[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

Codi

Members
  • Content count

    1,782
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Codi

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Harrisburg
  • Full Name
    Tim Hoagland
  1. test fitting the inner fenders again to get them permanently affixed to the chassis. more massaging but I think they're about ready now. I slipped the firewall in as well. the gap between the mag & firewall is less than 1/16"". cat whisker close. cheers sorry about the lighting too.........the pics don't "pop" the way I would want but you get the idea I think. "
  2. Thank you Daniel for the compliment. Dave, you would think just sticking one end of a wire in the valve cover and another in the mag would be zippity-do-da right? Detailing the entire mag including the wires was between 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Granted I lost 1/2 hour getting the kill wire back on it as it had come off and needed re-attaching. You put your plug wires on your 37' Chevy in 30 minutes by comparison I'm sure. Cheers!
  3. Much appreciated as always fellas! I did want to answer Daniel's question...........yup, scratch-built. I machined it out of aluminum. A pic before it was painted and detailed. Cheers, tim
  4. small update. Mag & plug wires installed. Have to add the kill wire to the mag yet but the throttle cable's installed as well. ProTech plug wires, Model Car Garage looms and RB plug boots and the firing is order is correct. Next couple items on the list should really make the car pop. cheers, tim
  5. Money To Burn Twin Turbo Pro Mod

    Been a little while since I peeked in here, like the updated pics on your build Wayne. Those decals must have been a bear to put on. Nicely done sir. cheers, tim
  6. Most beautiful planes of all time...

    So many fantastic posts here. Even though on the wrong side of the war, this one caught my attention when I visited the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum next to the Dulles airport in D.C. The Horton 229 was an experimental craft and I think only 3 examples were built near the end of the war. We captured them and brought them back to the U.S. This example is actually at the museum awaiting restoration. Pics of it flying are very rare. I consider it the true ancestor to today's stealth aircraft. Considering it was build in 1944 /45, it's amazing the cutting edge engineering. Jack Northrop saw the potential and exploited it with our own new designs. Here's a pic with its wings removed and it's interesting to see how small it was with the men standing next to it. cheers, tim a pic of it with the wings on...this was a 1:1 mock up that the U.S. made to test the radar cross section of the craft. It was deemed very effective in comparison to most other craft flying at the time. last pic of the one at the Smithsonian.
  7. Summer vacation is officially over for you young man. Time to get back on this one! cheers, tim
  8. Agree wholeheartedly with Ray and it's a nice surprise to see you post here once more. Looking forward to your progress Romell! cheer, tim
  9. Thanks for the reply Doug. KJ, I believe it was their "smooth" finish which is also their best/most expensive option currently available on this part. cheers, tim
  10. So you can print the ape block for me with no lines but I have to pay you to draw your own files up to make the part I want. Did I understand that correctly? If so isn’t that going to be more costly for me?
  11. Now you've got my interest Doug. Checked out your facebook page. Can you print the AJPE engine that I included in this thread? I don't have the CAD? files to do so. Someone else designed it and offer their products on Shapeway's. What material should a newb spec out to get "lineless" prints and is it reasonably priced compared to other materials? Thanks in advance for any insights you might share. Tim
  12. Thanks for sharing those links Pete. Bill, the bad news is this is really only good for small parts as a technique in my opinion. It only comes out in a small stream/area and I know you could use larger media material but to do an entire body this way would take forever and use a lot of the material at the same time. Plus I'm not sure what the larger material might do to the body itself. I'm afraid that for bodies we're stuck with sanding. I've got the same issue you have and I wholeheartedly agree that you'd have to be a masochist to enjoy the sanding etc. If my pro mod mustang body that I started prepping was any indication, I'd say you should be able to get a 1/25th scale body in very good shape for paint in 8 to 10 hours of sanding & priming. I hope! For those interested, I bought the media blast air brush kit and material at TCP Global for about $50. cheers, tim
  13. I did a test on a 1/25th scale AJPE engine block from Shapeways. The print lines on the side of the block where the "ribs" are were pretty bad. You can't sand that area of course so I took my media blast kit from TCP Global and the Paasche Eraser Compound (very fine btw) and shot it at 45 PSI. It did an awesome job of eliminating the lines while not messing with the rest of the material. You'll see some lines on the oil pan but I only passed over that area twice very quickly. Shot at a distance of 1/4". I think this is very workable for small parts but for larger items, bodies for instance, not a great idea. Cheers, Tim
  14. Whop Whop Whop..........what a view it is Dave. No wonder you've been spending some much time on it. See you later this summer! tim
  15. Shelby Cobra drag car

    Nicely done Ray. Did the decals come with the kit btw? Cheers, Tim