StevenGuthmiller

I’ve been doing basically the same thing for quite some time, except instead of floor polish, I use a coat of Testor’s clear gloss lacquer. Steve

You can still find this kit relatively cheap. There’s a ton of them out there. Steve

As it's come to my attention that "Little Motor Car Company" is ceasing operation, is there anyone that has any knowledge of a good substitute for a company that will do small batch vacuum metalizing for the hobby? I have no interest in chrome paint as an alternative, so please, don't even bring it up. I guess my real question would be is if anyone has had any interaction with this promising looking company in California. The name is "M&M Metalizing" and according to their website, "There are no minimum quantities, and no job is too small or too large". They also say that "We are happy to plate anything you desire, ie, toys, model figures, etc". It sounds promising. https://mmmetalizing.com/index.html Steve

I have to say that I see a lot of custom roof swaps, (most of which look really dopey) but this one works. Fabulous build all around! Steve

I do this as well. Steve

Couldn't tell you for sure about that particular primer as I've never used it. Could be that it's too hot. These are the ones that I use. Steve

I have 14 finished Johan kits on my shelves right now, and probably 15 to 20 still waiting to be built. Most of these 30 to 35 kits are of the very rare "flat box" variety, along with a few scattered "USA Oldies" kits. I love these kits, and value them more than anything else in my collection. They are true collectors pieces as there is almost zero possibility that any of them will ever be reproduced. If you're a Mopar fan, you absolutely have to love Johan! They produced more interesting Mopar subjects than any other manufacturer, including a full line of Chrysler 300 kits from 1962 to '68, Plymouth Furys from '59 to '68, and full sized Dodges from 1959 until 1964. They also produced the ONLY Desoto model kit ever produced in styrene with the 1960 Desoto Adventurer kit. Of the 14 finished Johan kits that I have in my collection, an even dozen are unusual Mopar subjects, from Dodge Royal Lancers and Dart Phoenixes, to Plymouth Furys, and Chrysler New Yorkers and 300s. The same thing could be said for Cadillac, Oldsmobile and AMC. The bodies are absolute works of art, rivaling any modern kit, and exhibiting remarkable accuracy, especially when you consider their age. While the chassis, and interiors can often leave something to be desired, they lend themselves very well to kit bashing parts from modern kits to produce something finely detailed and truly unique. Steve

Should have been plenty, but I'm not familiar with the "short can" primers. I use Duplicolor "Sandable" primers, (of whatever color) and Duplicolor "Primer Sealer". Tall cans. Usually as many as 4 or 5 coats. Could be the case that the one you're using is a different formula, or as some have said, kit plastic these days is real garbage, or a combination of the two. Likewise, the type of paint that you're having mixed at the parts store is usually extremely hot. Could be that the primer is just not enough of a barrier for it. Steve

How much primer did you use? Steve

Just so you’re aware, Duplicolor automotive lacquer primer is hotter than some other primers, so you’ll get much better results using several light coats rather than one heavy one, just as you will with lacquer color coats, or any paint for that matter. I think that often people get ahead of themselves and begin rushing things, and just as with most things in life, rushing will do more harm than good. You can spray 3 or 4 light coats of primer 15 or 20 minutes apart and expect much better results than you’re going to get with one heavy coat virtually every time. Steve

For some subjects, such as the Super Bird, there are probably better, more detailed kits available, although, in my opinion, the body proportions and accuracy of most Johan kits is unmatched. That said, for much of Johan’s subject matter, there is no option. Where else are you going to find a 60s Rambler? Everything else is secondary as I see it. Steve

That might be all that’s required if it’s just the hood. Steve

Not in my shop at the moment, but my guess would be that most Pontiac kits from 1968 into the mid 70s would have the Rally 2 wheels. Pretty certain that the old MPC ‘69 Firebird/ Trans Am kit had them, as well as the Monogram’70 Trans Am, although I believe that kit is a 1/24th scale kit, as is the Monogram ‘69 GTO. Take a look at the newly released Round-2 ‘68 GTO, or pretty much any Firebird or GTO kit from ‘68 on. My opinion? Order a set from Fireball Modelworks as Mike suggested. Knowing Fireball’s products, they’re going to be better than anything that you’re going to find in a kit anyway. He offers sets with, or without the trim rings. Steve

Maybe I’m missing something, but I don’t see anything that couldn’t be addressed with a couple of coats of clear and a little polishing Steve

I'm not confident that Super Clean will work in this situation. Lacquer over bare plastic is a bad combination for many solutions used for stripping. The paint itself either needs to be dissolved by the product, or it somehow needs to be able to get under it. Lacquer is usually hot enough that without a barrier coat, it's going to etch into the plastic to some degree. In that case, getting under the paint is difficult to say the least, and as Tamiya lacquers have a reputation for being highly impervious to many stripping solutions, dissolving the paint itself could prove difficult as well. I'm not entirely confident that alcohol will do the trick either. In this situation, the OP may have to follow the advice of Graham, or something similar. It's funny, but I hear people frequently recommend brake fluid as "The Best" alternative for stripping paint. Likewise, I hear some oppose it as being the worst. I can't tell you myself as I haven't used it since one failed attempt probably 40 years ago, but I hear that it works well on nearly every type of paint. I also hear that it's quite hard on the plastic. Steve

I knew that prices were going into the stratosphere for some old annual kits, especially the Johans, but I just happened across this today on eBay and almost choked to death! I suppose that I should be happy that I already have one of these! https://www.ebay.com/itm/166361056716?itmmeta=01HRJKQVTPGYCHR5ZPWGC7K92G&hash=item26bbe445cc:g:4cQAAOSwWvNlEvzr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8AvQGYtUENPIYgxs6alM5DEojotfeCnjgssjX2XQvGWLOthDJj81EbDC%2F9LpQlZ4DRzhsGAmji7B%2FM1ScO1HLeB4vHnFkfCYygqDav5QNWItPyZFGWELOV1DjtMatCoOGKjG%2Fj%2F3u2V%2Fxgqgwr26MNnxfprgBFRtsu%2FbHI0aluXWBiGCB%2BVYMd9nd8Atjzc3vLwrpPgZHMwfSk0Lnj66UsHY%2BtYUjD3QxyymeqBePSGd03oEqIElKVI%2BkUWqQdAr1b4pcCEhaftOcL8U1djUPTNqqHDkuM%2FHKYW61sMg0v37Esw90ljI7lTvZgzZgH91EA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7q939PEYw Steve

For future reference, if you use a couple of coats of Duplicolor primer under your paint, regardless of the brand or type, you won't have to go hunting for every obscure chemical suggested for removing this paint, that one, or the other. Super Clean, Easy Off oven cleaner, IPA, brake fluid.....whatever your preferred chemical, should do the trick, regardless if it's Tamiya TS lacquer, automotive lacquer, enamel, or whatever. As long as the chemical can reach the primer at some point, these chemicals will dissolve the primer causing the tougher paints to peel off in sheets. Of course, when choosing a stripping medium, choose the best available of that type. In other words, if using a degreaser/cleaner, use Super Clean, not a cheap knock off such as Purple Power. Just as you would use 99% IPA over a lower percentage, or yellow cap Easy Off versus the blue. As far as I'm aware, none of the products mentioned above will have any detrimental affects on the plastic, although I will not attest to the IPA or brake fluid. I have heard rumors that they may dry out the plastic and make it brittle, but I have no first hand proof of that. However, I can attest to the fact that Super Clean or Easy Off will not damage the plastic. This model was primed with Duplicolor primer, (I don't recall whether it was sandable primer or primer sealer, but it's the same result in either case) and then painted with multiple coats of automotive lacquer and probably 5 coats of automotive clear lacquer. After soaking in Super Clean for a couple of days, the primer begins to dissolve, loosening what ever finish is applied over the top of it to the point of it sloughing off in sheets. The remaining primer can be easily removed simply by wiping down with some alcohol wipes. Just some thoughts that you may use or dismiss as you wish. Steve

Don't know if it will help you or not, but I usually use a product called "Lay Film". It's a rigid, clear vinyl, (PVC) sheet used for overlays and such. The product that I use is Grafix .007 Lay Film. Even a product this thin will not work well if your glass has any compound curves, but I find that it works well for most applications. Steve

JB Weld, "Clear Weld". Steve

Looks like it will fit, but as with most swaps such as this, it will require some modifications. Steve

No, actually I think you were right Peter. I think it would be a great look propping the hood open with a 2x4. Perfect! Steve

It was pretty scary when that trophy went over! Steve

Takes all of 10 seconds to stretch a piece of sprue and would look a whole hell of a lot better than some big honking, ugly *ss tooth pick on the contest table. I'm no judge, but a tooth pick would be an instant turn off for me when there are simple options available that show that a little more thought was involved. Correct. It is a simple answer, and could have been offered without the petulant comments that accompanied it. Seems to me that it was going along quite well until someone decide to interject with sarcasm. Steve

We're just giving him ideas. I don't know how that constitutes a "federal case". The OP asked a question. You could just give him a simple answer rather than try to make him feel like an idiot for asking. Everything you said has been suggested.......only a little more tactfully. Steve

That's why, in my opinion, a piece of stretched sprue, which is included in the kit, should be absolutely acceptable. But, who knows. That decision will be for the judges to decide. Steve