StevenGuthmiller

A few more shots after some light weathering. Steve

Still detailing engine parts. Today, I dusted a little aluminum on the carbs to tone down the gold a little and then painted any details that were required, dusted a little steel on the transmission to help achieve a bit more of a used appearance and added some bolt detail to the valve covers. I also added some detail paint to many of the other parts, including the starter and alternator. The engine is painted with one clear coat. I'll throw one more clear coat over almost everything to protect the paint and then it will be time for a wash for a slight weathered look

I agree with the others. I've tried it both ways and have had more satisfactory results by applying after the clear coats. Steve

Looking good so far Bob. I do have one question for you. Being as you're swapping out the interior, chassis, etc, any thought of whether or not to go ahead and open the hood? Seems a shame to go through the detail work that's going to be required for the interior, etc, without considering plopping an engine in it. One more thing, consider drilling out and replacing the headlights as well. I wish that I would have done this modification on a bunch of my vintage stuff. Steve

Use some of the wider stuff. I believe the stuff I use is 3mm. I only buy one size and cut it down to the size I need with a straight edge and X-acto blade. personally, I think the tack is perfect for masking for several colors. If you burnish it down well, it will give you perfect edges. As I said, the ‘61 Buick interior above was done with Tamiya tape and as you can see, no bleed under whatsoever. As with everything, if you take your time, you’ll get good results. Steve

Life is terminal. 😉 Steve

As a famous comedian once joked, “Scientists have recently discovered that saliva may cause stomach cancer. But only if swallowed in small amounts over a long period of time”. Everything will kill you these days. 🙄 Steve

It took a while, but what's time when you're doing something you love! Steve

In my example above, the entire tub started in white primer. Then the parts to remain white were masked and the medium turquoise was air brushed on. After that it was just a matter of masking and brush painting the remainder of the striping. Once the painting was finished, I gave the entire tub a very light dusting of pearl acrylic to give it a metallic sheen. All of the masking was done with Tamiya masking tape. Steve

I use them whenever I can now. As Tom stated, they're really the best option for door locks. Steve

Sometimes, you just have to bite the bullet, take your time, and get out the masking tape. You can do some pretty neat stuff with nothing more than some good masking tape and paint. Steve

Started painting some of the engine parts. I sprayed black primer on the valve covers, followed by a little clear shot from a distance to add some texture. The carbs got Alclad "Pale Burnt Metal", the transmission "Dark Aluminum" and the tranny pan "White Aluminum". The fuel splitter was shot with "Pale Gold", and the exhaust manifolds with layers of "Dark Aluminum", "Exhaust Manifold" and a misting of red primer. The block and other parts are painted flat orange at the moment. I wil

If I’m not mistaken, the “over spray” thing was not a hallmark of Mopars from this time period. It’s been my understanding that the entire floor pan, as well as the engine bay would have been body color. I believe overspray would have been more of a GM/Ford thing. Please, someone correct me if I’m wrong. I will need to know as well for my ‘68 Coronet. Steve

The wheels were constructed using a set of Torque Thrusts from the AMT ‘62 Chevy for their basis. I ground off the outer rim down to the spokes and replaced the rim with a set of custom rims from an AMT ‘67 Ford Galaxie kit that I had leftover. Then I ground off the center caps and replaced them with a set from a Revell Mustang kit. If you want to view the build thread, the easiest way would be to go to my profile, click on the “activity” tab and then click on the “topics” tab under the “forums” heading on the left of the page. The build thread is at the very bottom of pag

Wow, you mean you have to assemble it? That is lousy!!! 😁 Steve

There are a couple of much simpler ways of dealing with this sort of issue. first is to treat the door locks and other small features as you would a script and use the “foil under paint” technique. cover the feature with foil, paint the body and then remove the paint from the door lock, or whatever, with some thinner and a small conical swab or tooth pick. The other even easier solution is to use PE door locks. Steve

😁 This is a little like the technique I use for vinyl tops, but in this circumstance, a little more for the variation in sheen rather than texture. Steve

Something simple, but I decided to try splattering a little clear from a distance over my flat black Hemi valve covers to try to give them a little bit of that "speckled" or "wrinkle" finish. Doesn't look too bad, but I might try to add one more thin coat of flat now and give them the old "finger rub" treatment. Steve

I try to get at least a couple of hours per week at the bench, usually stretched out to many short jaunts. I would love to do more, but there are more often than not too many other things that take precedence over my modeling time. Steve

I believe that all of the main parts for the Hemi are cleaned up and ready for paint. I'm looking forward to finally starting to sling some color around on this project! While waiting for the parts to air dry, I whipped up a fuel splitter and fuel filter. Steve

The boys did a pretty nice job! Steve

That's a pretty car Helmut. Steve

Yeah, there doesn’t seem to be much about the conception of this thread that was constructive at all. Steve

Thanks Bill. I think I’m dialed in for now. another member has the seat on the way to me, and I’ve already raided the tranny from my ‘69 Dart, which I’m certain I’ll regret in the future when it comes time to build my 383 ‘69 Road Runner. 😑 Steve

Parchment was a pretty popular interior color back in the later ‘60s, and as Oldcarfan47 stated, it wasn’t pure white. As a matter of fact, in some cases, there were other variables of white available in the same vehicle. For instance, my 1:1 ‘69 Pontiac Grand Prix was available with either parchment, or pearl, which was a very light bone color like parchment, but with pearl metallic in it. Steve