Appreciate the sentiments John & Dan. Paul, I actually did what you're describing on the sample one too, I know it will work that way but I wasn't particularly worried about those uneven cuts for that reason. Thanks for burning the neurons trying to help me out!! Still waiting on some end mills to start the blower so I'm looking ahead at engine assembly in the not too distant future. I've to be able to align the pulleys, blower manifold etc. properly so I came up with a simple design for the actual assembly of it all. I wanted to be able to get the crank pulley past the edge of the stand as it will hang lower than that. Machined a groove for the crank girdle to rest in and can easily slip the crank "pin" that secures the engine with a knurled brass screw. I'll bolt the whole thing to my chassis jig with 2 screws when it's time to assemble. cheers
Clay, I'm happy to be the first to post on this thread...........we're ALL in for a real treat on this one and I'm glad to see you decided to come back and share it with us. Your builds have always inspired me and I look forward to more. Cheers, Tim
Bob, I think when I get it done it should have somewhere close to 60 or bits & pieces, still nothing like Randy D's weber though. Dave, I don't know if your head would hurt from making this but I know your eyes would make things a bit out of focus for a while after you're done. Thanks too! Paul, my being "sloppy" on the practice piece. I know what you're speaking of though and it's appreciated. I have to machine a small .5mm tall area on top of the blower for the Crower which you don't see. I know when I sit down to machine this it is going to be a mental exercise. I'm figuring on a 5 to 6 hour operation so hopefully it will turn out. cheers everyone!!!
Art, my sincerest thank you for the VERY kind comments. I just checked out your brass midget and can't wait to see your progress. While I wait for some end mills to arrive to do the blower, I got it drawn up and wanted to clean up some odds and ends. The butterflies were on the list so I machined them and did a mock-up but I've not permanently affixed them yet. cheers, tim
Paul, don't know what to say having had a bad experience like yours a year or so ago. I feel for you. Chris is right though, go brass young man. I'll be sure to follow along when this gets resurrected. cheers, tim
Hi Paul, glad to see you working on this one too. I always loved this particular car and you had my attention when you broke out the Ti stock to machine it for the half shafts. What changed your mind? I have some too but after reading what a pain it is to machine and how the swarf can possibly spontaneously combust, I thought better of it and never tried. I'll be like many others and will most assuredly follow along. cheers, tim
Thanks Chris, that was / is my plan "b". I took some Renshape that I had laying around that was close to what I needed. I have corner radius cutters and the right one to do the blower, thanks for the offer though. What I wanted to confirm was how to go about cutting in the ribs with a given radius while maintaining a consistent depth in the radius and down the sides. I didn't use a corner radius on this test just to save some time. The time spent figuring it out was worthwhile & with Renshape I could work quickly as compared to cutting metal with the tiny end mills this will require. The ribs you see in the pic were somewhat square when I took it off the mill and i rounded the edges with a sanding stick ever so slightly which is why it doesn't show the "crispness" it had when I pulled it off the mill. This is a path worth pursuing but I've got to draw it up properly 1st and order an end mill that I don't have at present. cheers, tim
Pete, yup, thought I had it figured out but in re-thinking it, I don't. I'm going to try another path that might be much closer. Just some more time in the "lab" is all. Paul, I've been running that through my mind too exactly the way you're describing it. I know I could do it that way but it would be quite a bit of effort. I'll call that one plan "c". Thank you Mike, I'm pleased so far with how it looks, should be really cool when I get the butterflies made and installed along with the other fuel lines/nozzles.
Thank you guys. I think that the time it took me to do the fuel blocks I can get the blower made, or at least get close. I spent time experimenting on how to make one today and I'm going for a 9 rib design as I always liked them from that time period. Cut some ribs in and tried a quick way of doing the blower. Epic fail. You can see in pic 2 that the profile is all wrong. I've got a way to fix that and the tools to do it I believe. I'll do the butterflies next to finish up the Crower and then jump on this. Pete, I'll document with pics what I'm going to do as I go along. Cheers fellas! Tim
Fuel distribution blocks are done. The brass one on the Crower has 13 holes drilled which caused me fits, it took me 2 1/2 days to make these two blocks after trying several ways of doiing them. The fittings are from RB Motion and are not permanently secured yet. The brass block is 3.4mm in length and 2.0mm wide. The manifold fuel distribution blcok is the out of focus aluminum piece in the pic. Next on the list is an attempt to machine a blower out of aluminum. Cheers, Tim
I've seen the fuel block mounted either front or the rear of the blower. In this pic it's in the rear but my plan is to swap it around to the front...........maybe.
As Rocket in the original Guardians of the Galaxy movie said oh so eloquently............."OH YEAH"....................................amazing what you did especially when I step back and look at all the phenomenal scratch-building you did Randy on this car. Anything you can't do? Still your number 1 fan. Cheers, tim
You just went from being a high jumper Chris to a pole vaulter you've set it so high for the rest of us. You've really given me some inspiration and goals to shoot for. Great balance and realistic look to the entire car, but again, your engine turned out just stellar. cheers, tim
Hi Brad, I wanted to answer your questions as best I can. The practice piece was one where I didn't spend much time cleaning it up. The reason for the experiment was due to the fact the injector tubes & plate are something unique that I've not plated before. Round tubes / bars and flat surfaces at different times, but not something made and soldered up like this. Caswell gives fair warning that prior to plating, you'd best have it as good as you can make it. Smooth as can be, SHINY and of course, super clean. I didn't bother to smooth it out to a near perfect finish. I wanted to see how evenly the plating would take as the alligator clip was affixed in one location, so I wasn't sure how well the electrical current would flow and and through the piece and tubes in particular. What is most noticeable about the piece when actually viewing it is the difference in the plating over the areas of silver solder that I didn't remove. I like how the piece turned out and I think another half hour or so of cleaning up on the final piece will serve me well When compared to the brass one in the pic though, I almost wish the real ones had been made of brass. It looks pretty cool if I may say so myself. Hope this helped. The 1 thing I did discover that I was doing wrong on occasion was cleaning the piece before plating with either alcohol or acetone with a quick soap bath prior to plating. The booklet says not to use either and recommended Soft Scrub for final cleaning which I did this time. Cheers