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RickRollerLT1

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Everything posted by RickRollerLT1

  1. The only paints that don't require a primer coat are the Testors Enamels. Those are formulated with "soft" solvents, but come at the cost of frequent errors and long dry times. Testors QC these days makes them even worse then I was using them back in 2007-8. The standard Rustoluem lines (Protects Against Rust, Metallics, Specialty/Color Shift) are also pure Enamel, but have hotter solvents that will attack most bare unprimed styrene. I know this because I once bought a cheap Revell '02 Camaro SS and some bobo painted the body Rustoluem Yellow without a primer base and a very rough finish. After the Purple bath took it off with ease, it was discovered the body crazed like mad and lots of sanding needed to smooth it out best as possible. The Testors One-Coat Lacquers were once the same hotter solvent Enamel formula as the standard Rustoluems, then recently changed to a Lacquer-Enamel mix that seems softer than the Rustoluem formula. As mentioned, the Rustoleum Painters Touch are paint+primer built-in and will react over primered parts, even if the primer base was a lacquer like Duplicolor. These paints have hot solvents meant for heavy duty applications over stuff like PVC, and the gloss colors will attack unprimed weak styrene which makes using them for bodies impossible. Apparently, the same thing happens if one sprays a Painters Touch 2x gloss/satin color over a Painters Touch Grey/White/Ect. Primer base. So even using the same brand and formula doesn't always work due to a bad design. However, the Painters Touch satin/flat colors are usable on styrene parts not meant to be glossy and work really well. I use these on interiors and frame/exhausts/motor pieces all the time and in most cases the crazing is non-existent or very minimal.
  2. This was on a Round 2 issue Knight Rider hood. As I said, the surface was not only extremely rough but crazing clearly happened. Even with respraying and sanding it was still there with the wrinkling and all. The can I bought in November 2021 at the LHS and was new sealed. I have 15 year old cans of various brands and those work fine to this day. I've heard people using the TS grey and white fine primers in the past and and getting phenomenal results. Ether I had a batch that was made under "COVID regulations", the versions sold here had the formula silently changed to "comply with Callifailna ARB emissions", or the hood was a really lousy mold and anything reacts to it. Reguardless, was very disappointed since that was a premium product costing 16.99 USD! With my spraying setup I always with do mist sprays at a distance for the color/paint to "bite in" and self level. After about 1 min I do a heavier coat to ensure basic coverage in all gaps/creases, then after 2 mins I hit it off with one heavy wet coat. I get excellent results this way and even with the cheaper paints they stay super smooth even dried. I do all my coats in one go and don't sand in-between. From my past experiences, sanding in-between coats regardless of using the same brand, how long it dried, caused major headaches and throwing fits. Sometimes there will be rough/flatter surfaces and those get taken care of with toothpaste and Pledge.
  3. That is true, but if one experiments with a method like I have, it can be done safely. I have tried using the same brands paint method before and they ether were very rough or crazed like mad and that was with sanding in-between and all that! The reason why there's stories of paint job mixing "going south" is because ppl ether tend to use pure super hot lacquers or auto grade stuff directly on styrene without primer, or they mix and match softer stuff like Testors/hobby grade paints as base coats/primers and lastly hit it with heavier lacquer/acyclic stuff which spells big trouble. Rustoluem paints and primers are 100% Enamel, but if the primer is Rustoluem and you put say Krylon or Duplicolor on top of it you will get problems. The Enamel-Lacquers for primers I use take any top coats well enough and certain ones I found don't react to the plastic (and that depends on the molding and how opaque it is in itself). I found an unused can of Tamiya Grey primer and tried it on an experiment hood. Had an extremely rough finish and it also attacked some parts of the hood. After a week of it curing I had sanded it and sprayed another round, it wrinkled and cracked like mad! This one I get at True Value is def Enamel-Lacquer, though it doesn't exactly say it. Works well, goes on smooth, no crazing on most plastics, almost no sanding required. Better than the Rustoluem and Krylon primers which were junk, and a Duplicolor primer which badly reacted with the styrene. I use other store brand Flat and Gloss colors for the base coats, most of them work well with no reactions. This line for example Then I hit the final color coat choice with an arrangement of Rustoluem, Testors One-Coat (which is also Enamel-Lacquer), Tamiya, and occasionally Krylon. Some Krylons are Enamel-Lacquers, others are pure Acrylic. The Krylon Acrylics can occasionally cause cracking/wrinkling if the Enamel-Lacquer base coats aren't dry enough. Tamiya is supposedly Acrylic-Lacquer, but I've used it over Rustoluem base coats all the time and very rarely had issues, unless I rushed it and never let the bases thoroughly dry enough. As mentioned, the Rustoleum Painter's Touch and 2x Ultra Cover cans have primer built-in and can wreck havoc with the base primer coats even if they're Duplicolor or Tamiya. This makes using the 2x gloss colors nearly impossible as depending on the thickness of plastic, the solvents from the combined formula will wreck havoc and sometimes even dissolve the weakest spots of the styrene! Best to use those flat/satin colors on interiors and non-glossy parts as they work really well and most of the time the crazing is non-existent or minimal. Keep in mind I do all my coats at one go with 10-15 min intervals between painting other parts. I don't wait long days and sand in-between as 13-yr old me used to do that when using Testors rattle cans exclusively and had countless issues. I only pre-sand bodies and parts meant to be glossy, and there's rarely any pre-washing done (unless there's thick grease coatings as on some recent kits). I also use Pledge/Future/whatever it's called as I had bad experiences with rattle can clears. In the event something goes wrong for me, the Purple Pond works wonders taking the Enamel-Lacquers and Tamiya top coats off. Sometimes I use 91% rubbing Alcohol and 8% Testors Paint Thinner to get paints that the PP won't budge or tight spots it can't take odd. I litterally just finished painting two AMT Piranhas. The Spy Car version using CD Grey primer, Rustoluem Flat and Gloss White base coats, then Rustoluem Orange, followed by a mist coat of Tamiya Pearl Yellow over the Orange to create a Pearl Tangerine. The Drag Car used CD Grey primer, Quick Color Flat Black base, Rustoluem Metallic Gold base coat, followed by Tamiya Candy Lime Green over it. Both look Immaculate and super smooth with no crazing/OP/wrinkling. Call me strange, but this what I find works and get nearly flawless results each time.
  4. In fact, heres my most recent finished build, using True Value brand Grey primer underneath, Home Depot brand Flat and Gloss Black, followed by a coat of Rustoleum Color Shift Pink Champagne cleared with Pledge. The interior used Rustoluem Painters Touch Flat Pimento Red over the bare plastic. Using budget rattle cans and mixing brands underneath can be done, as long as the primer coat is good enough and doesn't craze the plastic. Thats what matters in the end. BTW, Rustoluem's clears are all abysmal too! Fogging, running, bubbling, you name it!
  5. Funny enough, I've had mostly good results with Rustoluem. I have had bad batches in the past, but those were ether really old cans never used until then or came from places like Home Depot and K-Marts. Depending on temperatures, one needs to let the cans heat up in near-boiling water in a bucket for about 15 mins and shake each can for about 20-50 secs. One needs to be very careful with versions out there, there as they're not the same formulas. The cans with "universal" "metallic" "color shift" and standard "stops rust" formulas I use all the time. They work very well with the True Value grey primer and cheap Home Depot sprays underneath, and Tamiya pearls go over them real nicely. They have "very hot" solvents and will craze direct unprimed plastic without a good primer. Rustoluem's primers OTOH, are all horrendous! They ripple, crack, bubble like mad as well as craze styrene! I once stripped a body that someone else painted with a Rustoluem white primer coat. I thought the stuff was super tough and the Purple Pond wasn't taking it off, until I realized I the pond was lighter in color and I was hitting the bare plastic that took a real beating from the hot Rustoluem primer. The Rustoleum Painter's Touch and 2x Ultra Cover cans are usable, but DO NOT PUT THEM OVER ANY PRIMER COAT as they'll attack the solvents and ripple/crack the surface. This makes using the gloss colors nearly impossible as depending on the thickness of plastic, the solvents from the combined formula will wreck havoc and sometimes even dissolve the weakest spots of the styrene! Best to use the PC/2x flat/satin colors on interiors and non-glossy parts as those work really well and most of the time the crazing is non-existent or minimal.
  6. Fresh off da' bench! Built from the 1997 street machine issue of the AMT kit. Unlike the Yellow one built in August, this one was complete and built mostly OOB. Wheels/tires/brakes are the custom pieces from a Revell '65 Chevy C-10 Exterior is Rustoleum Color Shift Pink Champagne, cleared with Pledge.
  7. My fellow moderators, can this be moved to the Under Glass section pretty please? Was placed here by mistake tnx.
  8. My fellow moderators, can this be moved to the Under Glass section pretty please? Was placed here by mistake tnx.
  9. Fresh off the bench! From the recent Revell 85-4520 issue of the ex-Monogram tool. Flipnose assembly is very tough, needs to be pre-assembled before painting and chrome scraped off where latches go. Mine was a bit warped and got it to lay down the best I could. Front leaf spring junk was swapped out with a C-5 front suspension and rear suspension was lowered. Things like brakes and additional shocks came from the spares bin of old project parts. Changes under the nose are things like new intake and electronic fan. Stock 454 headers and new side exhaust was made to replace the clunky side exhaust setup (which hit with the new lowered setup). Centerlines were junk, so new shoes were used from a Revell MCM '67 Chevelle and rear tires from the Monogram '55 Ford Pick-up. Stripe graphics were leftover decals from an MPC Toyota Supra and the Hot Wheels logos from the AMT Hot Wheels issue '32 Phantom Vicky. Exterior is TS-51 Racing Blue cleared with Pledge.
  10. Wheels on the Green one are from the AMT Bomex/F&F '95 Supra. Wheels on the Orange one are the BBS style wheels from the Revell Subrau WRX.
  11. Yet anudda one of deze fresh off the workbench! From the recent Round 2 reissue! Used the widebody option with leftover parts coming from the recent Round 2 reissue of the Bomex/F&F Supra. Exterior is TS-52 Candy Lime Green with two coats of TS-65 Pearl Clear (to give it an enhanced luster in certain angles of light), cleared with Pledge. With LSA swapped sibling: More on the Orange one here:
  12. Fresh off 'da bench! Built from this kit ] Obviously the custom option got my attention. Nicely detailed kit and went together OK for the most part. Front bumper and grille+hood trim piece assemblies were very fiddly, and mine being slightly warped didn't help matters much. Metal pins for the custom brakes/suspension were hitting the custom wheels making them impossible to say put, so they were left out and directly glued to the plastic backers going in the brakes. Aside from a '59 Corvette steering wheel (the stock unit broke on the tree) and flame decals from the '66 Malibu, this one's pretty much OOB with it's custom option. Exterior is Tamiya TS-92 Metallic Orange cleared with Pledge.
  13. Fresh off 'da bench! Polar Lights Snap '65 Dodge Coronet Max Wedge built from the best surviving parts from several built ups. KB Toys had dozens of these dirt cheap back in the day and 14yr old me tried my hand at them. This kit is rather detailed for a snap kit. However, even now and then these were very tough to assemble due to clunky, ill fitting parts! The body/bumpers/frame/chassis fitment especially is the stuff nightmares come from! I see why these were heavily marked down as most kids would have been scared off upon opening the box! Anyway, since this was rebuilt from the best parts of junk built ups I had, I did the best I could with some of the worst fitment examples. As usual, customization was done as several essential pieces were missing or went to other projects since originally built in 2007/8. Dodge Viper V10 and stuff like electronic fan and tat. New front and rear suspensions were used to lower the 4x4 height as much as possible. Dodge Charger exhaust with tips coming from intake stacks from an old dragster thing. Wheels/tires/brakes custom pieces from a Revell Calli' Wheels '67 Chevelle SS. Body was originally factory painted Tan and stripped with a 91% Alcohol & 9% Paint thinner mix. Exterior is Tamiya Clear Red over Rustoluem Silver, cleared with Pledge.
  14. Fresh off da' bench! From the Round 2 Hot Wheels of a 1990s era AMT tool. Never built this one before as I assumed it was a regurgitated 1960s era tool (those old AMT '32s left much to be desired with their molded in junk). Turns out its a nicely detailed piece like the 39 Chevy Wagon Rod (which I'm planning to get next!) This ones mostly box stock. Nice custom and resto mod styling that fits up my alley! Windshield and roof were a massive PTA to hold and line up. The front glass broke, but luckily in the middle where the windshield frame covers most of it up. At least on my example everything was slightly warped and twisted to a degree, which didn't help matters especially with the hood. These Hot Wheels kits come with stickers and waterslide decals. Normally I use the latter, but my kit had them crumpled up and all tore apart upon application. The stickers surprisingly look pretty good and the Metallic Green gives them a painted metallic sheen. Some additional decals were added from other places. Exterior is Tamiya TS-20 Metallic Green, cleared with Pldege.
  15. Fresh off 'da bench! Round 2 reissue of AMT Snap kit with drastic modifications. Opened up hood, added widebody parts, mirrors, and rear bumper from a spare MPC Supra with hood scoops from a Mopar thing. Hilux front grill was modded to fit trimmed and narrowed Supra front bumper. New headlights and tailights were added to replace the molded in junk. Things strut tower points, radiator, and supports were added in the engine bay. Turbocharged 1G-GEU comes direct from the MPC Supra, with an custom intake and intercooler setup. Parts of the molded in exhaust was used with the MPC Supra's. Front suspension comes from a scrap AMT '95 Supra, and the rear off a Revell '94 Mustang GT. Wheels come from the Revell California Wheels '57 Bel Air 150. Decals come from the MPC Supra and some Revell and Tamiya subjects. Exterior is Tamiya TS-92 Metallic Orange cleared with Pledge.
  16. Fresh off the workbench! Yep, another one of these Round 2 reissues of the Bomex/F&F Supra. Obviously, you all see this kit is one of my personal favorites. Not much in the way of major kitbashing. Wheels & tires were changed out with ones from the Revell Acura Integra and Revell MCM '02 Camaro SS. Chrome parts like valve cover and NOS bottles were sprayed with Tamiya Clear Blue. Exterior is Tamiya TS-97 Pearl Yellow, cleared with Pledge.
  17. Can a mod move this to the under glass section? Something must have happened and it got posted in the WIP section. Thanks!
  18. Anudda one of deze fresh off the workbench! From the recent Round 2 reissue! Front glass (at least on this one) was a massive PTA to put in and line up. Mine got fooked up but luckily I had a tinted one from a parts kit. The tinted front goes better with the lovers and stuff. LSA 6.2L swapped on a Bord Warner T56. Custom dual exhaust. Other parts coming from the recent Round 2 reissue of the Bomex/F&F Supra. Wheels and tires custom BBS units from the Revell Subraru Impreza WRX STi Exterior is a custom mixed Orange Crush Pearl, made using Rustoluem orange with a mist of Tamiya TS-97 Pearl Yellow. All cleared with Pledge.
  19. Fresh off da bench! From the AMT glue kit. Mostly OOP build. Fairly easy except for the front headlight buckets and lenses. This bit is what nightmares are made out of and was almost Monogram Bugatti EB-10 levels of just bad everything! Major PTA to get them to even stay fit and line up! Exterior is a custom Hugger Orange pearl using a Red basecoat coated with Tamiya Clear Pearl, followed by Tamiya Clear Orange on top. All cleared with Pledge.
  20. Tamiya kit fresh off 'da bench! Modifications are 6.2L 2014 Corvette LT V8 mated to a Borg-Warner T6. Vortech Supercharger and new headers were added. Dual exhaust system was made using remains of the stock exhaust and a Camaro ZL1. Rear bumper had cutouts to allow for the dual tips. Wheels and tires are the custom units from a Revell '09 Challenger, and Recaro seats from a Dodge Viper. Exterior is a Dark Metallic Green custom mixed using Tamiya Racing Blue and Clear Orange, all cleared with Pledge.
  21. Revell/Monogram #‎7494 fresh off 'da bench! Those side skirt/fender flair pieces were warped and torqued like mad! Required lots of careful bending (and filler to repair broken spots right in the centers). Modifications are Turbo setup, and wheels and tires from a Shelby Series 1. Exterior is Tamiya TS-97 Pearl Yellow, cleared with Pledge.
  22. ...or how to make Orangeade from moldy Oranges! Built from this issue of the old decrepit AMT 66 Mustang. "Special" features are custom drag slick tires that are wayyyyyyy to wide for this car, badly molded leftover parts from earlier issues, loads of flash, very ill fitting body parts, and the worlds saddest decal sheet (generic 1986 MUSTANG vanity plate and a I ❤️ Model Cars sticker) (Pic from the interwebs) The funky lookin' boxart car leaves much to be desired, but the newly parts like the seats, steering wheels, wheels/tires, and 427-ish motor are pretty decent. First course of action was ditching the 1960s half baked promo style frame. Was looking for a spare '67 to cut up it's engine bay and guts up, didn't have any but did locate a spare unmolested chassis from a AMT '68 GT500. Free of molded promo junk and was a perfect fit underneath the '66, but it was clear other modifications were needed as the inner front fender wells were too narrow for the custom wheels and the rears well were nothing at all. The fronts were replaced with wiiidddeee rear fender wells and the fronts in the rears from a old Revell '03 Dodge Viper frame. Front and rear suspensions were from a C6 Vette and a '96 Impala SS respectively, with doodads like sway bars, brakes, ect. coming from the spares bin. The Resto Rod 427 had it's tranny cut off and lent to another project. A spare 5.8 L from a AMT '94 Ford Lightning SVT was used, with the automatic swapped out with a Borg Warner T56 trans cut from a '93-02 Camaro/Firebird LT/LS1. The 5.8 was fitted with custom headers, custom intake, and a vortech supercharger setup. Exhaust system was modified from the '68 GT500 with mufflers and exhaust tips from a Corvette of some era. After hours of sanding and finessing of the body, the custom front and rear bumper pans and hood scoop were used. The custom rear bumper was used as-is, but the front bumper had the lower parts shaved off to match the look of the boxart car. These were dechromed and resprayed Rustoluem Bright Chrome. Rear spoiler from a '82 MPC Trans Am was used since it worked so well with the lines of the '66. Front grill was discarded and used mesh in place. Interior uses the Resto Rods seats and steering wheel, and the leftover 60s custom roll cage. The center console automatic stuff wouldn't mesh with the T56 so a six speed shifter was raided from the spares bin replacing the auto stick. Front headlights were missing, so spares were used from a :66 Chevy C-10 grille. Exterior is a custom mixed Orange Crush Pearl made using Rustoluem orange with a mist of Tamiya TS-97 Pearl Yellow and cleared with Pledge. Since I was 10, I had always wanted a custom Pearl Orange Mustang ever since having some in the Need for Speed Underground and Most Wanted games. Almost 20 years later, I got my wish.
  23. Since R2 has the 007 license (with the 73 Mustang and 70 Ford Interceptor to go by), I'd be a no brainer to repop the Austin Martin DB-6 and Toyota 2000GT vert. Unlike several other MPC molds that were butchered back and forth, those two were only issued once and should be intact.
  24. ^Agreed. Using a enamel/lacquer primer underneath will make it easier for the Purple/Super Clean to undo a botch job with a Tamiya final coat. PP/SC will weaken and take off any loose glue joints and filler work too, so be careful there. I don't use Tamiya primer myself (mainly due to high costs for such a small can) and hearing it can be a PTA to remove under any coats. I had dealt in restoring gluebombs where the bodies werepainted Testors/Rustoluem/Krylon (which came off like melted butter with PP/SC) but the primer layer (in those cases, probably Tamiya or Duplicolor) underneath was almost indestructible. 91% rubbing alcohol with a tiny swig of Testors jar paint thinner takes care of that pesky layer! Very rarely there be a situation where a primer coat would not only just be unaffected by PP/SC and 91% rubbing alcohol, but had real bad crazing that even ate into the body! I encountered this once with a built up '02 Camaro SS, the body painted this runny, bubbly Yellow and looked flat and very gritty due to heavy crazing. Stripping the yellow reveled a grey primer coat that was resistant to PP/SC. Put it in a 91% bath alcohol with touch of Testors paint thinner, 3 days the bath was grey but the body turned into light grey! The primer coat some dunderhead builder used was most likely a self etching type and was so strong, it indented itself into the plastic applied on! Quick wipe had no leftover pigments, but when sanding down everything was greyish white. Had to do 800grit sanding on most of the body parts followed by 1200, and luckily the True Value grey primer coat filled in the bad crazing from the old paintjob.
  25. Revell/Monogram #‎7360 (snap version) fresh off 'da bench! Snap kit similar to the glue versions, only with the motor and rear suspension becoming simplified blobs. Rear suspension was upgraded with the one from a old built '02 SS. 427 Big Block came off an old Revell '69 Corvette build, with the 93's Borg Warner T56 tranny cut to adapt and custom fuel injected setup. Added cowl induction scoop using leftover custom piece from an MPC Toyota Celica Supra. Adapted well to the stock hood with some filling and such. Wheels and tires are from an Aoshima Bomex RX7. Exterior replicates what GM calls "Dark Green Gray Metallic", custom mixed using Tamiya Racing Blue and Clear Orange and cleared with Pledge. This attempt came out much better than and the Midnight Purple turning out Maroon on the '93 Trans Am.
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