Mark

If you must buy a kit for parts, think about a Round 2 reissue '67 Charger. It will have the glass, as well as a chassis similar to the original '66 kit unit.

AMT '64 Corvair. Available only as a promo or Craftsman series kit, the latter molded in yellow.

The good 3D printers are most likely hobbyists who know the subject matter and know what other hobbyists expect in terms of quality. 3D seems to have attracted "printers" who will crank out whatever they think will make money, with no knowledge of what they are making or what it should look like. I doubt the first group would have sent something like that out.

Fuel tank/spare tire area is different between Charger and Coronet. The MPC Charger kit underbody was originally used in their '65 Coronet, they made other minor alterations for the Charger but that area was the most obvious change.

The pro street '70 Coronet had the DOHC Hemi parts. That kit's tubbed floorpan is different from the one used in the GTX and Roadrunner.

Clear coat. Polishing anything metallic or pearlescent will knock edges and corners off of the particles in the paint already there.

I wouldn't overthink it. They likely used the parts layout from the previous pro street issue in error. The kit will be the stock one this time around.

If it's a promo model, it will be made of acetate as opposed to styrene. Acetate doesn't just warp, it can be a combination of warping and shrinking. I have heard about, and read articles about, various fixes but have never heard about any of them being permanent.

Hubley is 1/24 scale, AMT (both original and newer one) 1/25.

There's a variety of factors to contend with: composition of tires, composition of plastic, as well as the infinite number of combinations of vinyl and plastic. The worst tires I have encountered are early Sixties Revell units. Those often wreak havoc on their wheels because: (a) Revell plating was weak then, often applied with no lacquer coating on the plastic as other manufacturers did, and (b) their plated parts were often molded in clear plastic. It's a shame, as a couple of those early tires were never made later in a more plastic friendly material.

Can't see them.

The build of DF2 is covered in six parts: April through October '69, except August which does not include an article. It does include a couple of unrelated Jim Keeler articles however. October '68 issue includes an article on DF1.

Fever I was a '68 Coronet, the one Jim Keeler built to win a Car Model contest in 1968. The contest centered around the MPC '68 Coronet kit. Tim Boyd placed in that contest also.

That particular body is that thick because the kit was conceived and designed strictly as a curbside, with no intention to include interior detail.

Yes. Especially clear plastic.

I like what I do, but have always separated that from any feeling of fulfillment. I'm working because I have developed habits such as wanting a roof over my head, and not begging others for food. Not a millionaire, but my house is paid for, my car could easily be, and I've got enough set aside for coming house remodeling as well as retirement. I haven't always had the luxury of working with (or for) people I liked or even tolerated, but only once did I quit a job to get away from the drama. As much as I like what I do, it's just a means to an end. That doesn't stop me from doing my work to the best of my abilities every day. You want fulfillment, look elsewhere: family, friends, your community, your church, hobbies, and other outside activities. If you get any fulfillment at work, that's a bonus.

No. The only issue was available into the early Seventies if I remember right. Some of its parts (mainly the engine) are in the reissues of the MPC '67 Corvette.

I'd use a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput or Magic Sculpt. The trim strip can be added with styrene strip after the area is smoothed and the door line is reestablished. One thing that MUST be done first is to grind out ALL of the surface damage; that is, wherever the tire contacted the body. Chemicals from the tire have migrated into the plastic and softened it. All of that has to go, otherwise it will keep working behind the repair.

I used to question "leaving more space" between me and the vehicle in front of me, but did a rethink a few years ago and started doing it myself. It "paid off" in November 2023, when someone rammed the back of my car. Hit hard enough to push one of the rear wheels forward, totalling the car, but didn't push me into the car in front of me. At least I didn't have to deal with a third party. Another thing to watch for, if there's a truck in front of you, is a trailer towing ball on an extension attached to their hitch. They're hanging out there just waiting to poke a hole in the front of your car. Most of them look to be easily removable, yet these numbnuts won't take the thing off and toss it in the bed or tool box.

The Lindberg and Airfix Type K Firebirds are the same kit. An old Scale Auto Enthusiast article shows the Lindberg kit being kitbashed with a Monogram Trans Am to make a full detail Type K.

Yesterday's "haul" from NNL East. Didn't take any "big ticket" items to sell, still did better than I thought I would, and spent a fraction of that. The '48 Ford sedan is only roughed out but the work done so far looks symmetrical. I'll chop out the offensive areas one at a time, for three bucks it's worth messing with. If the fix is successful, I've got a spare '48 coupe to drop this body on. I was surprised those two Moebius kits weren't cleaned out by the time I got to the Model King stand. The Falcon is a convertible, looks rough but is actually quite nice. Nothing sanded off or glued over, no hole in the hood, just needs its paint removed and a good soak to loosen up the windshield glass. If I have to grind it out, it might become a hardtop with the roof from an altered wheelbase '65 body. Another one for the pile. The Cutlass had the engine assembled and the custom parts are gone, but the body and stock chrome are untouched. I was looking for a second one to build a stretched body for a Vista Cruiser conversion, and there it was, cheap. The STS decals are for a '79 Bronco, also a Mopar Mod Top. The AMX body came from the JoHan table, it is damaged but will be cut apart so I can resin cast its perfectly straight A-pillars to save a couple of Javelin and AMX bodies. Not shown is a Monogram Hurst Hairy Olds decal sheet (had a kit missing one) and this year's T-shirt.

The Longnose Mustang sold well enough to have been issued in two different boxes back in the day.

Bottom one is from the newer tool Revell (ex-Monogram) convertible or hardtop '55.

You might consider intentionally routing out the surface just below the emblem, so as to require filling. Fill with a two-part spot putty, apply primer in that area with a brush, sand, repeat until smooth. The ghosting can also be eliminated by brushing liquid cement over the affected area and sanding smooth. It does work for me, I tend to do the same area twice over to make sure.

The '64 covers are as close as you're going to get to '63. '63 kits have eight-lug wheels.