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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Everything posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports

  1. That would be the Motown/Mopar Missle Pro Stock kit. The black styrene and gutted interior are the clues.
  2. Unless you REALLY want to do it yourself, I recommend spending $15 or so and get Jimmy Flintstone's chopped '49 Ford body. My time is worth the price.
  3. You will need the hood from the Chevelle kit. I have one of these that is pretty much cleaned up and ready for primer, been that way for a few years. If you aren't familiar with resin, do a search here for lots of tips. If you want chrome bumpers, you can get a 1969 El Camino rear bumper and taillights and a 1972 Chevelle front bumper from Modelhaus.
  4. I use Microscale Krystal Klear white glue, but other similar glues will work.
  5. I used MV Lenses for the headlights after I drilled out the molded in ones. I didn't bother with the turn signals. I really need to take some decent pics of the finished model. I never did that.
  6. Very nice looking build! What kit did you source the small block and headers? The Modelhaus bumpers that are sourced from the 1969 annual and promo is what I used on my '69 Chevelle. It is the only way to go when building this car.
  7. I just sent the bumpers and grille to Little Motor Kar for replating, so this one might just move up the list a few notches. LMK if there is anything else you might need. I'm keeping mine all metal axle, so I can't help you out on the Revell chassis swap. There was someone on Ebay a few years ago that sold some remastered interiors for these trucks with separate seats. I picked up two of them while they were available and will use one on this build. That's it and Ron will sell the bed and hood separately. Email him for a quote and availability.
  8. Yes, you can use either the AMT 1972 Chevy truck or the AMT 1972 GMC step side truck kits for what you need. RMR makes a one piece short wide bed with minitubs and separate tailgate. I have one... They also do the cowl hood. Bandit Resins also does a multi-piece short bed. Click here for contact info for RMR. The trim on the RMR bed will match the 1968 trim if that is important.
  9. Yours is fine for solvent based paints, rattle can or airbrush. No worries.
  10. What a beautifully crafted and cast model! Risto, see if you guys can persuade Juha to master another 1973 Pontiac Grand Am and have it cast by Air-Trax. I'd buy at least two!!!
  11. Only Chrome and Polished Aluminum require the black undercoat. The others work just like Testors Metallizers. Their shades can vary with the color primer you apply them over as they tend to be somewhat opaque.
  12. As an aficionado of vintage model kits, only the level of detail, especially chassis and engine detail, is an improvement over the annuals. As a former owner of a second generation Camaro, the look and feel of the rest of the "newer" 1970.5 Camaro missed the boat. I would rather have the outside "look" right as the details are not seen once the car is on the shelf.
  13. The chassis and engine in the 1989 kit actually date back to the 1969 annual. Like Mark said, the original annuals were quite nice and would be nice to have. The 1970 annual had molded in vinyl top texture and all the 1970-73 AMT annuals were the non-Rally Sport body style with the full-width front bumper. I have a number of these in my collection and really like them. The originals were 3-n-1's with stock, custom, and drag options. I also have three or four of the 1989 issue pictures that will be used as donor kits to restore my annuals.
  14. The acrylic Aluminum paint is decent and has its place. It must be shaken and stirred well and like all acrylics must be fully cured before attempting a second coat. I use Testors Metallizer sprays, Alclad metallizers with my airbrush, and other Tamiya lacquer sprays like silver, gloss aluminum, and my favorite AS-12 bare metal silver. Applying semi flat and flat clears will give even more shades and sheens and black washing will help bring out details.
  15. Mike, The front seats were fully repaired with sheet styrene. Marc
  16. V, Thanks for the kind words. The Pactra RC paint is a lacquer that is designed to be applied to lexan RC bodies. It didn't seem too "hot" as it went over Tamiya primer with no problems. If you use this paint, I would use Pactra's black base coat and probably Testors lacquer clear or Tamiya TS-13 like I did.
  17. I can dig it!!! The only criticism I have is the wheels and tires are too "fresh" for the rusted out look of the body. But what do I know, I only do shiny paint!
  18. It is Pactra RC Colors Aqua Mist shot over their black base coat for the flip flop effect. Cleared with Tamiya TS-13 and polished.
  19. Well, I've started plugging away at the Camaro again now that the 1972 GTX is finished. Applied BMF to the front and rear window openings and painted the vent window frame with Testors Acryl Flat Black. Here's a sneek peek at the interior... I like this picture because it shows the remnants of the major glue dump in the original 1967 interior tub. It will be hidden by the flocking.
  20. Sure there is. Just like the discussion regarding the AAM 1959 Biscayne, purchase about 5 pounds of RTV silicone, a few pounds of the right type of clay, and some resin and make a mold of the body. $150 or so in raw materials and yours or someone elses time (and more $$$) and you can have all the roofs you can use.
  21. Use lacquer thinner and a rag to remove the paint. Messy but it works.
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