Marc @ MPC Motorsports

I sent you a private message, Jesse.

Do a spray test of black paints on some paper. Most blacks have a lot of brown in the pigment. Tamiya TS-14 is a "black" black with no visible signs of brown pigment. It is the best choice for black hobby paint. I know from experience that Duplicolor and most hardware store brand paints have lots of brown in the pigment.

Count me as an interested buyer! 3D printing and resin casting is opening up a whole new avenue for us model builders. Variety of sizes over and above what the current market provides is awesome too.

Spend a little more money and get a Pace Paint Booth. No worries there.

More incredible work, Tom. PLEASE have Missing Link cast this when you are finished. My parents had a 1976 LJ and a good friend had a 1976 SJ. I would welcome the opportunity to build are replica of one or both.

I would raid the HUG reissue for a many parts as possible. Model glues are really solvents, and the solvents 50 years ago were much stronger. Also, many young builders in the day had no concept of the word "sparingly". They would use at least a half of a tube or more on each model. Lucky for me, I had a 2nd Grade teacher that taught us when it comes to glue, "a little dab'll do ya". Great work so far and at least replacement parts are not made of unobtanium.

I remember seeing these in KC at the Heartland Nats a few years back. Killer builds!

Here you go. http://www.ebay.com/itm/46432-AOSHIMA-SSR-Professor-VF1-20-inches-4-Wheels-Tyres-VIP-Car-1-24-Model-/351193965146?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item51c4caa25a

They are that hard to find. They only produce limited runs of about 4 sets at a time. Usually release quarterly. Hobby Link Japan is probably the best source and you can usually pre-order new sets before the release date. Early birds get the worm here. Which particular set or sets are you looking for? My LHS has some in their inventory. I might be able to help you out.

I would get the 1970 Dart Swinger resin body from Bandit Resins and use the Revell 1968 Hemi Dart for the guts.

Mileage will vary, but there are official NHRA certified quarter mile times for the Hellcat at 11.20 with street tires, 10.80 on drag radials. I'm biased as I own a '13 Challenger, but in real world driving experience, the Challenger wins hands down. Better styling, more comfort for all passengers. Real trunk in the back to haul the groceries. Performance numbers do mean bragging rights, but none of us drive at 10/10ths of a cars performance all day long.

Nobody told me that. I have two of the vintage Modelhaus resin 1969 El Camino bodies that haven't been made since AMT came out with the new tool 1968 El Camino in the 1990's. I also had a body and a few parts from a previously built AMT 1969 El Camino annual and a body from an original AMT 1970 Chevelle SS from the "Motor City" series with a busted roof. I performed a nose transplant on the El Camino body to make a 1970 El Camino. This is all I have done for now.

Not that I am aware of. What specifically are you looking for?

As a model builder that likes to restore previously built models from the 1960's and 1970's, I have stripped more models and parts of paint than I care to admit. Super Clean and later Purple Power have been my stripper of choice for years for removing most hobby enamels. I refuse to try brake fluid. I've tried Chameleon Paint Remover when it was available. I had read rave reviews on the stuff, but it did not work for me. I use Testors Easy Lift Off for more stubborn paints but it can damage plastic if you are not careful. A model builder on Facebook directed me to try Sam's Club brand Commercial Floor Stripper. I bought a gallon of it a couple of months ago. A gallon costs about $8.00. A 24 hour soak in this stuff has removed thick, brush painted 45+ year old hobby enamels that the "purple pond" didn't touch in two weeks! I've had success stripping Testors and Tamiya hobby lacquers with the stuff as well as removing chrome plating and the undercoat from parts. All without not apparent damage to the styrene. Take the same safety precautions with this stuff as you would any other chemicals. Use in a well ventilated area. Wear chemical resistant gloves to protect your skin. My cheap Harbor Freight nitrile gloves are only good for about two uses before the stuff breaks them down, leaving you with bare skin. I have not tried any Commercial Floor Strippers from the big box stores like Lowe's or Home Depot, but I would expect similar results.

Mike, are you a Sam's Club member? If you are, go there and buy a gallon bottle of their commercial floor stripper. Costs about $8 and it will remove the "smutz" underneath the chrome plating in a day or two.

I'm watching for sure! I've yet to build one but this might provide some inspiration.

I'm not crazy about it. Like all Testors lacquer paints, the cans have too much pressure and the paint is too thick. If I decide to finish the can I purchased, I will decant the paint, thin it properly, and shoot thru my airbrush.

Nice job on that build. Can you post a photo of the box art? If you built the newest release with the red car on the box, Round 2 simplified and cheapened this kit by excluding many of the optional parts. You have to cut a hole in the hood for supercharger clearance. The older versions included a hood scoop and big tires for the rear custom rims.

Don't leave any plastic model on the dash of a real car at a show. It will melt and warp in no time. A diecast is much better for that purpose. I believe Franklin Mint made a 1969 Chevelle SS396.

Dave, This is the only game in town. It's roots go back to the AMT annual kit in 1969 along with the promo. Builds nice with a little modern detailing. I recommend going to The Modelhaus for their rear bumper and red taillight lenses. The annual/promo is the only version of this kit with separate red taillight lenses. Model Car Garage makes a photo etch detail set for the Chevelle. If you want more chassis detail, swap out the chassis from an AMT 1969 Olds 442. Marc

No difference.

I am a Controller/CFO for a regional specialty retailer.

Straight out of the AMT 1967 Impala street machine kit from the late 1990's with the yellow car box art.

It's been a few weeks since I have updated this thread. I have been working on the engine and chassis, mocking everything up to make sure everything fits like it should. This is an important step when you kitbash parts like I do. Spent the weekend painting parts and started assembly on the engine. The engine was pirated from an AMT 1967 Chevy Impala street machine kit. Minor modifications were made so it would sit properly in the Chevelle chassis. I painted the block with Testors Citrus Yellow Metallic to match the body. Heads are painted with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver. Rocker covers and intake were painted with Alclad Magnesium. The headers came from a vintage AMT 1972 Chevy Nova kit with slight modifications and were painted with Testors Stainless Steel metalizer. The transmission was painted with Tamiya AS-12 as well. The oil filter came from the Revell COPO Nova kit and was painted to match a Fram filter.

Very nice. I would like to see some photos of how you combined the R/T grille with the MPC Charger 500 part.