that works, you may at least have to clear coat to even the color. By the way, you have the same problem at the base of the B-pillar where the white bled under the tape. Steve

Should be able to scrub it off with some Dawn liquid and hot water. Don’t know for sure about the formulation of the Tamiya polish, but it’s worth a try. If it doesn’t work, go to plan B and strip it. Steve

What polish were you using? Steve

I bought one sheet of the black chrome WAY back when I first started using BMF, and never had much luck with adhesion. I stopped buying the colored foils many years ago because they’re all just regular foil with a colored coating which will rub off relatively easily. Steve