Chariots of Fire

I've had them break even in a mill with too much pressure on a small size bit. Nevertheless working with them in a mill, drill press or in a pin vise is possible if one is careful. I don't know what I would do without them. I work with #71 size all the time as it is about the same size as a common pin or #24 gauge wire.

I think he has seriously gone mad!! Those details are not of this world!😵

Try Drill Bits Unlimited on line. All kinds available at reasonable prices.

Hi, Bill. What is your opinion of the quality of printing on the finished body? How close to some of the better plastic kits is it? Just curious with more and more 3D printing coming into the modeling world.

Pete is right. They will snap in a pin vise if any kind of sideways pressure is put in them. This is especially true if the hole you are drilling is in thick material. That having been said, I don't know what I would do without them and I use them in a pin vise all the time. Best thing since sliced bread in my opinion.

Great job on construction, neat and clean. The color combination is just right! Well Done!!👍

Try some fusion beads. I use the #15 size for all sorts of things. They are ceramic, hexagonal in shape and are about 1mm in height.

Not exactly the same but I used that same cab to build this dualie a few years ago. Made it an extended cab version as well.

That's pretty close, Scott. Nice job.

Best small drill bits I have encountered is from Drill Bits Unlimited. The ones I get are 1/8" shank but are anywhere from #80 to #60 in size. #71 is about common pin size and is great for drilling holes for securing small parts. These drills are super sharp but are quite brittle if not used carefully. Still, I recommend them highly. I use them in a pin vise as well as a small drill press.

Think I'll stick to a smooth finish!😆

Sharpies are best that have the chisel points rather than a sharp point. Much more control over where the ink goes and they give a nice smooth edge.

I agree with Petski. Foil it before painting and then gently rub the paint off the foil. You'll get a nice bright image. Here is an example of doing that on a 1937 Seagrave from 20 years ago. The bottom flutes under the grill were covered with foil first and then the surfaces were cleaned of the paint. Here's another image of the script on the front of an L-700. And the "700" to the right of the door was done the same way.

Looks like you have done some serious brass work as it is! Nicely done!

I've done the hidden door hinge thing on several projects. Here is one solution. I used three different sections of brass on these hinges. Flat strip stock, and tubing of two sizes. I cut the large tubing in half making two half circles as shown in the photo. I soldered one end onto the flat stock. On the other end I soldered a piece of small tubing like the piece above the top hinge in the photo. Into the body of the truck (in this case) I inserted two pieces of small tubing like the small ones on the end of the half circles. You can see the end of one just below the windshield of the truck. On the bottom of the fender there is a similar piece of tubing embedded. At right in the photo is the door with the flat strip stock embedded between the outside of the door and inside the door panel. When put in place a piece of stiff wire the size of the interior diameter of the small tubing is inserted. This allows the door to swing with no exterior exposure of the hinge. Just before painting, I plugged the top hole in the body so it would not show later. A look at the bottom section of tubing in the fender. This could be done on a car model as well. It just needs a positive location both top and bottom. The door is closed and the pin has been inserted into the tubing. Still work to do on closing up the door opening and the pin will need to be cut. The door in the open position. No hinges show except on the inside of the door opening, as they would on a real vehicle. The hinges are curve with the half circles because the hinge needs to clear the edge of the door opening without binding. Without it the door would not open. In the photo above, the four gray dots in the door are where the door was drilled open to secure the flat portions of each hinge. And at this stage the pin can be pulled out of the tubing from the bottom for additional work on the door. Here is the door jam showing the two openings in the cowl where the hinges are inserted. The doors are tapered only to serve the purpose of closing up each one. The difference is not noticeable once the doors are in place.

Looks like it came from the Italeri Fire Tanker.

From the thickness of the casting it looks like a re-pop but the outside details are definitely from the Monogram Mack kit. It must have been used as the master.

Unique use for the 1/32 Monogram Mack lower pumper body! 👍

Will you keep the two small cab windows in the back or fill them in??

That's cool! Nice everyday truck. Think I have one back in the stash.

That last adjustment did the trick. Now the cab and bed line up where they should. Good show!

Thank! It could be worked on for sure!

Mario: What scale, Please!🙂

Nice job on the engine! You might want to consider a heavier frame under the Chevy given the load it will be required to carry. Perhaps make it straight toward the back since you have to extend it anyway. Just a thought.🙂

Necessity breeds function sometimes. It all started in the northeast following an international financier's trip to the UK and seeing large diameter hose in use for the first time. He brought the idea to the US and applied it to his own use. He built his own fire department as a mutual aid department and training center to small towns that needed help. So the idea of large diameter hose and a means to lay an above ground water supply took shape. His name was Donald Holbrook and he wrote a book called "The Unlikely Firemaster". This was back in the early 1960's and before the time of what we now know as EMS.