Mark

It seems to have gone extinct. That tape, and most of the dry transfer (rub-on) letters and numbers, were used mainly by architects and draftsmen, all of which have moved on to other means of doing their work.

If you are building anything resembling a stock wagon, go for one of the resin bodies instead of the kit piece. The kit body is way off proportionally.

If you have one of the AMT pro street '70 Coronet kits, take a look at that. The dual overhead cam Hemi engine setup includes a single four-barrel carb intake that might look right on a regular 426 Hemi engine.

Not sure that hood was available on anything but the FX package cars. Hopefully the scoops are add-ons, or the scoopless hood is in there too.

There weren't a lot of single four-barrel 426 Hemi intakes. Most 1:1 units resemble the Jo-Han piece which was in any of their Hemi engine cars that included a NASCAR version ('64 Plymouth, '69 Roadrunner, '70 Superbird to name three). MPC put one in some of their annual kits, but theirs is lame compared to the Jo-Han piece. There might be a kit or two with one that looks like the "tub" style used on other NASCAR engines of the period, but for a street or drag version the Jo-Han unit is what you want. Though stock 426 Hemis all used dual four-barrel carb setups (Chrysler wanted a higher CFM rating for Stock and Super Stock classes), there were single carb setups that were raced. Arlen Vanke did some development on single four-barrel setups as he ran them in AHRA GT classes in the late Seventies. Chrysler tried a single carb to try to get the Street Hemi past smog standards for '72, but couldn't quite get there.

Too, with any of the two-part stuff, bagging the putty once opened is a great idea. Even better is to bag the putty and catalyst separately and don't store them right next to each other. I don't have experience with the U-POL product pictured, but other products of theirs are quite good. I'm seeing their stuff in auto parts stores (O'Reilly recently moved into my area after Pep Boys exited the parts business to concentrate on the repair shops). Excepting the U-POL which I don't know about, the other putties use the same catalyst as other two-part fillers. Those tubes separate, dry out, and crack open over time. You can get those catalyst tubes separately at Home Depot, Lowe's, what have you. Don't toss the big tube when the little one goes bad.

The old, red, single-stage glazing putty, and old lacquer primers ALWAYS shrank. The putty is, at its essence, extremely unthinned lacquer primer. It was either Von Dutch, or probably Dean Jeffries, who started doing their stylized pinstriping in areas where the car had been "nosed" and "decked" (scripts and emblems removed from hood and deck lid). The pinstriping was done in part to help hide grinder marks in those areas, that flared up later after the primer and putty shrank under the lacquer paint applied over the work.

Yes, the current convertible kit's body is relatively new tooling compared with the coupe. Convertible-related parts (like stock and custom tops) do not interchange exactly between "old" and "new" convertibles. Both now use the coupe interior, chassis, and other parts whereas the annual coupe and convertible kits each used their own tooling. (What remains of the original '63-'67 convertible is now part of the custom '68 kit that was reissued a couple of years ago.)

You don't want to sand that sealer primer. Doing so "opens it up", the top coat will likely raise sanding scratches in that area. Anything I use lacquer paint on gets a quick blast of sealer primer. The sprays seem to have less "solids" and more "carrier" (reducer) lately, making the paint thinner and needing more of it to cover. The sealer helps reduce the possibility of scratches or imperfections showing through the primer.

Asking ain't getting. Those listings have probably rolled over numerous times, possibly over multiple years.

If you watched a lot of Supernatural, one thing you might remember is the creaking of the Impala's door hinges. That car got destroyed and resurrected several times over the course of the series, yet nobody ever thought to tackle those noisy hinges.

There was also an ARDUN conversion for the 60. It doesn't look like the better known "big engine" setup though.

Through 1940 here. The 1941 Fords were a bit bigger and heavier, the 60 was passable in areas without a lot of hills but was borderline at best. It wouldn't have worked at all in a '41. During '41 Ford introduced a straight six, and also made an inline four that was created for pickups, but some claim a handful of them made it into cars. The inline engines had more torque than the miniature V8, so they were workable whereas the 60 really wasn't up to the job.

The one story I saw was about a fantasy game oriented store in Quebec closing (or possibly relocating) due to more restrictive French-language regulations coming in. Pretty much everything he sells would have to have it on the packaging, and a lot of those items come from smaller companies that can't/won't devote much effort to that, as they can sell everything they make now. Hobby shops aren't closing because of pricing, they're closing because it's not the greatest business to be in. Lots of "dead stock" on the shelves, and lots of people buying kits a few bucks cheaper elsewhere. The local shop can't keep the doors open selling bottles of paint and other small stuff.

2 versions coming in the near future...but there will be more down the road. Stock, pro touring, factory FX with big and small engines. The pro touring might he a response to possible criticism of the non-stock Nova hardtops (though I myself have never heard or read any). The Nova street machine versions aren't the most up to date (though there are still lots of 1:1 cars out there like them). It will be interesting to see what they go with for a power train for that one. Moebius' mantra with car and light truck kits is to design in several versions right off the bat, and so far it has paid off for them. That would seem to be the right strategy for the subject matter they have been choosing.

If I were trying to piece one together, I'd avoid including any part of the Trumpeter Falcons, as they are an outlier compared to the AMT and Moebius kits. They're way different in parts layout and construction, and probably in dimensions as well. I had one of the Falcons, but got rid of it pronto after seeing how off base it was compared to anything else. Why they saw the need to reinvent so many aspects of a model car kit, I'll never understand. All they had to do was bring some subjects nobody else had, and do a halfway decent job of it.

I've never seen a '65 wagon, but did see a '64 wagon in resin a few years back. Of course it was based on the AMT '64 hardtop, but the resin wagon used the hardtop windshield which is incorrect. The Comet wagons were basically Falcon wagons with Comet front sheet metal, and on the Falcon's shorter wheelbase. If a resin body (for either the AMT '64 or Moebius '65) uses the Comet chassis unchanged, it's wrong right off the bat.

There are similar wire wheels in the latest reissue '66 Thunderbird kit. Round 2 also sells those as a parts pack (five wheels and four tires).

They were trying to make it look like the then highly successful Honda CR-X. Should have stuck with the original styling. I read somewhere that there was to have been a Chevrolet version, strictly a fuel-economy oriented commuter car. GM probably should have built that too, the sales between Chevy and Pontiac would have kept the car around a lot longer.

Revell '55 Chevy. NOT the newer kit they have sold in recent years, but the old, opening-doors one they last issued in the Nineties. Atlantis probably has that kit tooling now; if so, it's just a matter of time as to its being reissued.

Looks like '58 Cadillac to me.

I'd just clean that GTO up, and in the display case it goes. I never did find a complete one, but did find a parts box with the roof from one in it.

They sell those same wheels as "rat rod" wheels now. They are semi-gloss black instead of chrome, and don't have the wire baskets. You're supposed to paint/pinstripe them to individualize them.

It's 1/32 scale, could be Pyro. Palmer knocked off a number of Pyro kits, it could be one of those also. One of them (Pyro I believe) was last available as a Lindberg kit.

I can't find it, but there is/was a YouTube short video showing a mechanic trying to remove the cam cover in (IIRC) a Chevy Colorado. The intake manifold has to come off to get to the cam cover, as it crosses over the top of it. Somehow that leads to the front cover coming off, and that incorporates the engine's oil pump. To get all of that off, the oil pan has to come off. To get to that, he's tearing into the front suspension. Someone mentioned the first-generation Colorado having been designed be GM and Isuzu. Actually it was mostly GM, as they reworked most of Isuzu's original work. I remember test driving one in 2004 when I was looking for a new pickup. Push the button to roll the passenger side window up/down, and see the interior door panel flexing. That was the first truck that got scratched off the shopping list. GM made sure to clear all of the S-10s off the dealer lots before sending out any Colorados (except crew cab 4 X 4s, as the Colorado equivalent wasn't being built yet). They would have been way smarter to just update the S-10 back then.