StevenGuthmiller

Maybe I’m missing something, but I don’t see anything that couldn’t be addressed with a couple of coats of clear and a little polishing Steve

I'm not confident that Super Clean will work in this situation. Lacquer over bare plastic is a bad combination for many solutions used for stripping. The paint itself either needs to be dissolved by the product, or it somehow needs to be able to get under it. Lacquer is usually hot enough that without a barrier coat, it's going to etch into the plastic to some degree. In that case, getting under the paint is difficult to say the least, and as Tamiya lacquers have a reputation for being highly impervious to many stripping solutions, dissolving the paint itself could prove difficult as well. I'm not entirely confident that alcohol will do the trick either. In this situation, the OP may have to follow the advice of Graham, or something similar. It's funny, but I hear people frequently recommend brake fluid as "The Best" alternative for stripping paint. Likewise, I hear some oppose it as being the worst. I can't tell you myself as I haven't used it since one failed attempt probably 40 years ago, but I hear that it works well on nearly every type of paint. I also hear that it's quite hard on the plastic. Steve

I knew that prices were going into the stratosphere for some old annual kits, especially the Johans, but I just happened across this today on eBay and almost choked to death! I suppose that I should be happy that I already have one of these! https://www.ebay.com/itm/166361056716?itmmeta=01HRJKQVTPGYCHR5ZPWGC7K92G&hash=item26bbe445cc:g:4cQAAOSwWvNlEvzr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8AvQGYtUENPIYgxs6alM5DEojotfeCnjgssjX2XQvGWLOthDJj81EbDC%2F9LpQlZ4DRzhsGAmji7B%2FM1ScO1HLeB4vHnFkfCYygqDav5QNWItPyZFGWELOV1DjtMatCoOGKjG%2Fj%2F3u2V%2Fxgqgwr26MNnxfprgBFRtsu%2FbHI0aluXWBiGCB%2BVYMd9nd8Atjzc3vLwrpPgZHMwfSk0Lnj66UsHY%2BtYUjD3QxyymeqBePSGd03oEqIElKVI%2BkUWqQdAr1b4pcCEhaftOcL8U1djUPTNqqHDkuM%2FHKYW61sMg0v37Esw90ljI7lTvZgzZgH91EA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7q939PEYw Steve

For future reference, if you use a couple of coats of Duplicolor primer under your paint, regardless of the brand or type, you won't have to go hunting for every obscure chemical suggested for removing this paint, that one, or the other. Super Clean, Easy Off oven cleaner, IPA, brake fluid.....whatever your preferred chemical, should do the trick, regardless if it's Tamiya TS lacquer, automotive lacquer, enamel, or whatever. As long as the chemical can reach the primer at some point, these chemicals will dissolve the primer causing the tougher paints to peel off in sheets. Of course, when choosing a stripping medium, choose the best available of that type. In other words, if using a degreaser/cleaner, use Super Clean, not a cheap knock off such as Purple Power. Just as you would use 99% IPA over a lower percentage, or yellow cap Easy Off versus the blue. As far as I'm aware, none of the products mentioned above will have any detrimental affects on the plastic, although I will not attest to the IPA or brake fluid. I have heard rumors that they may dry out the plastic and make it brittle, but I have no first hand proof of that. However, I can attest to the fact that Super Clean or Easy Off will not damage the plastic. This model was primed with Duplicolor primer, (I don't recall whether it was sandable primer or primer sealer, but it's the same result in either case) and then painted with multiple coats of automotive lacquer and probably 5 coats of automotive clear lacquer. After soaking in Super Clean for a couple of days, the primer begins to dissolve, loosening what ever finish is applied over the top of it to the point of it sloughing off in sheets. The remaining primer can be easily removed simply by wiping down with some alcohol wipes. Just some thoughts that you may use or dismiss as you wish. Steve

Don't know if it will help you or not, but I usually use a product called "Lay Film". It's a rigid, clear vinyl, (PVC) sheet used for overlays and such. The product that I use is Grafix .007 Lay Film. Even a product this thin will not work well if your glass has any compound curves, but I find that it works well for most applications. Steve

JB Weld, "Clear Weld". Steve

Looks like it will fit, but as with most swaps such as this, it will require some modifications. Steve

No, actually I think you were right Peter. I think it would be a great look propping the hood open with a 2x4. Perfect! Steve

It was pretty scary when that trophy went over! Steve

Takes all of 10 seconds to stretch a piece of sprue and would look a whole hell of a lot better than some big honking, ugly *ss tooth pick on the contest table. I'm no judge, but a tooth pick would be an instant turn off for me when there are simple options available that show that a little more thought was involved. Correct. It is a simple answer, and could have been offered without the petulant comments that accompanied it. Seems to me that it was going along quite well until someone decide to interject with sarcasm. Steve

We're just giving him ideas. I don't know how that constitutes a "federal case". The OP asked a question. You could just give him a simple answer rather than try to make him feel like an idiot for asking. Everything you said has been suggested.......only a little more tactfully. Steve

That's why, in my opinion, a piece of stretched sprue, which is included in the kit, should be absolutely acceptable. But, who knows. That decision will be for the judges to decide. Steve

A few months ago, I was moving a few things around in one of my model cases, and like a klutz, knocked a big *ss trophy over onto the back quarter panel of my '65 Fury!! Luckily, no paint damage, but it did crush the rear suspension! As I was hoping to take this model to a show in a couple of weeks, it was time to pull it into the shop for some repairs. Fortunately, no real "breaks". Just failures of the glue joints. This was one of the last models that I assembled using CA glue, and after inspecting how and where the parts came apart, it became quite obvious to me that had I used my current preferred 2-part epoxy for assembly, the damage to the rear suspension would have been much less extensive. I suppose that the argument could possibly be made that had the rear suspension not collapsed as easily as it did, a breakage could have occurred in a worse spot, such as in the body, but I'll have to wait until I make another stupid mistake to find that out. In any case, I was very happy to be able to rescue this, one of my prized models, without any major devastation. A little dusty, but like new again. Steve

For anyone looking for something to do in the ides of March in the vast wasteland of southern Minnesota, eastern South Dakota, or in my case, eastern North Dakota, there will be a small IPMS show held from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM at 400 South State Street in Fairmont Minnesota on Saturday, March 16th. No flyer to show, and it's a very small show, but it's something to do on a clammy late winter afternoon. Steve

You know I'll be there!! Steve

Just stretch a piece of sprue the correct thickness to be relatively thin for visual purposes, but strong enough to hold up the hood, paint it the color of your choice, and take it with you. Once you're at the show, explain what it's made of and ask if it's acceptable to use. If not, display with the hood on or off, just as everyone else in the category will be required to do. This is one of the many reasons why I never compete in the "box stock" categories. Too many little rules to consider. I've won awards with basically box stock curbside builds in just the regular factory stock category. Steve

Watch your wallet. A lot of scams going on on Facebook lately. People ordering hundreds of dollars worth of "cheap" kits from questionable sources and receiving nothing but the shaft in return. Still surprises me how many people are blinded by their pursuit of cheap stuff. Steve

I suppose you could cheat and use mini magnets! 😁 Steve

The absolute best way of course is to drill out the molded in lenses and replace them with clear lenses. Any solution that you can come up with for the reflectors is acceptable. Most times I'll use reflectors from a different grille and modify them to fit. Then it's just a matter of replacing the lenses with some from the parts box. The other option is to paint the lenses with some combination of clear mixed with very small amounts of white and silver. It can look acceptable, but rarely looks "right". This '64 Bonneville used buckets and lenses from the Moebius '61 Pontiac Ventura kit. Steve

In all honesty, a few decades ago. I was perfectly happy using rattle cans, and was reasonably proficient with them, but at some point I became aware that companies such as MCW and Scale Finishes offered premixed, ready to airbrush paint in virtually every color ever offered by auto manufacturers and I was instantly on board. It’s the “only” reason that I bought my first airbrush! Steve

I only have one bottle of Scale Finishes engine enamel that I bought several years ago, and had very good luck with it. That’s the only experience that I’ve had personally with Scale Finishes enamel, but it sprayed beautifully and dried quickly for me. Steve

Personally, I prefer MCW. Mostly because I find their metallics to be more in scale. On the other hand, Scale Finishes is an equally good product as far as workability, and more economical in the end, with twice as much paint for a few dollars more. They are both excellent products! Steve

It has nothing to do with our "favorite adhesives". It's just a matter of finding a solution that will work for the OP. If that happens to be "melted cheese" as Bill said, so be it. Steve

Scale Finishes offers all of their automotive colors in gloss enamel, or "base coat" lacquer. If you visit the website main page, click on "automotive colors", choose a make, click on the year, then click on the little arrow in the price box, a little drop down will appear with the choice of "Base Coat", or "Gloss Enamel". Base coat lacquers are generally $12.99. Enamels are $12.49. I don't know if it's the case anymore, but there used to be some issues with the enamels drying. I use the base coat lacquers myself, and have had very good luck with them. Steve

In regards to this particular epoxy, yes. It was essentially dismissed as a loser, and rejected as just another typical epoxy pretty much from the start. Steve