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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Everything posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports

  1. I'd save my money and get something like a Pace or Paasche, a "real" paint booth. Quality and safety wise, you'll be money ahead.
  2. Yes, it is "4 for 1" price wise, but if you ruin a model with it, what have you saved? Testors enamels, unless you have an airbrush and use their thinner or lacquer thinner, stay away from them too. They never dry. You can use a thermostatically controlled food dehydrator to force dry Testors and other paints too. Another tip is to warm the can in hot tap water before painting. It helps the paint to fully atomize and flow better. You want Testors Model Master lacquers, Testors One Coat lacquers, or Tamiya TS spray lacquers. Testors spray lacquer colors Tamiya spray lacquer colors Duplicolor Perfect Match colors are not shown visually on line that I can find. I HIGHLY recommend spending a little more money and trying the Testors and Tamiya lacquers. They are safe for styrene, dry fast and are easy to apply. Do you have a Hobby Lobby near where you live? They offer 40% off coupons about two times per month and you can use them to purchase the Testors lacquer paints. There are numerous online sources for Testors and Tamiya lacquer sprays that will save you money as well. If you really want to use Krylon, proceed with caution. Cheaper is not always better.
  3. Do you have access to hobby paints like the Testors and Tamiya lacquers locally? If not, order some online. Otherwise, skip the Krylon and go to your local auto parts store and get some Duplicolor sandable or filler primer and some Duplicolor spray paint, both color and clear. What is your reason for wanting to use Krylon? Availability? Price? Color selection? Some people have good luck with the stuff but it is more for household applications like painting wood, metal, and plastics other than model kit styrene. Even though it is called and enamel, the solvents are too hot for model car styrene. Do not use Krylon primer. Use the Duplicolor primer before you shoot Krylon as it will provide a better barrier. Krylon tends to spray too heavy for model car usage as well. If Krylon is all you have access to, then use it with caution. There are better choices out there IMHO. Krylon would be a last resort for me.
  4. First time viewing this thread...un-FREAKING-believable!!!
  5. It's best to use RTV silicone for a resin mold. You can use clay for one off stuff, one piece molds. I tried it once and experienced the same issue that you are.
  6. I wholeheartedly recommend thinning Acryl with Testors acrylic thinner only. It works the best IMHO.
  7. The street machine version of this kit came with the AG hood. Missing Link offers it in resin.
  8. I like it too, but the one and only improvement would be to make it a 2011-12 model with the new Coyote 5.0!!!
  9. I'll be watching this one. One of the last kits I started as a teenager before I gave up the hobby.
  10. After a 15 month hiatus, this one is back on the bench. I started this build nearly SEVEN YEARS AGO and this time I am committed to finishing it. After I finished applying BMF on my '64 Falcon build, I grabbed the Mustang from the shelf and finished applying BMF to it. Then, I added the painted Model Car Garage photoetch grille and installed the chrome headlight buckets that came in the original AMT 1966 Mustang kit. At this time, the Mustang is at the same stage of completion as the '64 Falcon, so the plan is to work on them simultaneously until both are finished. Stay tuned and enjoy the ride!
  11. I've never tried it, but have read on a number of forums posts from modelers who tried it and did not like it. Could not strip it either.
  12. I totally understand the value proposition by using Krylon, etc, for model cars. The few times I tried these paints 15 years ago when I returned to the hobby, I got burned with crazing. They are not formulated to work on styrene models. At least use a primer like Duplicolor and their line of automotive touch up paints. If you don't want to ruin a $40 model, use the right paint. Get some Duplicolor sandable or filler primer, and better yet, get some Testors or Tamiya hobby lacquers. You'll be glad you did!
  13. Not a fan of the "big can stuff" for model cars. That said, the best flat black for model cars is Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black.
  14. Pactra Aqua Wave, kinda blue turquoise flip flop paint. You better test that pearl white over the yellow as I don't think it will give you what you are looking for. Get some Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear and shoot that over the Chrysler Yellow. That will give you the look you want. I did this over Wimbledon White on my '64 Falcon that it "On the Workbench" right now.
  15. I don't know about the Pactra over the Testors lacquers, but I sprayed this one with Pactra RC paint on top of Tamiya primer with no problems. Cleared with Tamiya TS-13. If I were you, I would test it on a spare part or a plastic spoon. Which Testors MM paint are you talking about?
  16. Simply the result of 50+ year old tooling. Enjoy it for what it is, use your skills to make it as good as you can. The modeling community really could use a modern-tooled 1961-62 Corvette. Revell has a good start with it's beautiful 1959.
  17. Tamiya TS-7 Racing White is comparable to Wimbledon White if you have access to it at your LHS.
  18. Go to Walmart and look for 91% isopropol (rubbing) alcohol. It has a red label on the bottle vs the blue label on 70%. 70% isn't strong enough so don't buy it. Get a couple of quart bottles and a plastic container with a lid. You will want to keep the container sealed as the alcohol is highly flammable! Do not smoke or use any type of flame or spark when working with alcohol.
  19. Doesn't happen as much since Ebay revised the final value fee to include shipping, but remember the sellers that would "Buy it Now" for 99 cents and have a high shipping charge? I remember shopping custom wheels for my 1:1 a few years back and seeing a set of 4 wheels for $.99 with $400-500 shipping!
  20. That Krylon primer is a real problem. Too hot for plastic and by the pictures it looks to have crazed the plastic, possibly rendering that body unusable. Unless you want to use Tamiya primer when it becomes available again, use Duplicolor filler primer. Also, why use Testors Guards Red ENAMEL when Tamiya makes the same color in their excellent LACQUER formula?
  21. Ebay means...caveat emptor. Let the buyer beware. I've had over 700 Ebay transactions in 10+ years. Only a handful of times can I say I got "burned" or made a bad deal, but I never blamed it on the seller. Since I primarily purchase vintage builders, it is often difficult to assess the condition of the model by the pictures and the seller's description. The AMT 1964 Falcon I am currently restoring was a success. Paint stripped with no problems. Glass and chrome not glued to the body. Other parts lightly glued. I've bought a few that were lacquer crazed, undetectable in the pictures. Bought many that were truly "glue bombs". Paid $70+ for a sealed MPC 1974 Dodge Challenger annual that had this inside. This wasn't the seller's fault, just one of the risks in purchasing sealed, vintage kits. Have I overpaid for stuff? Sure, we all have. Easy to get caught up in the "auction" thinking that this is the last one and I have to have it! Regardless of how rare a model is, another one will show up in due time. I've paid lots of money for what turned out to be junk and have found bargains on rare gems. Like I opened this post, caveat emptor...let the buyer beware.
  22. Finally got some bench time this weekend. I polished the paint and applied 60% or so of the chrome trim. Haven't built a model with this much chrome trim since I built a Johan 1959 Rambler wagon. All of the passenger side trim still needs done. I plan to paint the vent window frames with matt black paint. Marc
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