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Everything posted by robdebie

  1. Ha, I did nearly exactly the same! But I have plans to make a 3D CAD design of the headlights, and have them printed. And like you I closed the louvers. For the rest the model is far from being finished. I've rebuilt the floor plate, the Heller underside is fantasy. And I've widened the air tunnels leading to the radiators - you might see it in the above photo if you compare it to your model. By the way: my kit fits fine with a few tweaks here and there. Like the sawcut down the middle of the lower nose part; the sawcut alone was enough to solve the fit problem of that part. It's not Tamiya, that's for sure! Rob
  2. I don't want to spoil your party, but I don't think these castings look that good. I see a surface structure that maybe can be described as 'pebbly'. And I recognise it from my own castings: after using the mold for 20 castings, I get the same. The castings still releases fine, no problem, but all 20+ castings have a surface structure that looks a lot like what I see on the hoods, especially the left one. Since I noticed the problem, I made 'counters' on my molds, to retire them after 20 castings. Works fine. You can sand it off, yes, but that's not a nice job. I would ask the manufacturer whether the masters are the cause, or the molds. Rob
  3. Nice, yours is the first I've seen with headlights! I've added this thread as a link to my Airfix/Heller Peugeot 905 review page: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/905review.htm Rob
  4. Here's my Monogram ‘85 Elliott Coors T-Bird chassis, that I did many years ago (20+ maybe, oops..). I painted mine after total assembly, so there would not be gaps between the parts. But I remember waisting a lot paint on it while airbrushing the tubes of the rollcage. If I were to do it again, I would use a glossier paint. The rather flat color is Humbrol 128, supposedly satin. Rob
  5. You're close: it's Kurzheck (short rear) and Langheck (long rear). Maybe the designations were shortened to 'Kurz' and "Lang' but that sounds a bit un-German to my Dutch ear. Rob
  6. If you're looking for the one on the right, I have one extra. PM me if interested. Rob
  7. The earliest version of Revell paint was indeed produced by Humbrol, see the tin below. But that did not last long, I would guess from 1980 on, Revell produced the paint themselves. With Humbrol getting worse in quality every year (in my perception), I'm starting to like this Revell paint more and more. Quite a few of the range are matched to RAL colors. The pictures are from my Humbrol tin evolution webpage. Rob
  8. Yet another route: apply some Tamiya Extra Thin to the plastic card part, and let it soak in. Do not use it (yet) to glue, it's just to make the part softer and more pliable. Wait a few minutes, then curve the part. I used the same technique to wrap a piece of plastic strip around pullies. It kept breaking beforehand. Rob
  9. Can anyone identify the following two sponsor markings on Hiro Matsushita's Lola T93 at the 1993 Indy 500: 1. on the nose, the sticker directly below the number 15 2. on the rear wing post, the sticker below the STP sticker. I think it looks like a front view of an open seater, but it could also be a faucet! Thanks in advance! Rob
  10. Or a variation on this theme: use Albion brass micro tubing and roll it to a semi-flat shape, using two supports of the right thickness. Roll it on both side to take out a curve. Albion even sells a special tool for this, that you can install in a vice. Rob
  11. I've been slooooowly building mine too, and reported all problems that I found here: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/lc2.htm Here's an overview of what I did on the body so far: Rob
  12. Another vote for working in layers! Sometimes it helps to 'lock' the layer with the bitmap, since without locking, the 'pen' of your own artwork layer wants to follow the bitmap that you want to copy. I never understood that behaviour though. And another CorelDraw tip: try different view settings under the 'View' menu. Sometimes the 'Wireframe' setting makes for far easier drawing on top of a bitmap. It makes your artwork lines clearer, and softens the bitmap that you're copying. One last tip: for everything that I draw as decals, I set the line thickness to zero. Just use the 'fill color' to create the letters. Otherwise your artwork will look just a little 'fatter' than the original. And if you scale artwork, the line thickness (if not zero) will often not scale accordingly, leading to other surprises. In short, always set the line thickness to zero, for everything you draw. Rob
  13. I've been using CorelDraw for some 25 years now, and my methods are 100% identical to Peteski's. This is the way to do it. One thing that I haven't read explicitly in this thread: the signs that you want to duplicate are all handpainted. So you will not find a font that matches them 100%. But by changing the fonts to curves, and the manipulating the control points, you can make them look like the handpainted lettering. Here's one example that I made long time ago. It's a data block as painted on a 1939 Fokker G1 fighter. I started with 'VAG Rounded' and modified nearly each letter to make it look like it was brushpainted. I rotated many letters a bit to add some randomness. Still it might look a bit too perfect. CorelDraw isn't easy to start with, but you need to learn only a few things to do your decals. The program can do 100x more, but you don't have to learn all that. Have fun! Rob
  14. Seeing how far off these models are, I would guess they were mastered in the Far East, where no-one knew these cars for real. We're now seeing the same thing with many Trumpeter models (aircraft mainly) that have lots of shape problems. Rob
  15. I tried a different approach. I made a line drawing over a nice straight-from-the-side photo. I put it over the only K3 drawing I know, from an old Scale Models International issue. The fit is mediocre, and especially the 'greenhouses' are rather different. Sigh. Then a smart person pointed out that the drawings for the painting instructructions of the kit were probably derived from the 3D CAD model. So I overlayed my line drawing on that. The wheel positions and wheel openings are quite wrong, the skirt too tall, the front headlights too large, but the rest isn't bad. Especially the greenhouse matches pretty well. Amazing!! It's slowly becoming a case of 'man with two watches never knows the time' Ron, I still have to measure the windows on my kits, hopefully later today! Rob
  16. Yes, sure, I already felt unconfortable doing a sort-of-review in this section. Rob
  17. Gary, another thanks for the straight side photo. I made a drawing of it in CorelDraw, and maybe it will be of use for the kit review. It's not quite finished yet though. I overlayed it on the side view of the Nunu/Platz 935K3 model that I posted earlier, but it's no use, that photo has lots of perspective. Rob
  18. Ron, thanks again for your photos! The door problem looks bad.. worse than I thought.. I had spotted it too, but did not try to correct in my 'modified' side view. It (sort of) confirms the feeling that they've been messing with the center section of the car to make the front and rear match in height. I've thought of another way to answer the question of the greenhouse height. If you have calipers, and if you don't mind, could you measure the following dimensions. I will do the same on my Esci 934, Tamiya 934, Tamiya 935-76 and Tamiya 935-78 kits. To my uncalibrated eye, these last four have a similar greenhouse, that looks good to my eye (911-ish) , but maybe the numbers will tell a different story. Rob
  19. Ron, many thanks for your kit photos! The greenhouses look reasonable in these views. To be sure, we need telelens photos straight from the side. I've made those kind of photos but it isn't easy. I see something new in your photos: the running board of the K3 is much wider than that of the K2. I will have to start searching for K3 width and track numbers. You're absolutely right that 935 are notoriously difficult because the teams did so many modifications. However the #41 Le Mans winner was the third-built K3, fresh from Kremer in its first race. Also, Kremer built their K3s from factory-supplied bare chassis, and did not lower them, like for example the 935-78. Therefore the greenhouse should be close to the street version. That's my main reference point, together with the wheelbase figure. I'll probably buy the kit too and try to analyze it some more. Rob
  20. Gary, many thanks for your search! I tried to overlay it on the 'modified' image that I posted earlier, but it doesn't work . The kit was photographed with much more perspective, i.e. from a smaller (relative) distance. You can see it most clearly on the wing, the shift of the two endplates. Rob
  21. Ron, I am also eagerly awaiting this kit! However, someone pointed out that the model looked awkward. I looked into it, and came up with the following quick & dirty shape analysis. I *really* hope that the photo is of a prototype model, not the production kit. Can you compare your model to the photos below and comment? Thanks in advance! Rob
  22. Leslie, thanks for the information. I think I found the set at the manufacturer's website: https://www.scaleproduction.de/product_info.php?info=p2259_17--ronal-racing-dtm.html I did not know that they produced such a wide range of wheels, interesting! Rob
  23. Can you tell us more about these wheels, like the brand and catalog number? The reason I'm asking is because I've been chasing after Ronal wheels for years, and maybe these are the answer? Thanks in advance! Rob
  24. Here are my experiences: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/ultrasonic.htm Rob
  25. I've done similar repairs - it's not too difficult. Pre-bend the plastic card if necessary, and finish with a bit of filler. The photos below will give you an idea, even if they're 20+ years old. Rob
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