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Everything posted by Mark

  1. 1:1 car painters I have talked to, really concentrate on matching the spray pattern on adjoining panels. They have told me that paint colors can be matched better than ever, especially those with clearcoat. The reason for mismatch between adjoining panels on repaired cars is due to the difference in spray pattern between the replaced panels and the (often) robotically sprayed original areas, so they say. So spraying everything at the same time, in the same way, will definitely help.
  2. One might think the '64 GP might still exist, as many of the Seventies reissue "Grand Slam" '65 kits had '64 clear parts in the box (which didn't fit of course). I took one kit back to the store, and opened two more there...all had '64 glass. If I wanted to open another one, I had to take one of them...so I opted for my money back. Another one I got in a collection some years later also had '64 glass. Later production kits may have had the correct piece, but I never ran across one. Then again, the '65 kit has much of the engine from the '64. The same is true of the Bonneville kits...some engine parts (different tooling from the GP) are in '61 through '65 annual kits, and all reissues of the '65.
  3. I would never paint anything in such a way that I'd have to cut through freshly applied paint to separate the parts. That would be like painting a door in your house shut.
  4. Solid color: paint everything separately. Metallic, candy, pearl: paint jambs, back sides, undersides, and insides, then paint everything together. It might be possible to space the doors away from the body so nothing touches, yet everything gets the same blast of paint.
  5. HL and Michael's buy much larger quantities than anyone else, they are probably still selling off stock bought months ago. Michael's stores around here haven't gotten anything new in months.
  6. All of them use the same size rear tires. I'd think the tubs would be about the same size also.
  7. My mower had a carb problem last year, rather than mess with it I took it to a repair facility. If the gas tank was full on the previous mower, I'd turn it on one side and dump the gas out of the tank through the fill hole, then run it until the remaining gas ran out. I did that again with this one, turning it onto the side that was closest to the fill hole. The guy told me that was the "wrong" side, as the carb is on that side. But if I'd turned it the other way, not much gas would have come out as the filler would have been at the high end of the fuel tank when turned to that side. Now it's acting up again...I think I'll blow the fuel line out and clean the carb even though I haven't turned it on its side. I bought another carb (eight bucks for a new one online) as a backup. By the time I need another mower, or get tired of this one, the electrics will probably be perfected. The first mower (engine) lasted over twenty years, it outlasted several decks. The sheet metal deck would develop a crack, I'd have my brother weld it, and it would fracture somewhere near the weld. Last time around, I garbage picked another mower with a cast deck and swapped my engine onto it. Problem solved.
  8. If you have the choice locally, get "recreational gas" which is 100% gasoline, no alcohol.
  9. And, while you are at it, check the kit body against all reference material you can dig up. MPC probably cheated the body in one or more ways, in order to make it fit the Ford GT underpinnings. I'd make sure the body is as correct as can be, then do what needs to be done to get the Beetle pan underneath it.
  10. Get a stock Beetle pan anyway. If you have to shorten it, you can do so to match up with what you need, and the alteration will be that much more authentic.
  11. For kit parts, take a look at the AMT pro street '70 Coronet, and '69 GTX. The two kits have different floor pans (Coronet kick up is higher) and each kit has different suspension setups, so you want to examine both before making your choice. Both kits have better 426 Hemi engines than what is in the Little Red Wagon also.
  12. I didn't say there was a 1:1 '69, only that MPC made a '69 version of their kit. The '68 version was likely a good seller, so they probably wanted to sell more after the body had been updated to '69 spec.
  13. '69 had different box art, similar to that copied by RC2 for their infamous Nostalgia Series reissue of the AMT '66.
  14. MPC offered that kit in both '68 and '69 versions. I have one complete '69 and parts of another including the body (which, for this kit, has the hood molded closed).
  15. The MPC '60 Corvette does not have the radiused rear wheel openings like their '57 always did. The flip-front '60 does have them though. The AMT '60 kit pictured is indeed a '60. It has the '60 seat upholstery pattern and an engine, which the (SMP) '59 kits did not have. The confusion stems from the first couple of reissues which were boxed as '59. The Revell kit with the multiple piece body really quite a good kit) is always called a '60 but is actually a '59. Again, correct for '59 upholstery details. The original issue, with stock wheel covers and plastic tires, is labeled a '59 if I remember right. Annual kits were branded SMP through '61. There was no Corvette annual kit in '58. The shape of the side coves on the newer tool AMT '57 body are a bit off.
  16. The MPC annual wasn't very good, but the AMT annual kit body was nearly as good (if not just as good) as the Revell which was tooled 25 years later. It was a shame AMT hacked that kit up to use the body in a funny car rather than hang on to it for a reissue down the road. But maybe the annuals hadn't sold well enough to make anyone think about that.
  17. No way to tell...they weren't in the '71 annual, and when that one was restored by Ertl in the late Eighties, they chose to put the '71 optional parts back in. The '72 parts weren't exactly like the show car. Someone who really wants that version can probably work it up on their own.
  18. Jo-Han included a similar grille in their '70 Road Runner kit, and MPC included a version in their '72 kit that resembled the red car. Nobody is going to tool new parts for existing kits, to build fifty year old auto show cars that are pretty much forgotten to anyone other than hardcore Mopar fans.
  19. Pretty sure the Fonzie version had part of the raised top removed (didn't go all the way forward to the windshield). Change for the sake of change.
  20. He should list it on websites catering to '56 Ford owners. Someone who owns a few 1:1 '56 Fords is going to really, really want that.
  21. Mustang was issued four times: Mach I concept (molded in red) 1967 Autolite Hi-Per Special (molded in metallic blue) 1968 Superstang Gasser (molded in yellow) 1969 Iron Horse (molded in white) 1974 Chassis and engine will be reissued in the coming stock '66 fastback.
  22. A guy I used to know was big into Oldsmobiles, and probably did a couple dozen of these conversions. There might be some interference from the underside of the interior bucket, where the shifter fits in from below. Other than that and making sure the tailpipes line up with the molded-in extensions, you should be set. Engines changed little between '69 and '70, use the one that goes with the chassis. I'm pretty sure the 350 engines were gold, the 400 and 455 were metallic blue. Someone else will know better and can clear that part of it up.
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