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Codi

Members
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    1,603
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About Codi

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Harrisburg
  • Full Name
    Tim Hoagland
  1. Art, thank you sir. I've learned so much from others here at the forum and been inspired by their work and learned from their sharing of techniques & methods. Great hobby we have huh? (rhetorical) cheers jc, appreciate the comment but I wouldn't go quite that far. I'll show the car a couple times and then I'm going to donate / give it away. Keep up the good work yourself, I took a peek at your recent rig and car you posted..........that's some nice work in it's own right! Mike, you've been a consistent follower/commentator on the thread and always in a very positive way. Thanks as it provides a bit of encouragement at times when I hit a "slow" patch. As an aside, I've put almost 20 hours into throttle linkage etc. on the Crower 8 port, should have it wrapped up by next weekend. Gotta say, it looks pretty cool on the bench right now and I can't wait to get it done. The manifold lines are going to be a bit trickier. Cheers to all!! Tim
  2. Mongoose and transporter

    jc, that is VERY cool. I was thinking of doing a transporter but it wasn't nearly as ambitious as yours. The entire rig AND car look great together. I've gotta re-consider a transporter someday if I could make it that sweet. hmmmmmm.........a build to be proud of. cheers, tim
  3. 69 Camaro outlaw....

    Like everyone else here, I miss Tyrone's regular posts and build threads. Always did some truly nice work! If you're reading this Tyrone, come on back !!! Cheers, Tim
  4. Ferrari P4

    FANTASTIC Bruce..........I just love those shots of the car outdoors. The beauty of all your detailing and of course paint, are presented in all their glory. Wish that one was mine!! Cheers, Tim
  5. Board Status

    Good to hear your surgery was successful and you're feeling better Dave. I can only echo what others have stated and thank you as well for all of your efforts. Everything you describe is very time consuming and takes true dedication to keep after it. Cheers, Tim
  6. Hi Art, I just wasn't happy with the finish. The humidity gave it an eggshell finish one time, then it "blushed" (the finish was flat even with the semi-gloss clear on it) so that didn't suit either. The steps I got good results with were actually pretty straightforward. After removing the old paint with lacquer thinner, I used my dremel and steel wool pads to get in the crevices etc. to get an as "new" ready to paint surface. Washed it thoroughly with dawn and blew it dry with my airbrush. Sprayed the etching primer as they instructed, multiple light coats with 10 minutes between each. Waited 45 minutes and sprayed the black in multiple light coats as well (3 coats primer and 3 of color) also 10 minutes between coats. Waited an hour and then sprayed it with 2 light coats/passes of the tamiya semi-gloss. It gave me the proper gloss finish I was seeking over the flat black color. Waited 10 minutes between each clear coat. That was it. All out of the cans. One of other issues I wanted to share was on my first attempt, the finish pealed off (again, the humidity, was about 65%) whereas now it's ON.....and I can describe it as actually hard. The self etching primer was key in that regard as it made the difference in how it stuck to the brass. My first attempt the primer was tamiyas standard fine white for plastic and metal. That didn't work. For ME, the keys were reasonable temp, low humidity and multiple light coats.........no medium or "wet" coats applied. The finish is thin as lacquer is, but again, tough. If you have any plastic bits on your brass chassis, I would practice on something first to ensure the self etching primer doesn't do bad things to those bits and pieces. Mine, being all brass, that was not an issue. Hope this helps in some way. Cheers, Tim
  7. Hi John, the dehydrator is something I've used for several years now. I bought 2 so that I could make mine taller for the types of things I paint. Just had to do a bit of crude hacking to remove the shelves inside and sealed the 2 halves together with sticky plumbers silver tape. So far as using it, I never set it above 95 degrees........I prefer to let it cure the paint for 2 to 8 hours depending on what type of paint I'm using. Then let it cure another day or so in the cabinet before handling. Again, dependent upon the type of paint. Interestingly I contacted Alclad with some questions and he cautioned me NOT to use the dehydrator when spraying their enamels. The formula they use and dehydrators don't place nice together. I suppose it has something to do with the speed that the enamel is curing and what their formula is. Just thought I'd share. Lacquers dry quickly as you know anyhow so an hour in the dehydrator is just "insurance" before handling. There is a great link on the forum with all kinds of great info and experiences that others have shared that you'll find helpful too. Pete, nice to hear from you as always.Thanks too! Dave, I can only surmise that the humidity is a very key factor when spraying their lacquers. They even say on the cans that it shouldn't exceed 65% but at anything in the low 40's you should get great results about every time. I was also surprised at how well it went down right from the rattle can. Since you live nearby you know the horrible paint weather we've endured since Spring. I'm just glad it's done and turned out smooth & at how hard the finish is as well. That's a real plus. Gilles, thank you sir as well. It's always nice to see others from around the world visiting the forum to share their work or to post comments. I really look forward to seeing pics from model shows in Europe and Asia whenever they get posted just to see what others are interested in building and the quality of their work. btw, started on the hardline's as noted and spent 5 hours alone just to get em' going. this is going to take a while. Cheers!
  8. Thank you! Dave, the tire lettering are decals. I followed some tips that Clay K. shared and was happy with the results. Cheers!
  9. Model factory hiro

    Bruce, just wow. You've really got me wondering what madness I'm doing in 1/25th. My old eyes are making it harder and these 1/12th cars seem like such fun. Beautiful car by any measure. You've gotta be one proud papa having that one on your shelf. Congratulations.
  10. 1/12 Tamiya 312T

    You guys in Big Boyz are just on a roll. Great job Nicholas. I'm envious. cheers, tim
  11. 1:12 Tamiya WR1

    UGH! I feel for ya' on that one man. I too would just walk away while I ponder what to do next. Your commitment to the car and what you want from it are to be commended. I know you'll get it the way you want ultimately. Keep at it man! I'll be sure to follow along. Tim
  12. That is so slick. Nicely done sir.
  13. now THAT is way too cool. Love the pics of the 2 cars in the same shot. Natural light shows EVERYTHING...........looks even more fantastic if that was even possible. Kudos guys!
  14. Thank you one and all as that part was just kicking my butt. I peeled off tape etc. from the chassis and took a couple pics with some shiny bits on it just to get some satisfaction from all the grief it put me through. Should be really sharp once all assembled. I'm going to tackle all the crower and manifold hard lines next so I can then begin final detailing & assembly. Cheers!
  15. Finally. After stripping the chassis 3 times I got it done. Paint is duplicolor etching primer, duplicolor universal matt black and tamiya ts79 semi-gloss clear. Stuff is tough too. I attempted several times to apply this by decanting it and using my air brush. Bad results but I think it was down to the humidity. Last attempt I sprayed it straight from the rattle cans, 70 degree temp and 39% humidity. The humidity seems to be the critical number. I won't bother spraying it again unless the heats at 70 or more and the humidity is 50% or less. cheers, tim This pic is the most accurate for the true color btw.